Spector Club - Part 10

[PhatBasstard]

So, anybody got any suggestions on that? I can't angle it down on the thread. I don't have files. My thumb is literally black & blue from trying to push it down on the thread.

Weird. Never had this problem on any Spectors I've owned when I've had to use a .130 in a pinch (D'Addario XL's, prefer .125 or .120 normally).

But I have run into this once or twice over the years with other bridges. Simply take a regular (not needle nosed) pliers and squeeze the string at the point it sits in the bridge slot. It should flatten it somewhat enough for you to fit it in. It's a much easier solution than filing your bridge.

 

[delucajohn2000]

Anyone need a Spector Hard Case for a 4string (Euro, ReBop, NS-2A etc...)
I am either looking to sell 1 or 2 of them or possibly trade +$ for a good shape Spector Gig Bag. PM me if interested to discuss a resonable offer. If interested I will send you photos.
Posting here before I do the Classified section.

Drat! I wish it was for a 5 string. I have a leather Spector gig bag for my Euro 5LX but was thinking about getting a case for it.

 

[delucajohn2000]

Hey Jarhead... Contact: [email protected]
AJ Yenser. He can custom cut you a new string nut for $20-25.00 and 2 day turn around.

Sorry, but I chuckle every time I see that e-mail address That is one you just can't ever forget.

 

[Rockin Mike]

Simply take a regular (not needle nosed) pliers and squeeze the string at the point it sits in the bridge slot.

That didn't kill the string?

The string doesn't have to sit all the way down in the notch. If a third of the diameter is in there that will keep it from slipping. You want the bottom of the string to sit tight on the bottom of the notch, though, no airspace under the string. For good vibration transfer.

 

[delucajohn2000]

Just put a set of Circle K balanced strings on my Euro 5 LX.
the G, D and A are actually lighter than a standard set, the E is about the same at .106 and the B is .142.
They have balanced sets in lots of sizes from very light to very heavy.
The E and the B are tapered so no bridge mods were necessary.
They sound very nice.

.142??? Man, what are you tuning down to? How are those Circle K strings? I have been meaning to try then but have been very happy with the DR Hi-beams. I was looking to change the strings on my Euro 5LX since it has the same strings left on it that the guy I bought it from had but if there are issues with Hi-Beams on a 5 string, I might look to the Circle K ones if they are tapered.

 

[nervous]

I have a leather Spector gig bag for my Euro 5LX but was thinking about getting a case for it.

PM sent

 

[PhatBasstard]

That didn't kill the string?

Nope. Why would it? It's just slightly altering the overall shape on the one little area, not completely changing the string in any way.

 

[PhatBasstard]

You want the bottom of the string to sit tight on the bottom of the notch, though, no airspace under the string. For good vibration transfer.

Most of the vibration transfer takes place at the witness point. The bridge saddle. What happens back here (anchor) is negligible in comparison.

 

[Rockin Mike]

Most of the vibration transfer takes place at the witness point. The bridge saddle. What happens back here (anchor) is negligible in comparison.

I'm talking about the notch in the saddle.

I'm not talking about the place that holds the ball end, called the "yoke". The yoke doesn't play in sound tranfsfer.

 

[Rockin Mike]

Nope. Why would it? It's just slightly altering the overall shape on the one little area, not completely changing the string in any way.

Well if I sever it with a wire cutters, that's affecting an even smaller area.

People bay big bucks for miniscule details in these pieces of wire because they matter. If I bought a set with a spot that had been mashed by a pliers, I would return it to the store as defective.

 

[Tracebassplayer]

But if it's after the nut ... which is what Jarrhead is asking about, it doesn't matter. As long as the string fits snug in the nut slot, it's good. Other wise they would not be able to be tapered after the nut. no?

 

[Rockin Mike]

.142??? Man, what are you tuning down to? How are those Circle K strings? I have been meaning to try then but have been very happy with the DR Hi-beams. I was looking to change the strings on my Euro 5LX since it has the same strings left on it that the guy I bought it from had but if there are issues with Hi-Beams on a 5 string, I might look to the Circle K ones if they are tapered.

The whole bass is tuned to a regular BEADG.

The whole purpose of getting an uncomfortably heavy bass with a diving neck shaped as thick as a telephone pole in 35" scale was as a platform for a Killer B. The .142 is an important part of that complete breakfast.

I tried out 4 different Euro 5's the day I bought this and picked the Birdseye Poplar top because it sounded clearer, sweeter and more agro than the others, even though it looks like somebody shat on it. I love this fugly thing because of the way it SOUNDS and regardless how ugly and uncomforable it is, you can have it when you pry it from my cold dead hands.

I don't know how something can sound both "clear and sweet" and "agro", but the Shat Fugly found a way.

I have an Ibanez with the fastest slimmest neck you could ever want to feel and you can have that one for a not-unfair amount of spending green. Sounds like an Ibanez (yawn).

 

[iceboxbass]

Drat! I wish it was for a 5 string. I have a leather Spector gig bag for my Euro 5LX but was thinking about getting a case for it.

Your 5 string should fit just fine. I had this conversation with PJ when I bought my NS-95. Here's a copy of what PJ said,

for over a year now, we have one standard case,
for our 4st, 5st, and 6st basses. I am sure it's not
wide enough for your bass as a 6st is a VERY tight fit

 

[Tracebassplayer]

I tried out 4 different Euro 5's the day I bought this and picked the Birdseye Poplar top because it sounded clearer, sweeter and more agro than the others, even though it looks like somebody shat on it. I love this fugly thing because of the way it SOUNDS and regardless how ugly and uncomforable it is, you can have it when you pry it from my cold dead hands.

I don't know how something can sound both "clear and sweet" and "agro", but the Shat Fugly found a way.

LOL I gotta see a pic of the "Shat Fugly" !!!
Please post asap...

 

[PhatBasstard]

I'm talking about the notch in the saddle.

I'm not talking about the place that holds the ball end, called the "yoke". The yoke doesn't play in sound tranfsfer.

OK. He's having problems at the yoke, not the saddle which is what I was addressing with him in the first place.

 

[Rockin Mike]

But if it's after the nut ... which is what Jarrhead is asking about, it doesn't matter. As long as the string fits snug in the nut slot, it's good. Other wise they would not be able to be tapered after the nut. no?

If I'm reading the thread right, he's talking about the point where the string goes over the bridge, not the nut.
The point where the string goes over the bridge saddle is very important for sound transfer.

The bridge saddle has a notch in it so the string won't move sideways. That notch has to be big enough to accomodate at least a third of the diameter of the string, and I'm saying the notch should be rounded on the bottom because if it's V-shaped, it won't get good contact with the underside of the string.

If you mash the string to make it fit into a too-small bridge saddle notch, I would bet you a dollar it harms the sound.

The nut is also important and the same idea applies to the shape of the nut notch.

 

[PhatBasstard]

Well if I sever it with a wire cutters, that's affecting an even smaller area.

People bay big bucks for miniscule details in these pieces of wire because they matter. If I bought a set with a spot that had been mashed by a pliers, I would return it to the store as defective.

OK, now you're reaching and I never told him to "mash" it. Just squeeze it enough that the overall shape changes a little to fit. I do pro setups and I've done this on occasion (Warwick bridges are notorious for this) and it works. No problem with the string (and I like clean, sustaining, zingy strings). Case closed.

 

[Tracebassplayer]

OOPS, my bad... sorry. You are correct. He did say bridge...
It doesn't make sense that the string would not fit on the bridge, the nut slot I can understand...
Let me graciously back the H$%% out of this conversation.... LOL

 

[delucajohn2000]

Your 5 string should fit just fine. I had this conversation with PJ when I bought my NS-95. Here's a copy of what PJ said,

for over a year now, we have one standard case,
for our 4st, 5st, and 6st basses. I am sure it's not
wide enough for your bass as a 6st is a VERY tight fit

Really? Hmm, that is interesting, thanks. I would think the different scale lengths between the 4's and 5's would make it need a different case but that is good to know. Maybe that explains why my Euro 5LX is very snug in the leather gig bag I have since it probably works for all models.

 

[PhatBasstard]

The whole bass is tuned to a regular BEADG.

The whole purpose of getting an uncomfortably heavy bass with a diving neck shaped as thick as a telephone pole in 35" scale was as a platform for a Killer B. The .142 is an important part of that complete breakfast.

I tried out 4 different Euro 5's the day I bought this and picked the Birdseye Poplar top because it sounded clearer, sweeter and more agro than the others, even though it looks like somebody shat on it. I love this fugly thing because of the way it SOUNDS and regardless how ugly and uncomforable it is, you can have it when you pry it from my cold dead hands.

I don't know how something can sound both "clear and sweet" and "agro", but the Shat Fugly found a way.

I have an Ibanez with the fastest slimmest neck you could ever want to feel and you can have that one for a not-unfair amount of spending green. Sounds like an Ibanez (yawn).

I agree. My Spector 6 has the Poplar Burl top and I'm not nuts about the way it looks...but it sure does sing.