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Squier Classic Vibe Club (Part 3)

Yea I don't think they are considered "serviceable" that being said what likely happen was when you tried to remove the truss nut it felt like a dual-action when the nut reached the underside of the walnut plug and stopped, so without scoring the poly and softening the plugs glue it will indeed crush the plug, crack the poly and probably would've cracked the fretboard if you used too much force before realizing that this was the issue.

Here's a pic after the walnut plug was removed with the truss nut removed.
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I drilled through the old nut and cut a spacer from it to use instead of washers.
View attachment 5414766
Alternatively you can use a long bit
to cleanly remove the plug instead of using the heat softening glue method.
StewMac also sells a truss rescue tool.

This HERE is NOT A Crafted In China Classic Vibe, it's a Crafted in Indonesia one with a 4mm nut / single action trussrod.. You CANNOT REMOVE THE NUT on a CIC CV. Can you please acknowledge what people tell you and stop insisting on telling me to do something that is NOT POSSIBLE? The nut doesn't go OUT on a DUAL ACTION TRUSSROD... I'm getting annoyed.
 
Sorry if I got carried away, I think I need a vacation... I had tons of s*** going on and this bass being bad killed my mood. Take care, I'll come back soon or later...
As far as I'm concerned, it's all good. We all have bad days and some of us also have bad-bass days. Put the two together and it equals "No bueno! :banghead:" All I can advise is to enjoy the hell out of the instruments you already have that make you feel good or better. :thumbsup:


…unless you're one of those freaks who only have one bass! Weirdos!! o_O


I am, of course, so kidding! I really envy them! :D
 
Here's my latest. Are you saying this 08 is a dual action truss rod?
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Yea I don't think they are considered "serviceable" that being said what likely happen was when you tried to remove the truss nut it felt like a dual-action when the nut reached the underside of the walnut plug and stopped, so without scoring the poly and softening the plugs glue it will indeed crush the plug, crack the poly and probably would've cracked the fretboard if you used too much force before realizing that this was the issue.

Here's a pic after the walnut plug was removed with the truss nut removed.
View attachment 5414765
I drilled through the old nut and cut a spacer from it to use instead of washers.
View attachment 5414766
Alternatively you can use a long bit
to cleanly remove the plug instead of using the heat softening glue method.
StewMac also sells a truss rescue tool.

Did CIC CV bass has black Squier decal on headstock ??
 
Did CIC CV bass has black Squier decal on headstock ??
I dug up some old, kinda-grainy photos of a parts-bass I built about six or seven years ago. A Chinese-made, first-generation Squier Classic Vibe '60s Jazz neck and a Japanese Fender Foto-Flame Jazz body.

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Work In Progress...

The neck seems to be stable with 45-100 rounds and 45-95 flatwounds (currently with GHS Precision Flats). The action is set nicely, the neck has nearly no relief on 7th fret. I replaced the bridge plate with another one I had on hands and removed the rust partially on the chromes saddles. Cleaned the pickguard. Changed the strap buttons' foams, as the original ones were fried. Renforced a bridge screw hole. 8.5k AlNiCo 51 pickup with cloth wire, ordered. I will solder it and check everything is normal.

Now the only part I needed to get fixed by someone else because I'm too afraid to do it... the knock near the skunk. stripe. It appears to only be on the poly, the wood is hopefully untouched.

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BE GONE... ding! :eek:
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Work In Progress...

The neck seems to be stable with 45-100 rounds and 45-95 flatwounds (currently with GHS Precision Flats). The action is set nicely, the neck has nearly no relief on 7th fret. I replaced the bridge plate with another one I had on hands and removed the rust partially on the chromes saddles. Cleaned the pickguard. Changed the strap buttons' foams, as the original ones were fried. Renforced a bridge screw hole. 8.5k AlNiCo 51 pickup with cloth wire, ordered. I will solder it and check everything is normal.

Now the only part I needed to get fixed by someone else because I'm too afraid to do it... the knock near the skunk. stripe. It appears to only be on the poly, the wood is hopefully untouched.

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BE GONE... ding! :eek:View attachment 5418083


Hey!! I saw your bass on zikinf & Leboncoin! Hehe

Well, i joined the CV club (again) today. Got my hands on an FSR Precision in Sonic Blue. Had to do a fair bit of cleaning, fret-polishing, shielding & it still has a scratchy tone pot.. but it's almost perfect now... it came with Fender Flats but i put some used D'Addario ETB92 Nylon Tapewounds on it instead.. i would have wanted to give the neck some relief but none of my alen keys seem to catch anything in there. In fact, when i pull them out again, it feels/sounds like they are scratching against... how do i explain that.. like the furrows made by screws into wood, except that it sounds like metal. Is there something wrong with the truss rod?

And how do i fix this?
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My final pickups swap on my Indo CV70P ~ $15 Chinese custom handwound 9.6K ohm P pup .

I been mention that i wanna make this CV70P sound more clanky and aggressive with EB Coblat flat loaded. First change are stock 250K tone pot to 500K , but i found dial back tone sound a bit wimpy and the low end fade pretty fast when i wanna dial a full and round P vibe for certain song . Wide open tone pot are ok, but after few band mix , still not that kind of clanky i looking for.

Second swap are used SPB4. Lucky me not buy it new, i found she sound pretty alike Benson Custom Handwound P pup i been use but more output and beefy low mid. After few swap on different value volume/tone pot , compare to Dimarzio Model P on my MOD PJ with same EB Coblat flat, i am more happy with the unique P vibe from Dimarzio set especially when play with pick.

Final swap are cheapo china 9.6K ohm P pup by request ( around 9.5-10K ). Actually I already have a nice sounding overwound J pup set from same seller/builder by request too. Since this pup are underwound, builder mention me that 9.5-10K ohm will sound little shy on MID voice but Low end and top will get more present with roundwound bass string. He has no idea how this 9.6k pup sound with flatwound bass string.
He also give me a tips that keep using 250k volume and tone pot but with .1uf cap, dial back the tone pot around 30-40% for a start, tweak the Amp EQ to get sound close to standard P vibe, then 70-100% tone pot range are that clanky range pool.
Follow his suggestion and i final choose .68uf cap with great result through . Since EB Cobalt flat sound like roundwound bass string, 30-35% dial back tone sound like standard P vibe, 40-45% dial back just fade out some amount of upper mid and treble become useful bloom/warm/round P vibe. So, wide open tone pot sound make me think i had a TBX tone pot inside !
 
Hey!! I saw your bass on zikinf & Leboncoin! Hehe

Well, i joined the CV club (again) today. Got my hands on an FSR Precision in Sonic Blue. Had to do a fair bit of cleaning, fret-polishing, shielding & it still has a scratchy tone pot.. but it's almost perfect now... it came with Fender Flats but i put some used D'Addario ETB92 Nylon Tapewounds on it instead.. i would have wanted to give the neck some relief but none of my alen keys seem to catch anything in there. In fact, when i pull them out again, it feels/sounds like they are scratching against... how do i explain that.. like the furrows made by screws into wood, except that it sounds like metal. Is there something wrong with the truss rod?

And how do i fix this?
View attachment 5430225
This light blue Squier is just so nice !
 
Hey!! I saw your bass on zikinf & Leboncoin! Hehe

Do you check leboncoin even from Spain? :o

So I listed it for sale after changing the pickup (with a Chinese one 6.9kOhm with vintage clothed wires, AlNiCo V that does sound fantastic!) and after the neck was heat-straightened by a qualified luthier. It's stable and straight with 45-95 flats or 45-100 rounds. But people won't buy it because of the lacquer crack on the back of the neck, I'm pretty certain. :(

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Yes i do check those websites just in case from time to time.

Can anyone help with my truss rod thing? Is there possibly a bit missing from my truss rod where the alen key would fit?

I don't like bringing bad news but if you got a proper 4mm steel Allen/hex key and it doesn't turn, it sucks... I had too many issues with ICS Squiers and I've stopped bothering with them.
 

So I listed it for sale after changing the pickup (with a Chinese one 6.9kOhm with vintage clothed wires, AlNiCo V that does sound fantastic!) and after the neck was heat-straightened by a qualified luthier. It's stable and straight with 45-95 flats or 45-100 rounds. But people won't buy it because of the lacquer crack on the back of the neck, I'm pretty certain. :(

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If it's priced right I think it should sell, the lacquer crack is relatively easy fix.
I looked at the pics of the fret tangs on the neck and on mine it looks much the same from certain angles and since I can't feel them it's never bothered me.
I'll add a pic of the neck/fret tangs from my CIC 50's in case anyone is interested.

Good luck with the sale, it sounds like you were able to get it playable again.
Nice job a good effort and a nice save…
 

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Can anyone help with my truss rod thing? Is there possibly a bit missing from my truss rod where the alen key would fit?
Maybe, if you have a flashlight light up the cavity then take a pic so we can see what goin on in there. You may have a stripped nut, no nut at all or possibly the wood under the nut has compressed and the nut is deeper than it should be. Pics?
 
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