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Special Edition Build Off - Phony Abalone

Here is the top cross-section of my 1.75" x 3.5" maple board. It's a little dirty from storage...
20200427_200703.jpg

Do y'all think there is a specific grain orientation I should go for here? I imagine it's best to have the grain parallel to the width of the nut, but it will be so much easier to cut multiple nuts (for in case I need more practice...) utilizing the straight edges already present.

So sticking with the edges I got, and using the orientation you see to insert the strings, I am going to use the left side of the wood to make 2 nuts.

Question: Should I use the tighter grain (top left of wood) that has a more perpendicular alignment to the width of the nut (45 deg at worst), or should I use the wider grain (bottom left of wood) that has better alignment. Sure I can do both, and I might have to if I mess it up the first go around. But in a matter of durability, which is your preference?
 
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Hard to see the box I drew, but this is my opinion. :D
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Lol... it's funny you suggest that. Based on my recent work with the veneers, and thinking it would be bad to have the strings slotted such that they are parallel to the grain (potentially pressing the grain to split), that suggestion is the exact opposite of what I thought would be ideal.

Rotate your suggestion 90 deg to have the grain parallel to the width, and that's what I originally thought would be ideal.
 
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Lol... it's funny you suggest that. Based on my recent work with the veneers, and thinking it would be bad to have the strings slotted such that they are parallel to the grain (potentially pressing the grain to split), that suggestion is the exact opposite of what I thought would be ideal.

Rotate your suggestion 90 deg to have the grain parallel to the width, and that's what I originally thought would be ideal.
I'm worried since it's basically end grain, that it would be less likely to chip that way, but it's a crapshoot. :D
 
What's the third dimension? It's hard to tell since the photo is dead-on that one face. I would cut the nut such that the grain ran across the long length (perpendicular to the strings), not across the endgrain like that. It seems like a nut cut from endgrain will be likely to crack no matter the orientation.
 
What's the third dimension? It's hard to tell since the photo is dead-on that one face. I would cut the nut such that the grain ran across the long length (perpendicular to the strings), not across the endgrain like that. It seems like a nut cut from endgrain will be likely to crack no matter the orientation.
You're right I probably should cut it like this:
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Maple Board Drawing
Cut the board so that H = the width of the nut, 1 19/32" (might've typed the wrong dimension earlier). That makes sense to me, then use the 1 3/4" face as the side that gets slotted. I would actually aim a hair wide with the jigsaw and shape to the precise width later.

Nut Drawing
My idea is to drill out the slots along a pre-drawn radius, at or just above the desired string height, and probably while still a part of larger piece of wood. Precisely drilling a 1/2" x ~1 1/2" piece of wood is fickle business. Then again that may be better than sawing off the pictured image from its bottom off the larger piece... After the holes are drilled, I'll cut just above the dotted radius line with the jigsaw. Then sand it all to size and adjust string heights.

Drill Bit Diameter vs String Gauges
So first of all, yeah, it's gauges not guages lol... and as to the main point, I think they're close enough...

The drill hole diameters are based on the best I got.:
20200428_105249.jpg
 
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The past couple days it's been easier to find time for and focus on drawing rather than sawing or sanding. It took a few tries and lots of erasing; outlined in red is a design I like and can repeat consistently with the pictured stencils, as long as I can remember the tangential intersection points:
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Still can't decide if I want to actually keep the little dots. We'll see how clean I can cut a stencil of this design on blue tape...
 
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Update with pics

Two and a half full pages of algebra, converting decimals to the nearest 1/64th, and precise diagrams finally culminated in my first cut to get my nut. First I used my reverse tooth clean cut blade, but the teeth stopped just short of the depth of the wood, so it jumped a couple times. Switched to the "regular-toothed" clean cut blade, which had somewhere between 1/4" and 1/8" more cutting length, and I was able to get this mirror smooth, albeit not totally straight first cut:
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Second cut is expected to be a little tricky; I never cut 1/8" thick pieces off a larger bit of wood. I need to slice off where this line is drawn:
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Easy peasy. My clamps kept getting in the way, but I worked around them as best I could. First of 2 nut blanks:
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The rough tearout is from the reverse blade jumping due to too short a cutting length. Oh well, that's why I cut it big ;) Next step will be to map out the drill holes for my string slots on a 9.5 radius such that each string has an initial height of 1/16" off the fingerboard. Then if I need to reduce it, I will sand the bottom of the nut. My nut slot on the neck is flat, luckily, so that makes it easy.

In the meantime, I already had some work on the headstock penciled out, so here we go:
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Look back at my earlier pics to see how the headstock shape got altered. I made a minor mistake of making perpendicular cuts to the edge of the headstock before jigsawing the curved edge. I was thinking it would help, but the saw just jumped forward each time I reached one of the crosscuts. I should've slowed down when I reached em, or just not done it. :banghead: oh well, nothing some sanding can't fix. I then drilled a new tuner hole... kinda. I don't have a big enough drill bit, so I went with a few 1/4" holes. Lots more sanding to do:
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Update with pics

First, we'll pick up where we left: the nut. I had cut two blanks in preparation to drill the string slots. All that algebra was to decide exactly how to space them. I went with a compromise between equal spacing and equal centers, and adjusted the decimals I got from my calculations into the nearest 1/64 of an inch. In order to decrease the error associated with having my ruler slightly to the left or right from true, I decided it would make the most sense to keep it stationary as a marked my string centers. This meant that it would make the most sense to calculate the distance from the left edge of the nut (zero on the ruler) to each string center. My first draft had too much space at the edge and crammed . I adjusted my numbers and thought it looked good, so I marked along a straight line my string centers. Then I used one of those radius jigs I made to draw the radius intersecting with the horizontal line at the edges of the nut. I used a square edge (or maybe I just eyeballed it lol) to mark where the centers would line up with the radius when brought up to height. I did this for both blanks, and then drilled. Here is a pic of the crappy one:
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I tried my best to line up my drill bit so that it made a hole flush with the radius guideline; you know, so that the bottom of the string slots will actually follow the radius of the fingerboard. You'll notice the holes don't quite sit right on the guideline here, and that's why this is the crappy one.

The other one (funny enough the first one I did) turned out great, so I finished it. I took off the top with a coping saw, sanded the bottom flat, sanded down the thickness to fit nice and snug into the nut slot, cleaned up the corners, admired my work, and then I THREW IT IN THE F--KING TRASH! ...on accident. Right into some very wet coffee grounds I just threw away too. I was just throwing away the mis-sized nut I acquired for free along with some scrap, and I didn't realize my finished nut was still in my hand. :banghead::banghead::banghead::crying:

I tried saving it by putting it in my toaster oven on 200F for about an hour or so... it worked! The grain was raised, the tearout from drilling looked worse, and I think it shrunk a tiny bit, but I was still able to adjust the slots to size and clean it up nicely. I added some super glue to the slots for extra strength, and this is how it turned out:
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Pretty good for a first try! I left the nut a couple fingernails thick wider than the neck's nut slot, so I can you know, use my finger nail to pop the sucker out. Still nice and snug even with the slight shrinkage.

FYI I sanded the slots to size by alternating between using their drill bits with a single layer of sandpaper wrapped around and sandpaper just rolled up. I tried to make them follow the expected break angle the strings will have. Also, to keep a thin layer of super glue, I squirted just one drop on the A0 string (largest) slot and used a scrap piece of veneer to spread it between them all. I haven't treated any other part of the nut than the string slots. Any suggestions on how to treat the rest of it? Boiled linseed oil? Hopefully yes because I have some I need to use.
 
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Update with pics

Now the neck. I had to finish my radius sanding jig. I already used the jigsaw to freehand the actual radii, so all that was left was to cut them to a reasonable length of board and glue them together. Done:
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Well, hey! How the heck do you use that thing?! Well you just cut some sandpaper to the right width and then hold it together like this (warning, requires strong hands of a bassist to use for extended periods of time):
20200609_143854.jpg

My freehand attempt at getting the radii on this jig was close, but they both have a slight angle to their cuts. I glued them together such that what was supposed to be flat and radiused is now concave and radiused. Not perfect by any means, but it worked a lot better than just using my hands, or my flat sanding block. At least the curvature itself was accurate enough, so I just had to sand more and use more sand paper than I would otherwise because the edges of my jig were doing all the heavy lifting.

Before I started sanding the fingerboard to radius, I filled in all the remaining divots and imperfections with super glue. I laid it on thick, and then I let it dry for a couple days. Got everything as flat as I reasonably could. The pictures didn't quite turn out, so just wait a bit to see how uneven it still is :p

Onwards and upwards. Literally, to the head. I kept sanding away at that new tuner hole and stopped when the tuner fit, and then I continued just a little to make it a little more circular:
20200608_104757.jpg

Wait, what the heck is going on with the other tuner holes? Well, after getting the tuner peg to fit in the fresh hole, I wanted to see how it looked with all of them installed. That's when I realized that either I sanded down the original holes too big (getting off my old paint job) or I measured wrong and got the wrong size. My fix was to cut little planks of veneer and super glue them to the inside of the tuner holes. After I got the planks in place, I spread out a decent layer of super glue to fill in the gaps and permeate the veneer as much as possible. I did a half circle at a time, so that I could cut them flush more easily with my box cutter. I didn't want to push the planks away from the inside wall of the tuner hole while I cut them flush, so I need an edge to start on. Here is a closer look:
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Working with this much super glue was hard. I had all my fans and portable HEPA filter on, windows open, work held at arm's length, and I held my breath any time there was wet super glue. If I needed to breathe (like when I was blowing it dry) I would turn away and breathe in with my nose pressed against my shoulder. I rarely caught a whiff of the glue while I was working with it this way, and anytime I did, I quickly exhaled, got up and walked away for a breather as soon as I could.

If you look closely at the last two pictures, you can see where I filled the screw holes for the old tuners and the string bar. I know it's got a better name, but I'm at a loss for what you call the bit that pulls down the top 2 strings of a four-in-a-row bass to get a better break angle, so I'm calling it a string bar for now.
 
Update with pics

I'll spare you the details, but believe me that I did a LOT of sanding on the body. Most of my focus was getting the horns looking right (the taller one closer to me as I wear it gave me problems, visually) and getting a uniformly rounded edge:
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Then I made sure to get out all the tool marks I could find. I previously ate into the end-grain with my bastard file when I was taking off the original primer and sealant, so I wanted to smooth that out too:
20200608_105157.jpg

Another tough spot was evening out where the body meets the neck pocket on the deep cut I made for easier access to the fingerboard. I wanted to keep some wood there to keep the neck pocket as stable as possible; not too thick that it would be uncomfortable or unsightly and not too thin that it breaks off:
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At that point, the lowest hanging fruit was to flatten the new curves on the headstock:
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Then I sanded everything smooth. Note that all the pics I'm posting today (including on the two previous posts) show the neck/head/body already sanded to completion. If you want to see how they compare prior to sanding, look back to posts before today. The biggest difference you will find is on the neck and headstock; there are much fewer black marks, aka the previous paintjob hiding in the gouges from removing the paint prior to that. Here is the body and neck side by side. You will likely notice some flecking in the body. Unlike the neck, this flecking is part of the grain; it is most noticeable on the backside of the upper horn:
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Next up, The Paintjob, Volume 1!
 
Update with pics
The Paintjob, Volume 1

Before I could actually start painting, there were a few a preparations I had to do. I felt anxious finally getting ready to paint. Nervous about messing it up, but excited to finally do what I've been planning to do. Here comes the fun part

1. Mask off the neck pocket. I've failed to do that previously, so I know firsthand how annoying the consequences of painting the neck pocket can be.
2. Figure out where to paint it; I can't spray paint in or just outside my 1 bedroom apartment.
3. Figure out how to set it up to dry properly and where I can leave to fume.
4. Finally get to painting. More specifically, a base layer of black on everything.

Originally I wanted to use flame to char the grain, but I found that I don't have a hot enough source to do that with enough precision. I would just end up making everything dark and possibly warp my baby. I figured the best approach would be to paint everything black first, and then sand back just enough so that all that remains is the black paint in the grain: exactly where I want it. The trick is to go slow and soft enough to only remove what I want. I've gained enough practice by now, I believe I can do it. :thumbsup:

Step 1: Easy peasy, no pics. You'll just have to trust me that I masked over the neck pocket with blue tape. It was a little difficult to cleanly cut off the excess to get the tape flush on the edges. I should've put on a fresh blade on the box cutter.

Step 2: Found a spot. An undisclosed place where I could park my car; a covered space that'll keep direct sunlight and wind to a minimum. ;):ninja::whistle:

Step 3: This is where da pics at. I've seen plenty of examples of rigs to hold the body while painting, so this was a piece of cake:
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The tricky part was figuring out how to do the neck because I wanted to paint all of it, yet doing something similar to what I did with the body would cover some part of the neck. Finally I came up with a solution:
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That long blue thing is a stainless steel 18" ruler that I protected with painter's tape. I hand screwed in screws (slightly smaller diameter than the ones to hold the neck to the body as an attempt to preserve the screw holes from wear) and duct taped the ruler to the screws. And this is how it works:
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That's my keyboard stand with my handy dandy utility board sitting on top. There is just enough gap that even if the neck swings, it won't touch the board. With a slight adjustment, it also works with the body:
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Given how much heavier the body is than the neck, I needed something substantially sturdier, so I used some boards that I previously tried to salvage from a pedalboard I made. Between the screw heads shearing off during deconstruction and all the wood glue between them, I couldn't pry them apart to be used in any of my later iterations of pedalboards, but it works perfectly fine for this application. The body is pretty heavy on this makeshift seesaw, so I have to shift the board to favor the neck side AND have the neck on it to balance it; that's why I'm holding it in place in the picture.

My plan was to use this stand to pain the neck, and then set them both on it to dry. But where will the stand go? Since I don't have a garage or anything like that, and I barely use my car, I made a plan to let the pieces fume off a bit before keeping them in the trunk of my CR-V with the windows cracked. I'm not worried about a break-in, even though I park it on the street; my car is very dirty and unappealing to thieves :laugh:

Step 4:
After I got everything ready, I still had some waiting to do. Since I would be painting and basically letting it dry outside, the weather conditions had to be right. It was super humid here for weeks, with 100% humidity overnight consistently. Finally, this past Monday, a heat wave brought in very warm and vary dry air with Monday's overnight humidity level <30%! Time to paint. :bassist: So I load everything up, start heading to the painting location, realize I forgot the paint lol, come back to get it, say bye to the cats one more time, and then get to business.

My first location was too heavy with foot traffic, particularly of the variety that would probably tell me I shouldn't be painting here :bag:, so I went to another similar spot. Golden. :angel:

Before we get to the good stuff, a quick tangent: my plan for the pickguard was to use a repurposed carbon steel sheet I originally acquired to make arrowheads (whole other build story :wacky:), but since I rushed through cutting the outline with tinsnips and then let it sit while I figured everything else out for the bass, the would-be-pickguard became a bent rust-bucket with jagged edges. First thing I did at my painting locale was to remove as much rust as I could, flatten it, and then see what I could do about the jagged knife edges. Part of it rusted through and I figured that I would have to remove too much of the metal to get the edges flush. :sorry: Trash.

Now the fun part. Remember, I'm painting everything black and then sanding it back to leave only the grain and any other divots/depressions with the black paint; though the fingerboard will actually stay all black and topped with multiple layers of super glue. There was a slight wind, so I sprayed with the can closer to certain parts than I would've otherwise. There was also one particular passerby who seemed to be keeping a close eye on me (and had some authority to get me to leave), so I felt a little pressure to keep things speeding along and avoid a conflict. Here is the setup:
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Here is a closer look at some of the runs (will be sanded away):
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And here is how I put it in my trunk. I feared the pieces banging around in transport back home, so I oriented them in a way that made the most sense to me. I used a lot (probably not to some people) of duct tape to secure them to the board, and I used what I could to weigh down the stand for stabilization:
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I laughed at myself when I was attaching the little strips of duct tape to the upper screws on the neck in an attempt to keep it more steady. They quickly came apart in transit. Probably on the first bump. There are a lot of bumps between where I painted everything and where I parked my car at home. I drove very slowly and carefully and it paid off. No damage :hyper:

It's been so hot and dry that my nose has been bleeding. I think that's good enough for this base layer to finish drying. I plan to only use that location again on the weekends to avoid any more encounters. :ninja: I will be sanding back the black on Friday, and then applying color this weekend.

Stay tuned for The Paintjob, Volume 2, coming soon to a forum near you. (it's this one)