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Spector Club Pt. 4 (Insert Clever Title Here)

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The only NS2A's I've seen have said that on the control cover. So that's why I was curious. How much would you say they're worth then? $400-$500?

I'd say that's a fair price for an NS2A although I've seen steals of between $200 & $300 on occasion if you don't mind the stalking/waiting game. I paid arond $500 for each of mine. One of them was already hooked up with active EMGs and the other was stock so another $170 was invested for the EMGs on that one. Like I said, you can get better deals than what I paid but I've got two seriously playable four bangers that get alot of attention from me and I couldn't be happier. I think I may need another. YMMV of course.
 
I'd say that's a fair price for an NS2A although I've seen steals of between $200 & $300 on occasion if you don't mind the stalking/waiting game. I paid arond $500 for each of mine. One of them was already hooked up with active EMGs and the other was stock so another $170 was invested for the EMGs on that one. Like I said, you can get better deals than what I paid but I've got two seriously playable four bangers that get alot of attention from me and I couldn't be happier. I think I may need another. YMMV of course.

I think the one I'm looking at is a bit overpriced, so I may just wait for a better deal. But yeah, I didn't realize they weren't real EMG's in there.
 
I'm as confused as anybody else. I knew it was a standard 34" scale and I played a couple songs with it, one of which had a lot of F's in it, and I noticed that my wrist was in an unusually uncomfortable position. So, I picked up my Fender P and the thing felt like a short scale compared to the Spector. I sat them side by side and the Spector is a good 2" longer while just sitting. Maybe it is the body or something, but the Fender just plays shorter.
 
I'm as confused as anybody else. I knew it was a standard 34" scale and I played a couple songs with it, one of which had a lot of F's in it, and I noticed that my wrist was in an unusually uncomfortable position. So, I picked up my Fender P and the thing felt like a short scale compared to the Spector. I sat them side by side and the Spector is a good 2" longer while just sitting. Maybe it is the body or something, but the Fender just plays shorter.
I have always had the same issue with Spectors. That F note seems WAY out there and it strains my wrist as well...its weird...guess its all in the way it hangs on you and the height of strap, position, etc.
 
I really like the thing. Maybe I should look into getting some lower tension strings on it. That would do wonders probably. I can handle my wrist being out there like that if I'm not struggling with the string.
 
I'm as confused as anybody else. I knew it was a standard 34" scale and I played a couple songs with it, one of which had a lot of F's in it, and I noticed that my wrist was in an unusually uncomfortable position. So, I picked up my Fender P and the thing felt like a short scale compared to the Spector. I sat them side by side and the Spector is a good 2" longer while just sitting. Maybe it is the body or something, but the Fender just plays shorter.
After looking at a couple of Fenders it's clear the NS body style has more body length after the bridge. This is undoubtably why at the same scale it's feeling longer. The speaking length of the strings is probably hanging a little more to your left than it would on a Fender.
 
The Tone Pump suposedly has a voltage doubler, running the pre at 18volts from a single 9volt battery. I prefer to run the EMG pups at 18volts, so.....

Question 2: Does the Tone Pump somehow pass the stepped up 18volts to the pups?
Question 2A: If not, will modding the whole circuit to 18volts (2 batteries) for the EMG's damage the Tone Pump?
Well, I'm not much help as I have no experience with the Tone pump. Having used the Aguilar OBP1, it is an 18v system with boost only bass and treble. This should be similar to the Tonepump as it a boost only, internal voltage doubler pre. When it comes to tone, I have always liked Aguilar preamps, just not the OBP1 boost only controls. :)
Is the Tone Pump Jr. active? Im assuming so.. in which case...

When I swapped in my East pre for the Tone Pump in my Euro (with active EMGs obviously) I used just one battery (it's all I had room for anyways) which feeds both the pre and pups.

You can run everything in 18 volts which will give you more headroom, but I find my bass is perfectly loud as it is.

So i THINK you'll be fine.. as long as the pickups are wired to a battery.
For any of you that remember this conversation, here's what PJ Rubal had to say about it:
PJ Rubal said:
hello -

the two versions of the TonePump are very similar, main diff is
the overall output db.

the EMG-SSD pickups are nice full mids passive humbuckers but
do not have any tone like active EMG pickups!!

first runs of TonePumps had some sort of doubler in there. it was
quickly discovered that this was not needed with this circuit.

I think you will find that the TonePump with the DCs at 9v is plenty!
officially it is not recommended to run the TonePump at 18v, it might
damage it.

DC pickups sound great at 9, 18...even 27 volts.

I hope this info helps.
PJ
So not all Tone Pumps are voltage doubled and we should not run it at 18 volt's either way.
Hmmm...
 
For any of you that remember this conversation, here's what PJ Rubal had to say about it:

JUST FYI: Spector sells all of their tone control units on their website. You can even get the HazLab tone-controls that go into the USA NS2 models there.

They sell their USA NS4 18v system. The link is:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I looked at all of these before going with an Auggie OBP2 in my NS2A.

They also are selling the new USA solid brass bridge... the one with INTONATION SCREWS! I wish they offered this stock on all of their basses.

I'm seriously thinking about buying one of each of my Spectors. I replaced the bridge on my Q4 out to a Hipshot Type A (like they use on the NS-4H USA bolt-on models) already.

I love the Spector bridge because once it's set, it's rock solid and the guitar holds tune like nothing I've ever seen... but not having intonation screws makes the setup an exercise in patience.

Anyway... check out their store.
 
JUST FYI: Spector sells all of their tone control units on their website. You can even get the HazLab tone-controls that go into the USA NS2 models there.

They sell their USA NS4 18v system. The link is:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I looked at all of these before going with an Auggie OBP2 in my NS2A.

They also are selling the new USA solid brass bridge... the one with INTONATION SCREWS! I wish they offered this stock on all of their basses.

I'm seriously thinking about buying one of each of my Spectors. I replaced the bridge on my Q4 out to a Hipshot Type A (like they use on the NS-4H USA bolt-on models) already.

I love the Spector bridge because once it's set, it's rock solid and the guitar holds tune like nothing I've ever seen... but not having intonation screws makes the setup an exercise in patience.

Anyway... check out their store.
Been there several times.

This doesn't really have much to do with my posts. I don't need more purchase options (especially since I'm well aware of them already). I need more info than they are giving on what I already have.

The problem with Spector's site (and it's been that way for years) is they are very lacking in certain technical and spec detailed info on both current and previous product.
 
Been there several times.

This doesn't really have much to do with my posts. I don't need more purchase options (especially since I'm well aware of them already). I need more info than they are giving on what I already have.

The problem with Spector's site (and it's been that way for years) is they are very lacking in certain technical and spec detailed info on both current and previous product.

I see. Sorry. I thought you were looking for an 18volt solution... meaning... I didn't realize you didn't want to get new stuff but wanted to see if you could shoe horn your existing electronics into something that would work for you.

Which, ironically is why I upgraded my NS2A to the Auggie. No one could tell me the technical stuff I needed to know about the old Kramer/Haz board, so I said "heck with it" (the PG version of what I really said) and trashed all the electronics in the guitar and started fresh. With the older Spector electronics and the tone pump (which I'm not crazy about now I've heard how the Auggie sounds) I've been of the opinion it's just better to pull the stuff out and go with what you know will work.

I see what you mean. Yeah. It would be really nice to have more technical info on their site. Which is horribly outdated, hard to navigate and basically broken in many areas.

I have a friend who's installing the old Spector guts out of my NS2A into a ReBop. I can't wait to see how that sounds.

Anyway. I feel for you.
 
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