Yeah I'm going to prime one-day myself some strings. I think these are just crap. What a beautiful looking bass though.
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Yeah I'm going to prime one-day myself some strings. I think these are just crap. What a beautiful looking bass though.
Had some points to burn with MF and have again been lusting over a 5 banger for some time now, so pulled the trigger on the CV 70’s Jazz V in black. I’m crossing my fingers I get one that isn’t too heavy. I’ve owned several of the VMJ5’s and always thought them to be the best bang for the buck Jazz 5’er out there. I was stoked when I saw they finally released one in black. Hopefully will be here tomorrow. I’ll share my thoughts in the next couple days.
I been swap the CV50P stock tuning machine with Gotoh re-o-lite vintage tuning machine, whole set include rings and screws weight different around 250+/- grams. I dint feel reduce much but better look with nickel Gotoh.
About the pickup voice, she has sweet tone with Sadowsky blk flat string. If compare to my previous VM77J and current VM J(both use Cobalt Flat 2814), she has less omph , less growl and lower output.
Yeah, strings can make a difference…sometimes a very big difference. Also, have you checked your pickup height?
I just dropped in a new Seymour Duncan SBP-3 pickup and new full sized Fender 250k pots into my 2013 Precision CV and what a huge difference in output and tone. I'm very glad that I decided to do this.
I would highly recommend this mod to anyone considering swapping out the factory pickup. I'll post a photo of it later.
TD
I would highly recommend this mod to anyone considering swapping out the factory pickup. I'll post a photo of it later.
TD
Nice Fender-y vibe with the PU cover! I'd swap the pickguard, too, though! They are more "marble-ish" than "tortoise shell" to my eyeball
Hi everyone,
My friend is looking to buy a classic vibe 70s p bass. The black one with the brass saddles. It is beautiful and plays well. He has it on hold at the music the one thing that is holding him back is that it is oddly light. It's a used one and he held the brand new one (with no brass saddles) and it was alot heavier. Anyone have any idea why that might be?
My friend is looking to buy a classic vibe 70s p bass. The black one with the brass saddles. It is beautiful and plays well. He has it on hold at the music the one thing that is holding him back is that it is oddly light. It's a used one and he held the brand new one (with no brass saddles) and it was alot heavier. Anyone have any idea why that might be?
In my past opinion, all the mic CV70P I try at GC include the one I return a months ago has weight less than 8 1/2 lbs.
It is bass wood , but the CV60P and CV 60J use same wood has vary of weight from 8lbs till 11lbs.
I have no much experience on new Indonesian CV70P.
Chinese-made, 1st-generation Classic Vibe bodies are usually made of basswood. Basswood tends to be lighter and a bit softer than alder, soft maple and other harder woods. It can dent a little easier and if you tend to swap out hardware frequently (pickguards, pickups, bridges, etc…), the screw threads may start to strip.
It's not like the body is going to fall apart, but cosmetically speaking, they can be a bit fragile.
The Guitar Center that I work at had two 2019 70’s Jazz bass in natural on hand- one on the sales floor & an one in the warehouse, still in the box.
I ended up buying the one that had been on the sales floor for about a week because it weighed a good 2 lbs less than the other one, and in my opinion sounded quite a bit more vibrant.
The one I have has a two piece maple body & the other one was a single piece. Variations in overall instrument weight boils down to how much the actual piece(s) of wood used for the body weigh.
The single slabbed monster sold not too long ago & the latest one hanging on the wall has a body made with three pieces of wood- looks cool & weighs about the same as mine.
It feels almost as light as my jaguar. Which I find odd. He's just paranoid someone switched out the body or something.
If possible, take out the brass bridge, check the screws hole. Because the mic CV bass use wider string spacing saddle. If Pre-owner swap the body, you could find the previous narrow screws spacing and maybe some wood filler/redrill sign .
Hopehelp.
Edit.
Forgot to mention that the batch before discontinued are use Fender bend bridge.
My return CV70P has it along with correct size of bridge cover. The earlier size are bigger which same use on sonic blue CV60P.
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In this couple weeks , I been done setup for 2 new CV70J and CV60J along with my VM J.
Here I am not talk about thier different, it is about the low action fret buzz from 14th fret till last fret.
For bassist friend who prefer light touch and comfort plucking , I prefer set relief .010 on 7th fret and action 2.0mm on E string to 1.6mm on G stting for pbass and jbass.
On both new CV j and my VM j, it is fine with just follow Fender Setup guide. .012-.014 neck relief and 2.4mm on E to 2.0mm on G. But, if pluck harder, the buzz could appear on some fret from 14th to last fret but acceptable.
As an experiment, I set low action as I mention above, 3 of them has notable fret buzz on few fret from 14th till last fret even normal pluck. The worst case are the D and G string just choking on last 2 fret on CV70J even fretted note on 16th fret.
I has no such problem on my all china Squier CV bass in past include my current 2011 CV60P and Sterling sub ray 4.
I really have no idea what is going on. Look like factory issue on fret job and neck plane. The CV70J buzz pretty like ski jump issue to me. Or, my setup just too low ?
I possible will sell the VM J.
Edit.
I dint try low action setup on my previous VM77J since I found the bass sound pretty good and play well follow fender setup guide.
Here I am not talk about thier different, it is about the low action fret buzz from 14th fret till last fret.
For bassist friend who prefer light touch and comfort plucking , I prefer set relief .010 on 7th fret and action 2.0mm on E string to 1.6mm on G stting for pbass and jbass.
On both new CV j and my VM j, it is fine with just follow Fender Setup guide. .012-.014 neck relief and 2.4mm on E to 2.0mm on G. But, if pluck harder, the buzz could appear on some fret from 14th to last fret but acceptable.
As an experiment, I set low action as I mention above, 3 of them has notable fret buzz on few fret from 14th till last fret even normal pluck. The worst case are the D and G string just choking on last 2 fret on CV70J even fretted note on 16th fret.
I has no such problem on my all china Squier CV bass in past include my current 2011 CV60P and Sterling sub ray 4.
I really have no idea what is going on. Look like factory issue on fret job and neck plane. The CV70J buzz pretty like ski jump issue to me. Or, my setup just too low ?
I possible will sell the VM J.
Edit.
I dint try low action setup on my previous VM77J since I found the bass sound pretty good and play well follow fender setup guide.
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Have you tried re-tightening the neck bolts by hand? I was having the same problem when I attached a new neck and body together. No matter what I did, I kept getting buzzing on the lower frets and I didn't want to raise the bridge saddles any higher.
As it turned out, the electric driver I was using only brought the bolts to about 95%. When I gave the bolts a strong turn with a screwdriver, two of them finally tightened to 100%. And just like that, the buzz disappeared and I was able to lower the bridge saddles and adjust the truss rod to where I like it.
It may not be what's happening in your case, but it's worth trying and costs nothing but a little time and "elbow grease".
Have you tried re-tightening the neck bolts by hand? I was having the same problem when I attached a new neck and body together. No matter what I did, I kept getting buzzing on the lower frets and I didn't want to raise the bridge saddles any higher.
As it turned out, the electric driver I was using only brought the bolts to about 95%. When I gave the bolts a strong turn with a screwdriver, two of them finally tightened to 100%. And just like that, the buzz disappeared and I was able to lower the bridge saddles and adjust the truss rod to where I like it.
It may not be what's happening in your case, but it's worth trying and costs nothing but a little time and "elbow grease".
Everytime I setup my new bass or friend's bass, sure I will take off the neck first for cleaning the wood dust or dirt on both neck pocket and neck join area. I also make fine adjustment which set the string/ pickup well align with the neck and full tighten the neck screws on final check.
Since I am not an expert, I will bring my VmJ to my local luthier for inspection maybe tomorrow.
Finally found one CV Precision bass in fiesta red from 2009 in my local area, I can't believe it's in near prefect condition, not even one ding! Except for some fret wear, and missing a thumb rest. The previous owner at one point replaced all the pickguard screws with some weird looking flathead/Phillips hybrid type, I doubt they are even in the right size. Could someone please kindly provide me some information about the original screw size used for CV 60s bass? Joe
The older CV 70's used basswood, the new ones are "Nato" which is apparently some kind mahogany-like wood, most likely more dense than the lightweight basswood. That said, however, I have a CIC CV 70's P bass from the previous generation and it's heavier than the new gen Indonesian CV 60's I tried, but that one's apparently made from poplar.. Sometimes it's just the individual piece of wood that was used for that specific unit.
If it sounds good, plays well, he likes the weight and it doesn't exhibit neck dive to a degree he's satisfied with I'd say get the older CIC one (CGS serial no?).
And for anyone interested in buying the newer range of CV basses I highly recommend trying them out in the store before buying. I bought the aforementioned new CV 60's bass from an outlet that only sell sealed packages and had to return it for quite bad QC issues. I don't trust the ICS serial units made in the Cor-Tek factory to have good enough QC yet. The ISS ones look like they should be better (Samick factory), but not many of them in the wild yet and don't know yet how they compare to those great previous gen CIC ones.
I, too, recently acquired one in Fiesta Red. I replaced a few of the pickguard screws with some standard Fender pickguard screws from Amazon. Of course, the ones in the thumbrest are the same diameter, but a different length.
