• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Spector Club - Part 7

Status
Not open for further replies.
#382
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
#383
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
#384
I have an odd feeling that the bass in question (with no serial number) is a Euro model - usually the serial number and the 'crafted in Czech Republic' text is on the back of the headstock. Early Euro models maybe not - but this has MOP Spector fret inlays. There is no Stuart Spector signature on the back - which rules out US models...I really don't know. Maybe someone painted over it? I can't really see if there is a laminated top - there is no 'sandwiched' walnut slice to make me think it's a Euro 4LX.

I had an NS-2A, and traded it - but am seriously thinking about getting it back (because the offer is still open to get it back).

I have a Rebop 4DLX-FM. I love the Tonepump. By far the best bass I've every owned/played. It fits me. Are you going to keep your NS-2A as is, or do any upgrades IceBox? I'm thinking, if I get my NS-2A back, I'm going to put a gold Legend bridge in it, replace the hazlab copy pre with a tonepump, replace the knobs and the tuning heads...
 
#385
iceboxbass said:
Yes I do! The Kramer era Korean made NS-2A in the 80s serial numbers were put on the electronics cover, either inside or outside! :D
Click to expand...

Sorry, but Peledog is correct, this is a Euro4. It has the matte finish bridge (without logo), neck inlays, and solid wings with the Double-S headstock. It oddly, has older style Schaller Tuners with the anchor screw at 90 degrees from the body, whereas newer Schallers have the anchor screw to the bottom center of the tuner (if it is in a rack). I'm honestly not sure when that tuner design changed for Schaller.

Phat, back me up on this one... it's not unusual for early SSD Euro models to be lacking a serial number on the headstock, and it's not unusual for a gloss white Euro (of any age) to not have the SERIAL NUMBER on the headstock. But I've yet to see a Euro model since the Spector Trademark was back in place (1997) that the basses didn't have the "Precision Crafted Under License in the Czech Republic" and Stuart's stamped signature.

So my best guess, especially looking at the color, which is a little different than our typical "Amber" finish (but this could be the photos) is that this bass was refinished at some point.

As long as the neck/truss rod is OK, it looks like a great player. These solid-wing Euro Models are favored by some... to others this or the LX (sandwich wing) models are equally appealing.

If it goes for under $1000... someone's getting a nice guitar at a decent price.

It does bother me that the truss rod cover is missing. Another sign that perhaps it was refinished. Stuff gets lost when you take it off and leave it off for a while sometimes.
 
#386
peledog said:
I have an odd feeling that the bass in question (with no serial number) is a Euro model - usually the serial number and the 'crafted in Czech Republic' text is on the back of the headstock. Early Euro models maybe not - but this has MOP Spector fret inlays. There is no Stuart Spector signature on the back - which rules out US models...I really don't know. Maybe someone painted over it? I can't really see if there is a laminated top - there is no 'sandwiched' walnut slice to make me think it's a Euro 4LX.

I had an NS-2A, and traded it - but am seriously thinking about getting it back (because the offer is still open to get it back).

I have a Rebop 4DLX-FM. I love the Tonepump. By far the best bass I've every owned/played. It fits me. Are you going to keep your NS-2A as is, or do any upgrades IceBox? I'm thinking, if I get my NS-2A back, I'm going to put a gold Legend bridge in it, replace the hazlab copy pre with a tonepump, replace the knobs and the tuning heads...
Click to expand...

Peledog: Here's the answer to your question about serial #s and signature;

Import Instruments
These instruments were made in Korea.

Earlier models of these Kramer import guitars and basses did not have a serial number. Later models had a four digit serial number located on the back plastic electronics cover. Each serial number started with "NS".

MODEL DETAILS YEARS
PRODUCED TOTAL
PRODUCTION ORIGINAL
LIST
NS-2A(TM)
NS-Curved Body(TM)
Neck-Thru construction
Pearl dot neck inlays
Black hardware
Passive "SPECTOR®" branded P/J pickups.
Korean NS-2A(TM) circuit, a copy of the famous SPECTOR®USA NS-2(TM) 9v circuit
1987-1990 7,000 $1,100.00

As that's the way my serial # is located.

I'm planning 1)replace the nut with a brass nut, 2) definitely replace the bridge, tuners, control knobs with all gold ones! 3) replace preAmp with a more updated active haven't decided which one yet. Still reading about the differences. I'm wanting to do the same with my Legend 4 classic. Also my Rebop 5 but I know what PUs for it...EMG-40DCs! On my Legend too.

What color was your NS-2A?why did you sell it?
Cheers peledog!
 
#387
JPSBassist said:
Sorry, but Peledog is correct, this is a Euro4. It has the matte finish bridge (without logo), neck inlays, and solid wings with the Double-S headstock. It oddly, has older style Schaller Tuners with the anchor screw at 90 degrees from the body, whereas newer Schallers have the anchor screw to the bottom center of the tuner (if it is in a rack). I'm honestly not sure when that tuner design changed for Schaller.

Phat, back me up on this one... it's not unusual for early SSD Euro models to be lacking a serial number on the headstock, and it's not unusual for a gloss white Euro (of any age) to not have the SERIAL NUMBER on the headstock. But I've yet to see a Euro model since the Spector Trademark was back in place (1997) that the basses didn't have the "Precision Crafted Under License in the Czech Republic" and Stuart's stamped signature.

So my best guess, especially looking at the color, which is a little different than our typical "Amber" finish (but this could be the photos) is that this bass was refinished at some point.

As long as the neck/truss rod is OK, it looks like a great player. These solid-wing Euro Models are favored by some... to others this or the LX (sandwich wing) models are equally appealing.

If it goes for under $1000... someone's getting a nice guitar at a decent price.

It does bother me that the truss rod cover is missing. Another sign that perhaps it was refinished. Stuff gets lost when you take it off and leave it off for a while sometimes.
Click to expand...

Oh well...did the best I could from an iPhone point of view. ;D
Thought maybe the crowns were stickers that are being put on so freely these days. Thanks JP!
 
#388
JPSBassist said:
Sorry, but Peledog is correct, this is a Euro4. It has the matte finish bridge (without logo), neck inlays, and solid wings with the Double-S headstock. It oddly, has older style Schaller Tuners with the anchor screw at 90 degrees from the body, whereas newer Schallers have the anchor screw to the bottom center of the tuner (if it is in a rack). I'm honestly not sure when that tuner design changed for Schaller.

Phat, back me up on this one... it's not unusual for early SSD Euro models to be lacking a serial number on the headstock, and it's not unusual for a gloss white Euro (of any age) to not have the SERIAL NUMBER on the headstock. But I've yet to see a Euro model since the Spector Trademark was back in place (1997) that the basses didn't have the "Precision Crafted Under License in the Czech Republic" and Stuart's stamped signature.

So my best guess, especially looking at the color, which is a little different than our typical "Amber" finish (but this could be the photos) is that this bass was refinished at some point.

As long as the neck/truss rod is OK, it looks like a great player. These solid-wing Euro Models are favored by some... to others this or the LX (sandwich wing) models are equally appealing.

If it goes for under $1000... someone's getting a nice guitar at a decent price.

It does bother me that the truss rod cover is missing. Another sign that perhaps it was refinished. Stuff gets lost when you take it off and leave it off for a while sometimes.
Click to expand...
Bridge issue aside, I actually believe this to be a '99-'01 NS4CRFM.

The reason is this isn't the first one of those I've seen with nothing on the back of the headstock. I've also seen a couple with the "Crafted in the Czech Republic....." blurb on the back of the headstock, but no serial. Usually it's stamped in the wood in the cavity.

A refinish is still possible also as, if you look closely, it appears lightly smudged where the "...Czech Republic..." blurb would be.

I've had this on my "Watch List" since it came up a couple days ago.

I've asked the seller to either post a pic or send me an email if there is a serial stamped in the cavity.
 
#389
iceboxbass said:
Peledog: Here's the answer to your question about serial #s and signature;

Import Instruments
These instruments were made in Korea.

Earlier models of these Kramer import guitars and basses did not have a serial number. Later models had a four digit serial number located on the back plastic electronics cover. Each serial number started with "NS".

MODEL DETAILS YEARS
PRODUCED TOTAL
PRODUCTION ORIGINAL
LIST
NS-2A(TM)
NS-Curved Body(TM)
Neck-Thru construction
Pearl dot neck inlays
Black hardware
Passive "SPECTOR®" branded P/J pickups.
Korean NS-2A(TM) circuit, a copy of the famous SPECTOR®USA NS-2(TM) 9v circuit
1987-1990 7,000 $1,100.00

As that's the way my serial # is located.

I'm planning 1)replace the nut with a brass nut, 2) definitely replace the bridge, tuners, control knobs with all gold ones! 3) replace preAmp with a more updated active haven't decided which one yet. Still reading about the differences. I'm wanting to do the same with my Legend 4 classic. Also my Rebop 5 but I know what PUs for it...EMG-40DCs! On my Legend too.

What color was your NS-2A?why did you sell it?
Cheers peledog!
Click to expand...

Well if you ever change out that NS2A preamp make sure you hit me up. I put one in my NS4CRFM and I love the sound of it!!
 
#390
iceboxbass said:
I'm planning 1)replace the nut with a brass nut, 2) definitely replace the bridge, tuners, control knobs with all gold ones! 3) replace preAmp with a more updated active haven't decided which one yet. Still reading about the differences. I'm wanting to do the same with my Legend 4 classic. Also my Rebop 5 but I know what PUs for it...EMG-40DCs! On my Legend too.

What color was your NS-2A?why did you sell it?
Cheers peledog!
Click to expand...
As far as the Haz copy in the NS2A's:
Update to active EMG's first.
You'll probably find that replacing the Haz copy pre is a waste after that (and later be sorry you did).
 
#392
The Haz is great, and while having EMG pickups with it will get you right to the spector sound, it is still an awesome onboard pre, even without active pickups. I got ahold of one for cheap and have been trying it with all sorts of pickups and i love its warmth.

I need to thin my herd so I can get myself an NS-2A :D
 
#393
PhatBasstard said:
I've also seen a couple with the "Crafted in the Czech Republic....." blurb on the back of the headstock, but no serial.
Click to expand...
As if on cue....

Well, he's at it again:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Spector-Euro-4-LX-Bass-Guitar-/270674287777?pt=Guitar&hash=item3f0571dca1
Same seller with another Czech of some kind.
Again, no serial, but it does have the "...made in Czech Republic..." blurb this time.
He's calling it a "Euro LX", but it too has the old style Schallers.
Something is weird here. :eyebrow:
 
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
#394
PhatBasstard said:
Hmmmm....
Well, he's at it again:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Spector-Euro-4-LX-Bass-Guitar-/270674287777?pt=Guitar&hash=item3f0571dca1
Same seller with another Czech of some kind.
Again, no serial, but it does have the "...made in Czech Republic..." blurb this time.
He's calling it a "Euro LX", but it too has the old style Schallers.
Something is weird here. :eyebrow:
Click to expand...

Weird. This one doesn't seem to have the 'sandwich' wings and the truss rod cover is also missing.

I do recall seeing a website where you can buy 'Spectors' wholesale from China. Euro LX models too. Don't have a link but it's in another thread somewhere.

Or it could be a late model nscr4fm like you said.
 
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
#396
iceboxbass said:
I'm planning 1)replace the nut with a brass nut, 2) definitely replace the bridge, tuners, control knobs with all gold ones! 3) replace preAmp with a more updated active haven't decided which one yet. Still reading about the differences. I'm wanting to do the same with my Legend 4 classic. Also my Rebop 5 but I know what PUs for it...EMG-40DCs! On my Legend too.

What color was your NS-2A?why did you sell it?
Cheers peledog!
Click to expand...

Well, I traded it for a Ray34, but it turns out to waaaay too heavy. So I'm taking it back and getting my NS-2A back. It's black gloss. Trying to get a sound for some new songs we're doing - I thought the SBMM Ray34 would do the trick - it sounds great - but, as I said, it's too heavy - and I really love my Rebop.

I might put some EMG active P/Js on the NS-2A and see how the haz copy pre works. But yeah, I'm trying to make my NS-2A look like a Kramer era NS-2, LOL! The thing is, the Schaller tuners will be the most expensive thing to get. Knobs, bridge, pickups and the Tonepump too, just in case.
 
#397
PhatBasstard said:
As far as the Haz copy in the NS2A's:
Update to active EMG's first.
You'll probably find that replacing the Haz copy pre is a waste after that (and later be sorry you did).
Click to expand...

Ok Phat...I'll take that advise under serious thought coming from you especially. Thank you!
 
#398
Basstovsky said:
The Haz is great, and while having EMG pickups with it will get you right to the spector sound, it is still an awesome onboard pre, even without active pickups. I got ahold of one for cheap and have been trying it with all sorts of pickups and i love its warmth.

I need to thin my herd so I can get myself an NS-2A :D
Click to expand...

Well then...if three agree about the Hazlab pre then i better keep it in there. I'll start looking for a decent priced EMG PJ pickup. Any suggestions for best prices guys? Thanks!
 
#399
iceboxbass said:
Well then...if three agree about the Hazlab pre then i better keep it in there. I'll start looking for a decent priced EMG PJ pickup. Any suggestions for best prices guys? Thanks!
Click to expand...

4 agree... the only reason I dumped my Haz copy from my NS-2A was that it was damaged and didn't work correctly.

When dropping in active EMGs remember that the Haz copy (it's Korean-made and should say "Kramer" on the side that faces down in the control cavity) is designed for passive pups. There is no place on that board for you to connect your power leads to your pups. And the board doesn't push enough power through to power them. You have to bi-pass the board for power and wire the pups into the battery leads. I've seen this done from the power lead off the 1/4 input jack as well.

It will sound closer to a USA NS-2 than you would believe. I'd try not to dump that tone circuit if you can.

I had to replace mine. And I did so with a new TonePump.
 
#400
JPSBassist said:
You have to bi-pass the board for power and wire the pups into the battery leads. I've seen this done from the power lead off the 1/4 input jack as well.
Click to expand...

If you're not sure, simply re-attach the braids and center wires (white usually) to the pre the way the passive pickups were.
The EMG site has wiring diagrams for their pickups that will show you how to wire up the red wires to the battery.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back