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Squier Jazz / T-40 frankenbuild

#47
Hope your back gets better, man. It's never fun.

Meanwhile, here's the completed wiring. I've kept the colors as close to the original as possible. The light-green is an exception as it can be either white or green (logically speaking, depending on the current position of the phase switch). Also, some T-40s have black wires instead of green.
Peaveypnut166T-40stacked.png


Since the T-40 is so complex and awesome, here's a cheat sheet, too:
Peaveypnut166T-40stackedcontrols.png


Now, there are two caveats to the wiring:
  • The original wiring has both variable splitters kill the lower coil, the one closer to the bridge. This means that if both pickups are selected and both are in single-coil mode, this combination won't be humbucking (see the middle position in the second-to-last column). The wiring can be modified so you have the "outer" coils active, in order to get the "jazz-like" mode humbucking if you'd like. The phase switch won't be affected by this and it'll remain as funky as it is.
  • The original T-40 has some sort of special taper on the tone control pots that's neither linear nor audio to help with the variable splitting. I have no idea what it is (could be an S-taper or a half-linear/half-audio), but I've sent an e-mail to Peavey to see if they'd be willing to share.
 
#48
Stealth said:
Hope your back gets better, man. It's never fun.

[*]The original T-40 has some sort of special taper on the tone control pots that's neither linear nor audio to help with the variable splitting. I have no idea what it is (could be an S-taper or a half-linear/half-audio), but I've sent an e-mail to Peavey to see if they'd be willing to share.[/LIST]
Click to expand...

Yeah, the back thing. I have a few bulging discs, and one that`s ruptured. Flares up about once a year, always when the chiropractor is closed :) Freaking awesome !!!! Thanks a ton, man - this should be stickied for all the T-40 nerds here ! I knew at some point in the past I had read a long discussion as to whether there was indeed something proprietary with the tone pots. Not sure how much real-world effect it has on the circuit. Thanks again for all the help - I should be able to plod my way through whatever route I decide to go using this !
 
#50
Well, I somehow got in touch with none other than Chip Todd, father of the T-series Peaveys. Basically, it should work like this, however, he said you'd get a nicer sound if you had 300K pots for tones. It could be done, but it'd mean getting 300K pots (which aren't cheap) and opening up the stacks... maybe a bit too much work. As is, go with stacked 250Ks.
 
#54
After a few hours of plugging holes and watching glue dry, some progress made. My D-tuner and bridge were not, of course, direct drop-ins. But with a little work, they`re installed. Pup routes marked. After some eyeballing and rough measuring, I`m not sure everything is gonna fit under the standard control plate, even going to stacked pots : / That`s a lot of wiring !
IMG_4884.jpg
 
#55
It may look like it can't all fit in, but trust me, it can. A stacked pot is smaller than a push-pull, for instance, and I've seen people (chunger on Talkbass, for instance) cram three of those into a a Jazz electronics compartment with wires going everywhere. And it fit, and it worked. ;)

Check the wiring schematic again and you'll notice most of the complex wiring is happening between the decks of the stacked pots. So not that much space taken up.

Edit: for clarification, [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].
 
#56
A Marcus Miller type pickguard will solve a lot of problems.

As for the pickup routes, there's not a lot space between the routing and the edges of the ring, especially the top and bottom. On my rings, it's about 0.10" on the upper and lower ends and 0.125" on the sides. I ran into that problem before and made my route just a tad too long. I ended up with a slight gap between the ring and pickguard.
 
#57
xaxxat said:
A Marcus Miller type pickguard will solve a lot of problems.

As for the pickup routes, there's not a lot space between the routing and the edges of the ring, especially the top and bottom. On my rings, it's about 0.10" on the upper and lower ends and 0.125" on the sides. I ran into that problem before and made my route just a tad too long. I ended up with a slight gap between the ring and pickguard.
Click to expand...

So, you`ve done this mod ? Let`s see some pics !!!! Y`know, I`m really leaning toward something like the P/J PG design. My soldering skills aren`t great, and my understanding of what`s going on with it is even less. If I did a complete rewire and ran into a problem, I don`t think I could accurately diagnose it. Not to mention, something like this would take me hours. Like I said earlier, I did a rewire on an LP once, and it was a nightmare for me :) And this is more complicated. Call me a wuss, but I`m inclined to just transplant the electronics intact as I originally planned. Not to mention when the thought of a stacked knob configuration hit me, I didn`t take into account the cost of good pots and knobs. Gonna have to do some more thinkin` on it, but I`m kinda scared to try this honestly. Much more comfortable with the idea of just a straight transplant.
 
#58
Here's pics of a Bronco I did. It's in pieces now. I did a 4 wire conversion on the pup and wired it to a 5 way switch. I had this pickup in an SX short scale for awhile. On the SX, it was wired to a 4 pole 6 throw rotary switch and a 10 position varitone. It was ballsy, especially with the pup in series.

I've got an SX Gypsy Rose medium scale that I'm planning on converting soon. I'm waiting on pickguard material and a bridge.

IMG_0127.jpg
IMG_0128.jpg
IMG_0129.jpg
 

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