My NS20004 had a carved back - some people mistook itfor a Q4 which i believe may have a slab body.
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My NS20004 had a carved back - some people mistook itfor a Q4 which i believe may have a slab body.
The Q4 was a bolt-on, right?
This NS20005 is a neckthru. I haven't seen it in person, yet. Maybe the picks don't do the carving justice?
This NS20005 is a neckthru. I haven't seen it in person, yet. Maybe the picks don't do the carving justice?
I need to order new strings, as my DR Black Beauties are worn out. I'm probably going to order a new set, but can anyone suggest something with slightly muted highs but ever-present low-mids?
Well aware Brother, Digging the black....
It feels and sounds awesome, Just have to get in a different mindset to switch from the ns-2....
I was thinking back to some concerts I went to when I was a wee lad and remembered Duff McKagan using a black bass for the opening tune when I saw Guns N Roses live. I totally forgot he played an NS-2 for "it's so easy" so it was really cool seeing that again.
That tune is played drop D so he would switch to his white Fender after that but I think that was the only track he used that bass:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rhGAsmENpA
That tune is played drop D so he would switch to his white Fender after that but I think that was the only track he used that bass:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rhGAsmENpA
Huh - I don't recall that song being drop D on the record. Maybe the transcription book just glossed over that.
That was the first record I ever learned all the way through at the ripe 'ole age of 14. I still love playing Rocket Queen.
EDIT: That video sounds like Eb to me. I see Duff letting go of the neck at a lot of points for what would be "E" (they're 1/2 flat).
Great tone.
Huh - I don't recall that song being drop D on the record. Maybe the transcription book just glossed over that.
That was the first record I ever learned all the way through at the ripe 'ole age of 14. I still love playing Rocket Queen.
EDIT: That video sounds like Eb to me. I see Duff letting go of the neck at a lot of points for what would be "E" (they're 1/2 flat).
Great tone.
Before you updated your comment, I was in the process of dusting off my CD so I can give it a re-listen. I could have sworn that was drop D and since he uses the NS-2 just for that song, I thought that was what it was but I stand corrected. There must have been some reason he used that bass for that one song though so now I need to look into it further
Looks like a nice ns20005 asking price is a tad high. Great basses all maple bodies, upgradable.
This has been brought up a couple times, not sure why its not been changed, but they are aware...
ask for a picture from the bottom of the bass, the ns20004/5 series all have curved backs.
Monsterous. There's not too much better than a Spector going through an old GK 800RB.
Before you updated your comment, I was in the process of dusting off my CD so I can give it a re-listen. I could have sworn that was drop D and since he uses the NS-2 just for that song, I thought that was what it was but I stand corrected. There must have been some reason he used that bass for that one song though so now I need to look into it further
Yeah I had to go listen to it myself. I learned the record note for note based on the transcription book so I was surprised since I didn't remember a drop tune. That's not to say those books weren't wrong sometimes but I think that was known to be one of the better books. I'm sure it helped that the bass was very easy to hear.
And yeah awilkie84, GNR was 1/2 down on the whole record. I assume to facilitate vocals but who knows. Personally I hate 1/2 tuning - really messes with my ear.
Which reminds me., I filled in for a big cover band around here once (Infinity for those in the Chicago area who might know them) and they tuned flat. Their singer likes to kind of just call out songs and they don't really rehearse, so I just kind of came into the gig ready to go on what tunes they told me. So they decided on the spot to play "Talk Dirty to Me" and I knew it so no problem, right? Except they were playing it a position lower (so essentially starting on the "B" or 2nd fret of the main riff). When I heard I was off on the first few notes, I adjusted based on my ear, which landed me on the 1st fret instead of 2nd because my ear heard "Bb". Ugh. Thankfully I recovered within a bar or two, but damn, I don't want to be a bassist who f's up a Poison song. They played "Foreplay/Long Time" in A position instead of Bb too, which kind of bugged me. Ok end rant.
worshiprocker
Tonepump Junkie
- Aug 12, 2011
- 4,683
- 1,782
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Spector Basses
We downtune 1/2. We found that it was the perfect compromise for vocals and to allow our guitars to sound heavier. Most males sing better in F# or Ab. that is why a lot of genres only downtune 1/2
You know I should have put a caveat on my comment - I really mean I don't care for Eb for covers since I have a different pitch in my head for those songs.
For originals it really wouldn't matter because if the songs are written that way, then that's what they are.
And for some reason drop C# doesn't bug me even though it's essentially the flatted version of drop D. I guess I'm just weird.
For originals it really wouldn't matter because if the songs are written that way, then that's what they are.
And for some reason drop C# doesn't bug me even though it's essentially the flatted version of drop D. I guess I'm just weird.
So several months ago, Sam put me onto this SSD posted on Craigslist that he was interested in b/c he was on the hunt for a Czech SSD. I drove out met this guy from Dallas, GA who was selling a Czech SSD for $600. I show up wanting to know whether it has the rare Czech 9v preamp copy or not. So it does, which is awesome, and it's blue, which is great, and he even had the hardshell case, which was sweet. Then I see the headstock and there's a chip out of the top. No biggie. Then I sight the neck and you could launch arrows off it. Why? Because all of the relief had been taken out to accommodate the place where the fretboard had completely separated from the neck at the first fret when the headstock chip happened!!!!
So I'm completely disappointed because it's a hair away from being parted out and thrown away. Someone had tried to repair it, but had used Gorilla Glue (which expands when it dries) so it was... gross. Basically you could look inside this giant hole between the fretboard and the neck where all of this glue, dirt, and other shmutz had piled up.
But I knew I was holding something rare (not Brooklyn NS-1 rare, but rare enough for what it is) and that if I could get the NS-2A that I started with restored, I could probably get this restored.
So I talk him down in price by about $100, and walk off with the bass. I let Sam know I got it, but that it's gonna take time, money and a lot of skill to get it back to playability, never mind restored, and that I may have to part it out if my guy couldn't do it.
But he could. And did. Meticulously. Over I don't know how long it's been, but probably close to 4-5 months (Sam, please correct me on this if I'm off).
I got it back today and it is beautiful. He left the "love taps" like a small dent at the bottom if the body and the burnishing on the bridge, but the headstock and fret board and neck have been completely and totally restored. It's a weird blueburst color that fades to a dark, dark almost black shade of blue, so it was a tough color to match. He maintained the SSD logo perfectly. There is no way to tell unless you know exactly where to look that anything had ever happened to this bass. And the Czech copy of the US 9v circuit? Well he restored that as well - totally cleaned out all of the rusted solder joints and ends, replaced all of the wiring and cleaned and re-soldered the entire preamp (which is V-V-B-T, by the way). The EMGs are the originals and the logos are still in great shape as well. It sounds absolutely phenomenal. Somewhere between a trim pot Tone Pump that's dialed in perfectly (which I am never quite capable of doing, unfortunately) and the USA 9v circuit. The only "buts" that he advised were not putting anything heavier than a .110 on the E because the truss rod is just about out of room in terms of rotation and as long as it has been setting (months) the glue and wood are still in the process of bonding together/curing, so going anything lower than drop D would potentially compromise the repairs. Not a problem for me as I don't ever tune lower than that (that's what the 5 is for, for me). But otherwise, this rescue puppy Czech SSD is back to how it looked when it first went to whomever it went to. No serial# anywhere which is apparently common, but it's the real deal. He even did a fret job on it just to get it perfect. It's awesome. All original everything (yes, I do have the Schalller strap buttons but have Dunlops on it for now so I can use a regular strap).
I'm still waiting to get the "before" pictures from him so you guys can see it as it was, but you won't believe it when you do. Barrett Culpepper. He's the guy who owns Southeast Guitar Repair who does all of my bass stuff that I can't do on my own. He's an extraordinary talent. I couldn't afford the labor cost on it so we worked out some barter (me doing a lot of computer work, basically) deal for it, but he mostly wanted to tackle it to see if he could do it. For him, it was about the challenge, which I thought was pretty neat. And he did it. Patrick has always emphasized that with Spectors, it's important that you have a luthier that's familiar with the brand or is at least non-egotistical enough to go ask questions and research before tackling major repairs because the design dictates that every part be exactly where it is supposed to be or the instrument just will not play true (or at least, not for very long). Fortunately, Barrett is one of those luthiers.
I know I won't end up keeping this bass. It should really go to someone who is a collector or just a bigger Spector-head than me. Someone who will play it, but not take it on tour/rough it up. Oh and it's light! Can't be more than 9.5# if that much.
We never see these on the board very often, and especially not with the Czech 9v copy.
So I'm lucky enough to have a friend who is a genius luthier (and Sam! Cannot over-emphasize the awesomeness of Sam), otherwise this bass would have ended up as trash. It was that bad, and the owner/guy I bought it off of knew absolutely nothing about it. Zero.
Anyway, "after" pics are below, but as soon as I get the "before" ones, I'll throw them up. You won't believe it. And please forgive the photo quality; everyone in the world (including people who don't have cameras) takes better photos than I do.
So I'm completely disappointed because it's a hair away from being parted out and thrown away. Someone had tried to repair it, but had used Gorilla Glue (which expands when it dries) so it was... gross. Basically you could look inside this giant hole between the fretboard and the neck where all of this glue, dirt, and other shmutz had piled up.
But I knew I was holding something rare (not Brooklyn NS-1 rare, but rare enough for what it is) and that if I could get the NS-2A that I started with restored, I could probably get this restored.
So I talk him down in price by about $100, and walk off with the bass. I let Sam know I got it, but that it's gonna take time, money and a lot of skill to get it back to playability, never mind restored, and that I may have to part it out if my guy couldn't do it.
But he could. And did. Meticulously. Over I don't know how long it's been, but probably close to 4-5 months (Sam, please correct me on this if I'm off).
I got it back today and it is beautiful. He left the "love taps" like a small dent at the bottom if the body and the burnishing on the bridge, but the headstock and fret board and neck have been completely and totally restored. It's a weird blueburst color that fades to a dark, dark almost black shade of blue, so it was a tough color to match. He maintained the SSD logo perfectly. There is no way to tell unless you know exactly where to look that anything had ever happened to this bass. And the Czech copy of the US 9v circuit? Well he restored that as well - totally cleaned out all of the rusted solder joints and ends, replaced all of the wiring and cleaned and re-soldered the entire preamp (which is V-V-B-T, by the way). The EMGs are the originals and the logos are still in great shape as well. It sounds absolutely phenomenal. Somewhere between a trim pot Tone Pump that's dialed in perfectly (which I am never quite capable of doing, unfortunately) and the USA 9v circuit. The only "buts" that he advised were not putting anything heavier than a .110 on the E because the truss rod is just about out of room in terms of rotation and as long as it has been setting (months) the glue and wood are still in the process of bonding together/curing, so going anything lower than drop D would potentially compromise the repairs. Not a problem for me as I don't ever tune lower than that (that's what the 5 is for, for me). But otherwise, this rescue puppy Czech SSD is back to how it looked when it first went to whomever it went to. No serial# anywhere which is apparently common, but it's the real deal. He even did a fret job on it just to get it perfect. It's awesome. All original everything (yes, I do have the Schalller strap buttons but have Dunlops on it for now so I can use a regular strap).
I'm still waiting to get the "before" pictures from him so you guys can see it as it was, but you won't believe it when you do. Barrett Culpepper. He's the guy who owns Southeast Guitar Repair who does all of my bass stuff that I can't do on my own. He's an extraordinary talent. I couldn't afford the labor cost on it so we worked out some barter (me doing a lot of computer work, basically) deal for it, but he mostly wanted to tackle it to see if he could do it. For him, it was about the challenge, which I thought was pretty neat. And he did it. Patrick has always emphasized that with Spectors, it's important that you have a luthier that's familiar with the brand or is at least non-egotistical enough to go ask questions and research before tackling major repairs because the design dictates that every part be exactly where it is supposed to be or the instrument just will not play true (or at least, not for very long). Fortunately, Barrett is one of those luthiers.
I know I won't end up keeping this bass. It should really go to someone who is a collector or just a bigger Spector-head than me. Someone who will play it, but not take it on tour/rough it up. Oh and it's light! Can't be more than 9.5# if that much.
We never see these on the board very often, and especially not with the Czech 9v copy.
So I'm lucky enough to have a friend who is a genius luthier (and Sam! Cannot over-emphasize the awesomeness of Sam), otherwise this bass would have ended up as trash. It was that bad, and the owner/guy I bought it off of knew absolutely nothing about it. Zero.
Anyway, "after" pics are below, but as soon as I get the "before" ones, I'll throw them up. You won't believe it. And please forgive the photo quality; everyone in the world (including people who don't have cameras) takes better photos than I do.
So several months ago, Sam put me onto this SSD posted on Craigslist that he was interested in b/c he was on the hunt for a Czech SSD. I drove out met this guy from Dallas, GA who was selling a Czech SSD for $600. I show up wanting to know whether it has the rare Czech 9v preamp copy or not. So it does, which is awesome, and it's blue, which is great, and he even had the hardshell case, which was sweet. Then I see the headstock and there's a chip out of the top. No biggie. Then I sight the neck and you could launch arrows off it. Why? Because all of the relief had been taken out to accommodate the place where the fretboard had completely separated from the neck at the first fret when the headstock chip happened!!!!
So I'm completely disappointed because it's a hair away from being parted out and thrown away. Someone had tried to repair it, but had used Gorilla Glue (which expands when it dries) so it was... gross. Basically you could look inside this giant hole between the fretboard and the neck where all of this glue, dirt, and other shmutz had piled up.
But I knew I was holding something rare (not Brooklyn NS-1 rare, but rare enough for what it is) and that if I could get the NS-2A that I started with restored, I could probably get this restored.
So I talk him down in price by about $100, and walk off with the bass. I let Sam know I got it, but that it's gonna take time, money and a lot of skill to get it back to playability, never mind restored, and that I may have to part it out if my guy couldn't do it.
But he could. And did. Meticulously. Over I don't know how long it's been, but probably close to 4-5 months (Sam, please correct me on this if I'm off).
I got it back today and it is beautiful. He left the "love taps" like a small dent at the bottom if the body and the burnishing on the bridge, but the headstock and fret board and neck have been completely and totally restored. It's a weird blueburst color that fades to a dark, dark almost black shade of blue, so it was a tough color to match. He maintained the SSD logo perfectly. There is no way to tell unless you know exactly where to look that anything had ever happened to this bass. And the Czech copy of the US 9v circuit? Well he restored that as well - totally cleaned out all of the rusted solder joints and ends, replaced all of the wiring and cleaned and re-soldered the entire preamp (which is V-V-B-T, by the way). The EMGs are the originals and the logos are still in great shape as well. It sounds absolutely phenomenal. Somewhere between a trim pot Tone Pump that's dialed in perfectly (which I am never quite capable of doing, unfortunately) and the USA 9v circuit. The only "buts" that he advised were not putting anything heavier than a .110 on the E because the truss rod is just about out of room in terms of rotation and as long as it has been setting (months) the glue and wood are still in the process of bonding together/curing, so going anything lower than drop D would potentially compromise the repairs. Not a problem for me as I don't ever tune lower than that (that's what the 5 is for, for me). But otherwise, this rescue puppy Czech SSD is back to how it looked when it first went to whomever it went to. No serial# anywhere which is apparently common, but it's the real deal. He even did a fret job on it just to get it perfect. It's awesome. All original everything (yes, I do have the Schalller strap buttons but have Dunlops on it for now so I can use a regular strap).
I'm still waiting to get the "before" pictures from him so you guys can see it as it was, but you won't believe it when you do. Barrett Culpepper. He's the guy who owns Southeast Guitar Repair who does all of my bass stuff that I can't do on my own. He's an extraordinary talent. I couldn't afford the labor cost on it so we worked out some barter (me doing a lot of computer work, basically) deal for it, but he mostly wanted to tackle it to see if he could do it. For him, it was about the challenge, which I thought was pretty neat. And he did it. Patrick has always emphasized that with Spectors, it's important that you have a luthier that's familiar with the brand or is at least non-egotistical enough to go ask questions and research before tackling major repairs because the design dictates that every part be exactly where it is supposed to be or the instrument just will not play true (or at least, not for very long). Fortunately, Barrett is one of those luthiers.
I know I won't end up keeping this bass. It should really go to someone who is a collector or just a bigger Spector-head than me. Someone who will play it, but not take it on tour/rough it up. Oh and it's light! Can't be more than 9.5# if that much.
We never see these on the board very often, and especially not with the Czech 9v copy.
So I'm lucky enough to have a friend who is a genius luthier, otherwise this bass would have ended up as trash. It was that bad, and the owner/guy I bought it off of knew absolutely nothing about it. Zero.
Anyway, "after" pics are below, but as soon as I get the "before" ones, I'll throw them up. You won't believe it. And please forgive the photo quality; everyone in the world (including people who don't have cameras) takes better photos than I do.
Wow, I don't think I would be able to tell it was a repair job if you hadn't said so. I really like the color on it too. Congrats! It's really cool that you and your friend would undertake such a project to save her.
- Sep 20, 2008
- 3,369
- 38
- Disclosures
- Jim Dunlop USA, King Kong Cases, Golden Eagle Energy Drink
- Status
