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SPECTOR® Club - Part 57

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#561
TK4261 said:
Update: Been playing with the Spalt all weekend and I am in love with this Bass :D :D

Going to make a quick video this week too :cool:

033-3_zpse3d8d2ec.jpg
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I just never get tired of looking at that beaut. :bassist:
 
#562
I've always had good results using Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil to clean grungy fingerboards. It is (purported to be) pure lemon oil, and I use it lightly & sparingly - about 1 or 2 times a year at most, and I follow with a very light application of Dunlop conditioner.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#563
superdick2112 said:
I've always had good results using Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil to clean grungy fingerboards. It is (purported to be) pure lemon oil, and I use it lightly & sparingly - about 1 or 2 times a year at most, and I follow with a very light application of Dunlop conditioner.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
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It's really dry here in Southern California and so when I change strings (every 3 months or so) I also condition the fingerboards of my Pau Ferro fingerboard basses.

The Black Pearl has a gloss/sealed Maple fingerboard and so I can use the same polish and wax I use on the rest of the body for it.

The same with my fretless... it has a boat-epoxy sealed Rosewood fingerboard. I just wipe it down with a warm damp (no wet) cloth.

For the NS-2s and the NS-4 with the Pau Ferro I use the Dunlop 65 Cleaner/Prep and Conditioner.

I only use the Behlen Fingerboard Oil for the older basses that come through that I tech. Many have NEVER had their fingerboards conditioned.

And I use the Behlen Fingerboard Oil for the ENTIRE neck of my ARC6 electric guitar. Stuart built mine with a solid Honduran Rosewood neck (only a small handful were made with this option). That neck is amazing. I use the Behlen stuff on it because the Dunlop 65 doesn't soak in. It just sits on top of the wood. Which is oily. Really, really oily.

As for the FAQ section of the Spector Support site (Link Removed) I just updated that information... hopefully it isn't as confusing now.

The Oil finish stuff is still so tricky, it's hard to tell the difference between it and a Matte Poly finish.

Just remember, oil is never used on fingerboards. They are lightly stained... but the types of wood that are used for fingerboards actually doesn't need oil. They're oily naturally.
 
#564
superdick2112 said:
I've always had good results using Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil to clean grungy fingerboards. It is (purported to be) pure lemon oil, and I use it lightly & sparingly - about 1 or 2 times a year at most, and I follow with a very light application of Dunlop conditioner.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
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That's the other thing. The more humid the climate you live in, the less conditioning (the more cleaning) you'll have to do.

If I still lived in Savannah, Georgia with the 80-90% humidity that place has, I'd have to make sure the fingerboards didn't sweat and stayed dry.

Here in the desert called Southern California, I have to run a cool-air humidifier to keep my office at 50% humidity because often it's 20-40% here. And optimal humidity for guitar storage is 50%
 
#565
JPSBassist said:
Don't put the lemon oil on it.

There are three things I can recommend.

First, you can use the two Dunlop 65 products.
01 is a cleaner and prep
02 is a deep conditioner

For deeper conditioning I use a luthier product from Germany by a company called Behlen.

The product is Behlen B710-0001 Fingerboard Oil.

It's great stuff too.

I recommend the Dunlop stuff first. Then if after cleaning and treating you find you need additional conditioning, the Behlen stuff is available at Woodcraft stores and online.

I think you can get it at Amazon.com
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I use Dr. Duck's AxWax. It's an all-in-one cleaner/conditioner for use on all parts. The name and logo were so cool that I had to try it!
 
#566
JPSBassist said:
That's the other thing. The more humid the climate you live in, the less conditioning (the more cleaning) you'll have to do.

If I still lived in Savannah, Georgia with the 80-90% humidity that place has, I'd have to make sure the fingerboards didn't sweat and stayed dry.

Here in the desert called Southern California, I have to run a cool-air humidifier to keep my office at 50% humidity because often it's 20-40% here. And optimal humidity for guitar storage is 50%
Click to expand...

Good point - I'll bet Denver is almost as dry as SoCal. I always keep my basses in their cases when I'm not playing them, and every case has one of the Dunlop "clay jar" humidifiers tucked away inside.
 
#567
to properly humidify a bass, take a toddler size diaper or adult size depends and fill it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and propolyne glycol. place the bass in 200 gallon aquarium with the moistened diaper suspended above the bass. this is the only way I recommend maintaining constant moisture as the propolyne glycol acts as a humectant.
 
#570
j.kernodle said:
to properly humidify a bass, take a toddler size diaper or adult size depends and fill it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and propolyne glycol. place the bass in 200 gallon aquarium with the moistened diaper suspended above the bass. this is the only way I recommend maintaining constant moisture as the propolyne glycol acts as a humectant.
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I stick with spilling beer on mine to keep it hydrated;)

tomydacat said:
So im standing in my local music shop with fellow TBr Sethro and who walks in the door,, RVA no less.... Eddie Jackson..
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Nice:bassist::bassist:
 
#572
j.kernodle said:
to properly humidify a bass, take a toddler size diaper or adult size depends and fill it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and propolyne glycol. place the bass in 200 gallon aquarium with the moistened diaper suspended above the bass. this is the only way I recommend maintaining constant moisture as the propolyne glycol acts as a humectant.
Click to expand...

Does the diaper need to be suspended at any particular angle?

Also, do you mix both the distilled water in with the propolyne glycol at the same time or one after the other?
If one after the other, which first?

I assume there doesn't need to be any specific substrate in the 200 gallon aquarium? Or is a Terrarium better?

Can you draw a diagram for us please. This is good stuff.

Oh. And will this method help preserve freshly taxidermied small predatory animals such as badgers and wolverines?
 
#575
JPSBassist said:
Does the diaper need to be suspended at any particular angle?

Also, do you mix both the distilled water in with the propolyne glycol at the same time or one after the other?
If one after the other, which first?

I assume there doesn't need to be any specific substrate in the 200 gallon aquarium? Or is a Terrarium better?

Can you draw a diagram for us please. This is good stuff.

Oh. And will this method help preserve freshly taxidermied small predatory animals such as badgers and wolverines?
Click to expand...

I should have specified. terrarium. you don't want to submerge, that's just asking for damage.

if you're looking for substrate, I recommend granite with a high proportion of pink feldspar. other varieties can be gneiss, but you really want to spend the extra money and get the good schist.
 
#580
j.kernodle said:
I should have specified. terrarium. you don't want to submerge, that's just asking for damage.

if you're looking for substrate, I recommend granite with a high proportion of pink feldspar. other varieties can be gneiss, but you really want to spend the extra money and get the good schist.
Click to expand...

Pink feldspar? Now I think you are just making this up!:ninja:
 
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