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SPECTOR® Club - Part 71

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#662
Thanks all you guys for all the good wishes on the new bass. Hey Torn the green bass balances perfectly. No neck dive. It's also the lightest Spector I own. Probably 8.5 Lbs. The Forte is the heaviest at well over 9. On a side note I had forgotten how nice it feels to rest your thumb on the neck pickup in a J/J configuration.
 
#663
Mr.Bassie720 said:
Thanks all you guys for all the good wishes on the new bass. Hey Torn the green bass balances perfectly. No neck dive. It's also the lightest Spector I own. Probably 8.5 Lbs. The Forte is the heaviest at well over 9. On a side note I had forgotten how nice it feels to rest your thumb on the neck pickup in a J/J configuration.
Click to expand...

The neck pup is my default thumb position for any bass I play. It just works. :bassist:
 
#664
Mr.Bassie720 said:
Thanks all you guys for all the good wishes on the new bass. Hey Torn the green bass balances perfectly. No neck dive. It's also the lightest Spector I own. Probably 8.5 Lbs. The Forte is the heaviest at well over 9. On a side note I had forgotten how nice it feels to rest your thumb on the neck pickup in a J/J configuration.
Click to expand...

That's great, didn't know how much the bass needed the Spector bridge to help balance it...seen one with the badass bridge at the Guitar House last July, they look sexy man and with your green color it just fits a guy who has a passion for fantastic finishes!
 
#668
johnsonabq said:
Michael,
That looks like a tuning bridge a la Steinberger. Cool looking bass though. :D

4bass-v2.jpg
Click to expand...

Oh cool! But the Steinberger bridge isn't as slick:ninja:The bass is an EL...seen on FB.
 
#670
tomydacat said:
would a US bridge fit on a rebop?
Click to expand...

As it was pointed out, not without routing.

I developed a router template and routed my NS-2A for the USA Bridge.

I wouldn't recommend doing this without a nice router table, a good router template and experience with finishing. Being my NS-2A is gloss black, I simply applied black paint to the newly routed bridge area and had a friend with a paint booth add a new clear coat to the exiting clear. Blending the new and old. You can't tell that my NS-2A wasn't factory routed for that bridge.
 
#671
Awkward! But not really. I put this in the Steinberger Club.

I've had a few people outside and inside this club contact me through Spector Central is NS-2A, NS-2B and NS-2O truss rod bolt issues.

I decided to write up a little, "everything you need to know" article for SpectorCentral on the subject.

Here you go!

Let’s talk about Kramer-Era Spector Bass truss rods. There seems to be an issue with the tension bolt on these rods as time passes.

  1. The threads can become “frozen” over time, creating a “lock” between the bolt (threaded nut) and the truss rod.
  2. If this happens the amount of force needed to “break” the lock becomes more than the cast alloy bolt can handle; resulting in a bolt that often tears or shreds.
If this happens, don’t panic!

First think you need to do is STOP.

If you damage the bolt to the point that it no longer as a surface that allows for you to release the pressure from the truss rod, the difficulty in repair is increased 10-fold.

Here are some things you need to know about the Kramer-Era Spector Truss Rods:

  1. The rod is a 25.5” rod no longer made or supported by Spector.
  2. This is a single action rod with a FENDER 10-32 thread bolt (hole drilled through the center with a Philips-head style pattern but IS NOT a Philips head bolt. YOU CANNOT USE A PHILIPS HEAD DRIVER ON THESE BOLTS WITHOUT THE RISK OF STRIPPING THEM).
  3. You need a FENDER truss rod driver – StuMac and AllParts both sell them.
  4. You can replace these truss rods with a 25” double action (heavy duty) truss rod available from AllParts.
Since the bolt is a Fender 10-32 bolt if you can get the bolt-off the rod you can easily replace the bolt with a Fender “Bullet” style HEX KEY bolt or another Fender 10-32 bolt of the same style.

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IF YOUR BOLT IS FROZEN – use some penetrating lubricant and very carefully drop one-three drops *using an eye dropper with the opening of the truss rod bolt. Sit the bass upright (the neck towards the ceiling - hold the guitar where the headstock end is pointed straight-up and the butt of the bass is stilling on the floor).

Allow this to soak in for several hours and try moving the bolt.

DO NOT POUR lubricating oil into the opening of your guitar’s neck. Only use 1-3 drops directly INTO the hole in the truss rod bolt. Allow the oil to sit with the guitar in this position (easiest thing to do is simply place the guitar in an upright guitar stand).

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Once the bolt is off of the truss rod, simply affix the replacement bolt or replacement truss rod to complete this repair.

Here are links to the replacement truss bolts and truss rod I’d recommend using.

I replaced the entire truss rod from the original single action model to a new heavy-duty double action model several months ago. I then purchased a replacement bolt from StuMac and now I have the original rod repaired and available for use should I need it.

Bolts for these rods are 10/32 thread (Fender Style)

http://www.allparts.com/LT-0599-010-Truss-Rod-Nuts-for-Fender_p_2065.html <---Original Style Bolt

http://www.allparts.com/LT-1060-010-Bullet-Truss-Rod-Nuts_p_2132.html <---Recommended Replacement - This is a two-pack

Invalid Link Removed <---Single Replacement Bolt and much more affordable

http://www.allparts.com/LT-1419-000-25-Inch-Double-Action-Bass-Truss-Rod_p_2147.html <---Recommended Replacement Truss Rod

TOOLS ---------------------

Invalid Link Removed &#61663; <--- A maker of drivers specifically designed for the Fender cross-thread bolt

Invalid Link Removed &#61663; <--- Instructions for how to use the CruzTools Fender driver

My bench - working on truss rods...

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#674
JPSBassist said:
As it was pointed out, not without routing.

I developed a router template and routed my NS-2A for the USA Bridge.

I wouldn't recommend doing this without a nice router table, a good router template and experience with finishing. Being my NS-2A is gloss black, I simply applied black paint to the newly routed bridge area and had a friend with a paint booth add a new clear coat to the exiting clear. Blending the new and old. You can't tell that my NS-2A wasn't factory routed for that bridge.
Click to expand...
Thank you kind sir.. i think i have a bridge im getting this week for it so i will be ok..now to get a refin and some pots..
 
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