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SPECTOR® Club - Part 71

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#701
These guys are amazing to see and he was rocking a Spector!

TSOSpector_zpse6de1ac4.jpg
 
#705
LimaGuy said:
Trying to move this very soon.
And share the joy of this Bass with a fellow club member.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f126/spector-ns-4crfm-94-95-black-cherry-burst-burst-1030667/

Changed it up a bit. Now has a Spector Trim Tonepump installed and will be shipping with an Original Spector HSC. Price Drop and an additional club discount also applies.
Click to expand...

Now you're really tempting me to cross over to 4 string territory.. I've been wanting a 4 string Spector ever since I picked up my MM SUB 4 and that's a great price!
 
#708
awilkie84 said:
Going through this right now, except that my nut seized & stripped.

Is yours a single action? If so, take the truss nut off & put a new one on. If it's a dual action or the rod has limited play, loosen the truss rod to neutral, remove the string nut, slide the rod out & put in an All Parts replacement dual action rod (should be the 25" rod, but measure it to be sure).
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Yeah mine did the same thing, it was frozen in place. I tapped a T30 torx bit into it and backed it out with a 1/4" drive ratchet. The nut is out, but the rod is still in there pretty solid, is that bad?

Checked my local shop, they don't have any truss nuts with an M5 thread, they're all standard. Going to email Spector and order one from them to ensure I get the right part the first time, unless the single action rod comes out then I'd go ahead and upgrade it with an Allparts dual action.
 
#709
levis76 said:
Yeah mine did the same thing, it was frozen in place. I tapped a T30 torx bit into it and backed it out with a 1/4" drive ratchet. The nut is out, but the rod is still in there pretty solid, is that bad?

Checked my local shop, they don't have any truss nuts with an M5 thread, they're all standard. Going to email Spector and order one from them to ensure I get the right part the first time, unless the single action rod comes out then I'd go ahead and upgrade it with an Allparts dual action.
Click to expand...

One last bit of info on swapping the rod. If you put an Allparts rod in, you might need a spacer.

JPSBassist says he used a felt with 1 sticky side & wrapped it around the rod. Spector's stock rods are thicker than the Allparts rods but should work fine.
 
#711
Here's what the nut looked like after I got it out.

A nice shot of how badly the bottom was mushroomed when some gorilla had obviously cranked it waaay too tight.
10936311823_49681171e3_o.png


Another angle of the bottom.
10936181914_e3af4a5617_o.png


Aaaand the money shot! Stripped round and disfigured from the brutal removal procedure of tapping a long shafted T30 torx bit until the teeth bit into the screw and then slowly and carefully backed it out with a 1/4" drive ratchet.
10936040495_d64e462a99_o.png


Looks like I'm gonna have to try to order a nut from Spector. No luck on removing the truss rod itself. Hope that doesn't mean there's a problem with it. :eek:
 
#712
Worldeeeter said:
Capital News!
One hour ago, PJ e-mailed to inform me that Jimmy already re-leveled ALL of the frets above #19, which fixed the problem. They are overnighting my NS-4 directly to me, so I'll have it for this weekend's show. HURRAY!!!

Spector had a minor boo-boo, and they jumped on it, fixed it, and redeemed themselves in a big way. I knew there was a reason I love them!
Click to expand...

YES!:hyper::hyper::hyper:
 
#713
Patrick, thank you for sharing, this is really helpful! I've already ordered a couple of replacement bolts from StewMac after your article.

JPSBassist said:
Awkward! But not really. I put this in the Steinberger Club.

I've had a few people outside and inside this club contact me through Spector Central is NS-2A, NS-2B and NS-2O truss rod bolt issues.

I decided to write up a little, "everything you need to know" article for SpectorCentral on the subject.

Here you go!

Let’s talk about Kramer-Era Spector Bass truss rods. There seems to be an issue with the tension bolt on these rods as time passes.

  1. The threads can become “frozen” over time, creating a “lock” between the bolt (threaded nut) and the truss rod.
  2. If this happens the amount of force needed to “break” the lock becomes more than the cast alloy bolt can handle; resulting in a bolt that often tears or shreds.
If this happens, don’t panic!

First think you need to do is STOP.

If you damage the bolt to the point that it no longer as a surface that allows for you to release the pressure from the truss rod, the difficulty in repair is increased 10-fold.

Here are some things you need to know about the Kramer-Era Spector Truss Rods:

  1. The rod is a 25.5” rod no longer made or supported by Spector.
  2. This is a single action rod with a FENDER 10-32 thread bolt (hole drilled through the center with a Philips-head style pattern but IS NOT a Philips head bolt. YOU CANNOT USE A PHILIPS HEAD DRIVER ON THESE BOLTS WITHOUT THE RISK OF STRIPPING THEM).
  3. You need a FENDER truss rod driver – StuMac and AllParts both sell them.
  4. You can replace these truss rods with a 25” double action (heavy duty) truss rod available from AllParts.
Since the bolt is a Fender 10-32 bolt if you can get the bolt-off the rod you can easily replace the bolt with a Fender “Bullet” style HEX KEY bolt or another Fender 10-32 bolt of the same style.

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IF YOUR BOLT IS FROZEN – use some penetrating lubricant and very carefully drop one-three drops *using an eye dropper with the opening of the truss rod bolt. Sit the bass upright (the neck towards the ceiling - hold the guitar where the headstock end is pointed straight-up and the butt of the bass is stilling on the floor).

Allow this to soak in for several hours and try moving the bolt.

DO NOT POUR lubricating oil into the opening of your guitar’s neck. Only use 1-3 drops directly INTO the hole in the truss rod bolt. Allow the oil to sit with the guitar in this position (easiest thing to do is simply place the guitar in an upright guitar stand).

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Once the bolt is off of the truss rod, simply affix the replacement bolt or replacement truss rod to complete this repair.

Here are links to the replacement truss bolts and truss rod I’d recommend using.

I replaced the entire truss rod from the original single action model to a new heavy-duty double action model several months ago. I then purchased a replacement bolt from StuMac and now I have the original rod repaired and available for use should I need it.

Bolts for these rods are 10/32 thread (Fender Style)

http://www.allparts.com/LT-0599-010-Truss-Rod-Nuts-for-Fender_p_2065.html <---Original Style Bolt

http://www.allparts.com/LT-1060-010-Bullet-Truss-Rod-Nuts_p_2132.html <---Recommended Replacement - This is a two-pack

Invalid Link Removed <---Single Replacement Bolt and much more affordable

http://www.allparts.com/LT-1419-000-25-Inch-Double-Action-Bass-Truss-Rod_p_2147.html <---Recommended Replacement Truss Rod

TOOLS ---------------------

Invalid Link Removed &#61663; <--- A maker of drivers specifically designed for the Fender cross-thread bolt

Invalid Link Removed &#61663; <--- Instructions for how to use the CruzTools Fender driver

My bench - working on truss rods...

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Click to expand...
 
#714
Honestly, Spector are the best for a reason. :D Glad you hear you're getting your bass back before the show.

I recently have gotten rid of all the pedals that I used to use. Sold them all (Aside from my custom ones) and am really loving the Spector straight through tone. I keep a fuzz around just for the For Whom the Bell Tolls intro. It's so much stress off when performing, I don't have to worry about switching or which pedal has batteries or a loose connection. Anyone else?
 
#716
seventhframe said:
It is here.... it is finally here!

My labour of love. I hope you guys will have the time to listen to it and enjoy the music!

I appreciate everyone's comments and feedback throughout this process. Thank you!

https://trailight.bandcamp.com/


:bassist:
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Woa, that was some awesome stuff! I love the EQ and the clean guitar sound, of course the meaty bass tone :) Great job. Do you uhh, ship to Norway? :D
 
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