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Spector Club Pt. 3 (Insert Clever Title Here)

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All my Spectors (and most other basses), past and present, have had the Schallers (where the nubs/strap buttons on the body of the bass slide/click into the horseshoe clasp on the strap) and have NEVER had one come out unwanted.

However, ALWAYS have the openning of the horseshoe clasp facing away from the end of the strap (i.e. facing upwards when in playing position) when you tighten the nut. That way, locked or not, gravity is keeping the strap buttons in there. This is the proper settup for these.
That lock is only to hold the strap button secure when not held by weight or gravity inside the clasp, not the weight of the bass itself.

I'm guessing some of you have these sideways or even upside down. I'm sure the weight of the bass bouncing up and down might cause these to come dislodged/unlocked at some point.

Anyway other than this is incorrect....
StrapLock1.jpg

....and asking for trouble.
 
All my Spectors (and most other basses), past and present, have had the Schallers (where the nubs/strap buttons on the body of the bass slide/click into the horseshoe clasp on the strap) and have NEVER had one come out unwanted.

However, ALWAYS have the openning of the horseshoe clasp facing away from the end of the strap (i.e. facing upwards when in playing position) when you tighten the nut. That way, locked or not, gravity is keeping the strap buttons in there. This is the proper settup for these.
That lock is only to hold the strap button secure when not held by weight or gravity inside the clasp, not the weight of the bass itself.

I'm guessing some of you have these sideways or even upside down. I'm sure the weight of the bass bouncing up and down might cause these to come dislodged/unlocked at some point.

Anyway other than this is incorrect:
StrapLock1.jpg

Funny you mention that, but on my original NS2A I did exactly the opposite - they were upside down! :hiding: And I never had a problem. Still, you're way (and the way I do it now), is better. :)
 
Funny you mention that, but on my original NS2A I did exactly the opposite - they were upside down! :hiding: And I never had a problem. Still, your way (and the way I do it now), is better. :)
FWIW, I've owned a couple NS2A's through the years, and neither was nearly as heavy as my USA or Euro NS2's or NS5's.

Are the Dunlop's the one's where the rod goes into the shaft of the strap button and has a pin on the top/opposite side you have to pull to get them in/locked or out/unlocked? If so, I had a set of those years ago and had them pull out on several occasions because I thought they were locked in when they weren't. Plus I didn't like the design as the torque on the strap button was more towards the top end, making damage to the body wood much more likely if one ever got yanked too hard and came out. IMHO the Schaller, if used correctly, is a much better, safer design.
 
All my Spectors (and most other basses), past and present, have had the Schallers (where the nubs/strap buttons on the body of the bass slide/click into the horseshoe clasp on the strap) and have NEVER had one come out unwanted.

However, ALWAYS have the openning of the horseshoe clasp facing away from the end of the strap (i.e. facing upwards when in playing position) when you tighten the nut. That way, locked or not, gravity is keeping the strap buttons in there. This is the proper settup for these.
That lock is only to hold the strap button secure when not held by weight or gravity inside the clasp, not the weight of the bass itself.

+1

I put some Dunlops on my Legend 6, and prefer the Schallers in every way. The Schallers hold the bass by it's buttons, Dunlops only have a small metal pin. Either way, you should give your straps a good jiggle to make sure they're attached.
 
FWIW, I've owned a couple NS2A's through the years, and neither was nearly as heavy as my USA or Euro NS2's or NS5's.

Are the Dunlop's the one's where the rod goes into the shaft of the strap button and has a pin on the top/opposite side you have to pull to get them in/locked or out/unlocked? If so, I had a set of those years ago and had them pull out on several occasions because I thought they were locked in when they weren't. Plus I didn't like the design as the torque on the strap button was more towards the top end, making damage to the body wood much more likely if one ever got yanked too hard and came out. IMHO the Schaller, if used correctly, is a much better, safer design.

The last NS2A I had was only slightly lighter than my Euro. I want to say 1/4 lb?
 
Spector Euro LX with Aguilar OBP-1 preamp. So far, so good; really loving the playability and the sound. Number, please. Also, if anyone can suggest a good preamp that would be a relatively straight replacement, I'd appreciate it. I love the sound of the Aggie, just not crazy about the "boost only" thing.
 

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Spector Euro LX with Aguilar OBP-1 preamp. So far, so good; really loving the playability and the sound. Number, please. Also, if anyone can suggest a good preamp that would be a relatively straight replacement, I'd appreciate it. I love the sound of the Aggie, just not crazy about the "boost only" thing.

My favorite color :bassist: I'd go with an EMG BTS if I had a Euro.
 
Spector Euro LX with Aguilar OBP-1 preamp. So far, so good; really loving the playability and the sound. Number, please. Also, if anyone can suggest a good preamp that would be a relatively straight replacement, I'd appreciate it. I love the sound of the Aggie, just not crazy about the "boost only" thing.

I have John East U-Retro pre amps fitted in all my Spectors and they are the cream.

Check out one of my installs Invalid Link Removed

There's also a guy with a redwood NS5 with a U-Retro here

They're becoming very popular on Spectors in the UK now.
 
I have John East U-Retro pre amps fitted in all my Spectors and they are the cream.

Check out one of my installs Invalid Link Removed

There's also a guy with a redwood NS5 with a U-Retro here

They're becoming very popular on Spectors in the UK now.
Whether US or Euro, couldn't those of us with 4 hole configurations get one wired with 4 dedicated knobs instead of 2 + 1 concentric. Does he sell in that configuration?
 
Thanks. I'm starting to like it so much, I'm thinking about selling a couple of basses that don't see any action to fund a US NS-2. Please tell me I'm not crazy...

You're not the least bit crazy. An old school (more like timeless, really) Brooklyn NS2 will be eventually mine someday. Don't hesitate to check out an early millennium Czech made NSCR as well if you ever get the chance. Outstanding basses.
 
Whether US or Euro, couldn't those of us with 4 hole configurations get one wired with 4 dedicated knobs instead of 2 + 1 concentric. Does he sell in that configuration?

Yes, indeed.:hyper: I have one. :bassist: If you ask for a Sean Nicholas Special U-Retro, it comes with separate volume and blend knobs and has the toggles removed as they are totally redundant on our beloved Spectors.

It's also cool to mix knob colours, black/gold mix is very nice.
 
Yes, indeed.:hyper: I have one. :bassist: If you ask for a Sean Nicholas Special U-Retro, it comes with separate volume and blend knobs and has the toggles removed as they are totally redundant on our beloved Spectors.

It's also cool to mix knob colours, black/gold mix is very nice.
I have an OBP-1 in my NS2CR. Sounds great but I hate the boost only. This might be one of my options.
 
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