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SPECTOR® Club - Part 52

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My battery would always come loose why I fly.My solution...

DSCF7789_zpscc364b53.jpg

That's a killer idea! Also, did you do the shielding on the cavity cover yourself? I get some extraneous noise with the J pup dimed on my Euro and this could be a relatively simple solution.
 
As promised, here are the pics of my NS-2000/5 purchase.
All stock exterior:
CA08w.png


They even came with a brass nut! If you look closely, you can see where the residual sticker residue is left over from the fake crown decals I had to pull off.
They looked TERRIBLE! Any ideas as to what I should use to clean that gook off?? I'm going to have to condition the board a bit, too. It feels rather dry.
vcEYy.png


Side-by-side with my ReBop
8YQXa.png


I switched the knobs on my ReBop and NS-2000/5
iW3Sg.png

xtb4W.png


A previous owner lost the screw for the top strap button & used a 1.5" Robertson to secure it. -_- LUCKILY, I have the extra long screws that come with the Schaller straplocks, so I was able to fix this when I put the straplocks on. :)
 
This will clean that fretboard up!
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dunlop-guitar-fingerboard-conditioning-kit
As promised, here are the pics of my NS-2000/5 purchase.
All stock exterior:
CA08w.png


They even came with a brass nut! If you look closely, you can see where the residual sticker residue is left over from the fake crown decals I had to pull off.
They looked TERRIBLE! Any ideas as to what I should use to clean that gook off?? I'm going to have to condition the board a bit, too. It feels rather dry.
vcEYy.png


Side-by-side with my ReBop
8YQXa.png


I switched the knobs on my ReBop and NS-2000/5
iW3Sg.png

xtb4W.png


A previous owner lost the screw for the top strap button & used a 1.5" Robertson to secure it. -_- LUCKILY, I have the extra long screws that come with the Schaller straplocks, so I was able to fix this when I put the straplocks on. :)
 
If all else fails for cleaning fingerboards, I use VM&P Naptha that you get from the solvents section of any hardware store.

Its an excellent general all purpose cleaner, and is on the gentler end of the solvent spectrum. I know some people might be worried that it will harm the guitar, but Dan Erlewine and a but load of other luthiers have used it forever with no ill effects.

I use naptha all the time to get sticker residue off stuff. Make sure to properly dispose of your rags when you're done.
 
Any ideas as to what I should use to clean that gook off?? I'm going to have to condition the board a bit, too. It feels rather dry.

I have tried most fretboard conditioners and IMO, Howard Feed N Wax is by far the best. It will likely help with the residue as it does great with finger gunk.

Amazing stuff, recommended by more than a few luthiers, and available anywhere. It is $7-8 for a huge bottle at Home Depot for example.
 
They're really nice.
I've had the two prototypes here in my office for the past month (they arrived with the Blue Dream).

They're identical to the USA Coda's in basic shape, neck profile, scale length... They have EMG HZ J-pups and the TonePump Jr. Circuit. They have the Legend bridge and tuning machines.

So it's like a Legend and a Coda had a love-child... PJ Rubal's words... :D

I think they're really cool and the tops on them are really, really nice.

Available as either a 34" scale 4-string or 5-string, in Black Cherry Gloss, Transparent Black Gloss or Gloss Natural Stain.

Haha! That's pretty humorous what PJ said. :D Those two Codas are beautiful! I can see thousands of those being ordered. I believe this is one of the best business decisions Stu & PJ has made. The potential for putting a big hurt or atleast a big corner on the Jazz bass market is huge! I must say, I didn't expect this line of Coda's to look like the Deluxe line but the standard Coda. Are both going to be offered do you know? Thank you Patrick for the sneak peek! :bassist::hyper:
 
New import/export laws dictate that products be marked as to their country of origin.

Since this bass was ordered and made for a Spector Dealer in Korea, not too far from the Spector Korean Factory, Stuart did decide to hand write the "Made in the USA" instead of putting a sticker on it.

It's a new thing and you'll only see it on basses ordered by dealers overseas.

And as for why the handwriting seems shaky... the wood grain is in a different direction at that angle of the headstock... and it looks like he was in a hurry. He probably made the decision to sign that into the headstock as Que was there to pick it up for finishing.

That is Stuart's handwriting.

The cost of this bass... well... this is what Spectors cost overseas. They are far more expensive in Europe, Asia and South America than they are here. You have to think that this Korean Dealer had to play hundreds of dollars in tariff fees to get that into Korea. So that cost has been added to the price.

Cool! Thanks for the clarification on the Made in USA signing Patrick. First I've seen. Yeah when comparing the sigs one didn't seem to look the same.
 
As promised, here are the pics of my NS-2000/5 purchase.
All stock exterior:
CA08w.png


They even came with a brass nut! If you look closely, you can see where the residual sticker residue is left over from the fake crown decals I had to pull off.
They looked TERRIBLE! Any ideas as to what I should use to clean that gook off?? I'm going to have to condition the board a bit, too. It feels rather dry.
vcEYy.png


Side-by-side with my ReBop
8YQXa.png


I switched the knobs on my ReBop and NS-2000/5
iW3Sg.png

xtb4W.png


A previous owner lost the screw for the top strap button & used a 1.5" Robertson to secure it. -_- LUCKILY, I have the extra long screws that come with the Schaller straplocks, so I was able to fix this when I put the straplocks on. :)

Very nice condition! Yeah the NS-2000/4&5, NS-95 came stock with brass string nuts. You got a beauty! Congrats!
 
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