I've already checked and the tuner plate will barely fit. It just needs the worm reversed to get the correct peg convention. I haven't yet removed the tuner but it looks like the worm should be reversible.
I have some meager woodworking skills but I don't think I want to do any more than cutting the headstock, relocating the tuner, and sanding a bit on the cut to smooth it out.
I just don't want to do even that little and find that there's some reason I shouldn't have done it, hence my question.
As far as neck dive goes, there is a great deal of inconsistency in the Jag SS weights from axe to axe. The first one I got weighed 7.25 lbs and had no neck dive, but it was blemished so I sent it back. The replacement weighs 6.75 lbs and has noticeable neck dive. I have anchors screwed into the top of my shoulder from bicept surgery. Any neck dive at all causes enough pain from the strap to be irritating, but not excruciating. Wide nylon straps hurt less than wide leather ones, but I can't do long sessions comfortably unless there is ZERO neck dive.
I have some meager woodworking skills but I don't think I want to do any more than cutting the headstock, relocating the tuner, and sanding a bit on the cut to smooth it out.
I just don't want to do even that little and find that there's some reason I shouldn't have done it, hence my question.
As far as neck dive goes, there is a great deal of inconsistency in the Jag SS weights from axe to axe. The first one I got weighed 7.25 lbs and had no neck dive, but it was blemished so I sent it back. The replacement weighs 6.75 lbs and has noticeable neck dive. I have anchors screwed into the top of my shoulder from bicept surgery. Any neck dive at all causes enough pain from the strap to be irritating, but not excruciating. Wide nylon straps hurt less than wide leather ones, but I can't do long sessions comfortably unless there is ZERO neck dive.
