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Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?

The new bridge showed up this afternoon.

It's heavy as @#$!

I took 6 ounces off when I installed the Ultralites last year, and this afternoon I just put them right back on. The Kickass is 6 oz heavier than the stock bridge, and my VMP5 is back to weighing more than 8 1/2 lb.

Still, you can't complain when you buy a high-mass bridge, and it turns out to be as beefy as advertised. Besides, at least now the extra weight is at the end where it doesn't cause neck dive...

For the most part, everything about the Kickass is up to Hipshot's usual standards.

They throw in a pair of taller saddles, in case you need them for a high-action setup. Extra intonation screws in a short length, and a couple of shorter springs to match. Plating is excellent, as always. The saddle lock, height and intonation adjustments are silky-smooth, and it was a breeze to get an exact match for the string spacing over the pickups.

Using the short intonation screws on the D, A and E string saddles brought the intonation right into line for the light-gauge Balanced Tension Chromes I currently have on the bass.

So why am I a little disappointed?

I couldn't use the recommended phillips #2 to adjust the intonation, because the ball end of the strings are too close to the heads of the intonation screws. This also makes it hard to remove the strings, as they bind on the screw heads under string tension.

If they had opened up the slots just a mm or two wider...

More importantly, the B string wouldn't intonate. The spring was coil-bound and the screw bottomed out, yet it still wouldn't go back far enough.

I had to fire up the bench grinder, and take about a 1/4" off the screw.

While I was at it, I also clipped a couple of the springs so they wouldn't coil-bind, and turned down the head of the intonation screw for the B-string, to make string changing easier in future.

When I first realized that I would have to take the bridge apart to fit the other intonation screws, I seriously considered drilling a new set of holes, and moving the bridge back about 5/16".

There's enough room, and it would have made it intonate perfectly. But why should I have to, when I'm buying a model-specific bridge from the best machine shop in the business?
 
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Is it truly that heavy? When I installed it, I just didn't even really notice, and I think because it's on the other side of the bass, I didn't really feel like it made the bass any heavier feeling. It's a bit annoying that you had to shorten a screw. Maybe with all the extra parts they put in the packaging, they should bundle a shorter screw and spring, that would work fine. Did you get it all worked out in the end?

Perhaps a way to solve the issue with the screwdriver is to use square drive machine screws which might be more maneuverable. Hipshot bridges seem to use imperial screws, and I think it's a standard #6-32 thread over there.
 
The new bridge showed up this afternoon.



While I was at it, I also clipped a couple of the springs so they wouldn't coil-bind, and turned down the head of the intonation screw for the B-string, to make string changing easier in future.

When I first realized that I would have to take the bridge apart to fit the other intonation screws, I seriously considered drilling a new set of holes, and moving the bridge back about 5/16".

There's enough room, and it would have made it intonate perfectly. But why should I have to, when I'm buying a model-specific bridge from the best machine shop in the business?


This. SO close to awesome, but not quite. All they had to do, was do a set up with their bridge fitted and they would've known.
 
This. SO close to awesome, but not quite. All they had to do, was do a set up with their bridge fitted and they would've known.
Not necessarily something they would catch in the design phase.

Maybe a vendor substituted a slightly longer screw. Maybe they didn't try it with Chromes.

Also, manufacturing changes at Squier aren't unknown. Perhaps the bass they fitted the prototype bridge to, had the bridge plate mounted slightly further back?
 
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Is it truly that heavy? When I installed it, I just didn't even really notice, and I think because it's on the other side of the bass, I didn't really feel like it made the bass any heavier feeling. It's a bit annoying that you had to shorten a screw. Maybe with all the extra parts they put in the packaging, they should bundle a shorter screw and spring, that would work fine. Did you get it all worked out in the end?

Perhaps a way to solve the issue with the screwdriver is to use square drive machine screws which might be more maneuverable. Hipshot bridges seem to use imperial screws, and I think it's a standard #6-32 thread over there.
According to my wife's finely calibrated 50-year old kitchen scale, the stock bridge is a hair over 4 ounces. The Kickass is more than half a pound, at just over 10 ounces.

Not the end of the world, but noticeable.

With the minor fit issues sorted out, I still like the rest of the design.

It's definitely not as rigid and locked down as a Babycz, and I'm not hearing a huge difference in sustain or tone that would make me want to go back to the stock bridge.

It's like putting on Ultralites, or a Fender pickup. Not an earth-shattering difference, but you feel like you personalized the instrument, and the fit and finish are sexier...
 
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Pics!

Note the way the head of the intonation screw encroaches on the seat for the ball-end of the string...

Hipshot_Kickass_intonation-string_pocket_-_1.jpg


Side view. Plating on the saddles is generous, but not show-quality:

Hipshot Kickass side view - 1.jpg
 
My customer builds are always nice and neat, but the setup on my own stock bridge was an OCD nightmare!

Note that the silk on the B string extended well past the saddle, although it didn't seem to affect intonation or tone. Also, Allparts vintage steel saddles for the D and G strings:

VMP5 stock bridge Allparts vintage saddles - 1.jpg



The Kickass is huge, but definitely tidier-looking. Sorry about the dust and fingerprints:

VMP5 Hipshot Kickass - 1.jpg


Looking at how close the tail of the B-string saddle is to the back rail, you can see why I had to trim the intonation screw.

The .132 B string is used in the regular ECB81-5 set, so it's not like I was using an unusual gauge because of the balanced tension setup.

I didn't have time to try it last night, but I'm guessing that the .145 from the heavier-gauge Nickel XL rounds would not fit at all.

This is something to consider if you're into down-tuning. I had no trouble modifying the stock bridge to work with the .145- just had to open the hole up a bit...
 
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I'll update on the intonation with Chromes once my bridge gets here, last scan shows it's been in New Jersey so I guess it's Europe bound.
When fitting a replacement bridge, I like to pre-set the intonation.

Just line the two bridges up so that the mounting holes line up, then adjust the new bridge to match the old. It's easy to make the adjustments that way, without dealing with string tension, or the ball ends of the strings getting in the way.

It won't be perfect, but it gets you close.

In this case, be careful when adjusting the intonation with the bass at concert pitch (at least with D'Addario strings).

Since the clearance is so tight, you'll probably be using an undersized (#1 philips) screwdriver. Go gently as the screw starts to bottom out in the saddle- if you use too much force and the screwdriver slips, you risk rounding off the head of the intonation screw.
 
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I have a 5 string Jazz with Dimarzio Ultra Jazz pups. Not the most expensive but a great punchy tone.
I've put various Nordstrand, Duncan and Dimarzio pickups into 4 and 5-string Jazz basses for people, and for better or worse, there was always a noticeable change in the way the instrument sounded. My favourite passive 4-string Jazz setup is a pair of Dimarzio Area J's.

I've done the same thing to 4-string Fender and Squier P's. Noticeable difference in every case. For a vintage vibe, I personally prefer the Fender AVRI pickup. It has more bark, but a lot of people like the Nordy, which sounds just a little rounder and smoother. The QP definitely has it's own thing, higher output and rather exaggerated.

Regardless of which one you prefer, there's always a sense of having gotten some value for your money.

A couple of us have put the 2008 and up Am Standard Precision V pickup into our VMP5's, and to be frank, the difference isn't overwhelming. Audiences are not going to notice the difference.

There's a YouTube before and after video featuring the Nordstrand vintage 5-string pickup. You'd have to listen to it yourself, but personally I would call nice, but not it a $134 Improvement. TBH, you'd get a bigger bang for your buck out of a Tonestyler or an active preamp.
 
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I give up. No matter how I try to get comfortable with them, I just don't get along with flats.

Took the VMP5 to rehearsal last night, complete with the shiny new bridge. And didn't know what to do with it. Neither did the sound team.

Everyone wanted my Dingwall back, because of the way it balances so nicely between cutting through, and sitting in the mix.

I know it's not the Squier, because they've enjoyed it in the past with nickel rounds.

In other news, I got a very quick response from Hipshot about my email regarding the adjustment/fit issues with the Kickass.

They thanked me for the feedback, but didn't say if they have plans to make production changes.
 
Anyone who tells you that there's nothing wrong with overseas manufacturing, has never stripped the finish on a late-model Indonesian Squier.

Back when my VMP5 was only a month or so out of the factory, I sanded the back of the neck. I was surprised to find it finished with a slow-curing clearcoat- there was a distinct odour of solvents as I sanded it back.

Fast-forward to last night, when I started attacking the tummy and forearm cuts with a rasp. Imagine my surprise, when the first couple of cuts into the Oly White paint released a strong smell like nail polish!

This thing is still off-gassing, three years after it was built. AFAIK, no worker in a decent-sized musical instrument or furniture factory in North America has sprayed that sort of toxic goop in at least 15 years...
 
Anyone who tells you that there's nothing wrong with overseas manufacturing, has never stripped the finish on a late-model Indonesian Squier.

Back when my VMP5 was only a month or so out of the factory, I sanded the back of the neck. I was surprised to find it finished with a slow-curing clearcoat- there was a distinct odour of solvents as I sanded it back.

Has anyone sanded the back of the neck of their VMP5 recently? I was going to do that, but now I'm not so sure I want to do that ...
 
Has anyone sanded the back of the neck of their VMP5 recently? I was going to do that, but now I'm not so sure I want to do that ...
The smell wasn't strong, and the clearcoat buffs out to a nice, hard thin-film finish after you cut it back.

Some people like steel wool (be sure to tape a plastic bag over the pickguard area to keep steel shavings out of the jack, pots and pickups if you use it).

I prefer to go up through as many grits of fine sandpaper as I have at hand. It's important to use a sanding block for the first couple of grades- with the thick poly coats Cortech puts on these, there are lots of minor highs and lows in the finish. If you hand sand, you'll follow the contours.

If you use a block, it will knock the high spots off, and actually level the finish. Poly turns white when it's rough-sanded, so it's easy to see where the high spots are and when they're gone.

As you go up through the finer grits, the transparency and clarity comes back.

I find that 320-400-600-800-1000-1200-1500 makes for a very nice semi-gloss finish. Just a few strokes with each grade, rather than obsessively rubbing the same area with a single grit.

The end result is never sticky, and feels almost like the tru-oil finish on a G&L with the gun oil option.
 
Well, I'll be. That thick poly finish really affects the tone of these things!

If you're one of the folks who feels that the VMP5 sounds too bright, you definitely don't want to refinish it.

If you're like me, and feel that it lacks some of the "bark" that you expect from a good P-bass, you've got to do this!

Throaty mids for days, now that I've stripped about 90% of the paint off the body. This thing is loud and proud. I wish I'd done it the day I brought it home.
 
Well, I'll be. That thick poly finish really affects the tone of these things!

If you're one of the folks who feels that the VMP5 sounds too bright, you definitely don't want to refinish it.

If you're like me, and feel that it lacks some of the "bark" that you expect from a good P-bass, you've got to do this!

Throaty mids for days, now that I've stripped about 90% of the paint off the body. This thing is loud and proud. I wish I'd done it the day I brought it home.

You know the routine. Pics, or it didn't happen! Yeah, I know, it's probably not the most beautious instrument at the moment. What are you going to do with the finish?

Also, when you say throaty mids for days, do you mean it's added sustain (for days), or just more throaty mids?
 
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