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Squier "Perfect Fit Replacement Parts" Mega thread

I replaced the bridge pickup in my 2008 P Bass Special with a noiseless one, and it needed the same treatment as shown in Malak's pictures - a little bit taken off at each end of the cavity, and a little around the pickup ears. I did mine with files and sandpaper. If you bevel the finish at the ends before you start extending the cavity, you're unlikely to chip the paint.
Of course as soon as I played it, I realised that the original pickup sounded way nicer than the replacement, so it's now back to stock :facepalm:
I added some foil shielding to the cavity while I was in there, so it wasn't a total waste of time. The original paint was non-conductive, plus it wasn't connected to ground.
Can you clarify what you mean by beveling the finish?
 
I'll try! So here's a cross-section of the cavity edge. The red is the paint on the surface of the bass.

Filing the cavity wall is liable to catch the edge of the paint and potentially chip it off beyond the area you wanted to remove:
1733409565606.png


Gently filing into the cavity at an angle creates a bevelled edge, easing back the upper edge of the paint to the distance you're planning to expand the cavity to. You can then file parallel to the cavity wall to expand it with less risk of chipping:
1733409594074.png


Having drawn a diagram, I don't know if this genuinely makes any difference. I saw it suggested somewhere, followed it, and had no problems with chipping. Whether one thing actually resulted in the other is a mystery :)
 
I needed to extend my bridge pu cavity too…to install some EMG Geezers on my 2003 Shoreline Gold P-Bass Special (Standard). Was going to use a Dremel (w/ routing attachment) and a Jazz pu template I bought. But I got cold feet and had a local luthier do the route and repaint the cavity. They did a great job…it looks as new from the factory.
 

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I needed to extend my bridge pu cavity too…to install some EMG Geezers on my 2003 Shoreline Gold P-Bass Special (Standard). Was going to use a Dremel (w/ routing attachment) and a Jazz pu template I bought. But I got cold feet and had a local luthier do the route and repaint the cavity. They did a great job…it looks as new from the factory.
Man that's a good lookin' bass!

Did you need to modify anything else to fit the electronics? pots, wiring etc.

I've ordered some EMG PJ active pickups for my P Special, and afaik the J pickup and all the pots are the same dimensions as the GZR set, with the twist that I'll need to make space for the battery...
 
I needed to extend my bridge pu cavity too…to install some EMG Geezers on my 2003 Shoreline Gold P-Bass Special (Standard). Was going to use a Dremel (w/ routing attachment) and a Jazz pu template I bought. But I got cold feet and had a local luthier do the route and repaint the cavity. They did a great job…it looks as new from the factory.
I just went thru the same decision, but went against my better judgment when the cheapest i could find was $150 and like a month time. I did use the dremel and router attachment (that i already had) as you said and did come out not great, but i don’t feel bad about this since i got the bass kind of cheap. The right side came put way better than the left for some reason. I may clean it up at some point but at least got me going.
 

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And following that one up, i add my latest (in a long while) build. Squier pbass special body with Precision conversion neck. Ive had this neck for a while waiting for a project. The original neck is really good but this one is awesome too, plus it looks great with the purple.
 

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And following that one up, i add my latest (in a long while) build. Squier pbass special body with Precision conversion neck. Ive had this neck for a while waiting for a project. The original neck is really good but this one is awesome too, plus it looks great with the purple.
To quote an old fan favorite show... :whistle:

1z339b.jpg
 
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Anyone looking for tuning machines to replace the atrocity installed on Affinity Jazz Basses manufactured in the recent years, consider Paxphil JBL-200-CR. Cheap and rather stiff but definitely an improvement over the stock ones with their ridiculous play, and are an almost perfect fit (I did have to file the tuner holes in the neck just a tiniest bit).
 
Picked up a 2003, P bass with a 14 hole pickguard. Any good replacement guards ?
Is it fair to assume the bass says "Standard" on the headstock? If so, you may have a hard time finding a replacement. It's even possible you might have to send a tracing to WD Music or someone else who can fabricate a pickguard without a preexisting template.
 
Is it fair to assume the bass says "Standard" on the headstock? If so, you may have a hard time finding a replacement. It's even possible you might have to send a tracing to WD Music or someone else who can fabricate a pickguard without a preexisting template.

Thanks for the reply. It says Squier by Fender, and it's an Affinity series in black script.
 
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Thanks for the reply. It says Squier by Fender, and it's an Affinity series in black script.
Sadly, I cannot help on that front. The only Affinity I ever owned was over ten years ago (which feels like 1,000 years, at this point! 😰) AND it was a Jazz bass, so I have no clue. Hopefully, someone else will chime in with something more helpful.

One thing I will say; if you do what I did and use spray paint on the guard, be sure to hit it with several layers of clear coat. (Glossy or satin is up to you.) I skipped that last part and the paint eventually started to warp right above the neck pickup, where I frequently anchored my thumb.
 
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Anyone know if there is a replacement pickguard being made for the Debut series P? A quick Google search didn't yield anything.
The “Standard” P Bass Special just might
fit but nearly impossible to find. Food for thought, the rout in the Debut is large enough to drop the pickups a 1/4” (that’s what I did) just about any after market Fender/Squier pick guard will fit (mostly) a couple new holes at the bottom by output to keep screw heads square but they would have worked although a tad crooked. Here is mine with an older Squier Affinity pick guard and full size pots.
IMG_1941.webp
 
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heyyo!
seeking any & all information anybody has on what tuning machines they used on the old P Bass Standard Special. Mine lost its central screw that the gear turns on & I've been havin a real time of it tracking down a suitable replacement with my limited knowledge! If you lot got any recommendations I'm very eager to fix this situation I miss playing!
 
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heyyo!
seeking any & all information anybody has on what tuning machines they used on the old P Bass Standard Special. Mine lost its central screw that the gear turns on & I've been havin a real time of it tracking down a suitable replacement with my limited knowledge! If you lot got any recommendations I'm very eager to fix this situation I miss playing!
I'm assuming you have an open-back tuner, yes? If so, I used to have a Squier Standard Jazz as a modding platform…complete with a Hipshot BT7 Xtender…so I'm 99% sure they're the same tuners found on the Fender Standards of the time. If so, it's also compatible with the Hipshot HB7. Check the specs on this one and see if it looks like a possible match.

 
I'm assuming you have an open-back tuner, yes? If so, I used to have a Squier Standard Jazz as a modding platform…complete with a Hipshot BT7 Xtender…so I'm 99% sure they're the same tuners found on the Fender Standards of the time. If so, it's also compatible with the Hipshot HB7. Check the specs on this one and see if it looks like a possible match.

okay! so I talked to the hipshot people on the phone, they said that there's myriad tuners that are fitting that, the HB7 is the closest, but also that I'd have to slot new screw holes for the mounting ones. I'm debating just taking the whole shebang to the hardware store & simply finding the turning screw there seeing as i'd have to drill new little holes anyways! what y'all think?
 
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