For those who are wondering and didn't ask via PM, the bonus headphone amp pcb I included is the one from
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=641917.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=641917.
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Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre
- Thread starter blmeier7
- Start date
Beautiful work putting that together. Just as a reminder, here's how this thread started:
Now THAT is beautiful work!
You say that you are planning on using cloth covered wire? Where do you find it small enough to fit through the strain relief holes?
Now THAT is beautiful work!
You say that you are planning on using cloth covered wire? Where do you find it small enough to fit through the strain relief holes?
The holes came out smaller than I had intended. You may need to treat them as pilot holes and drill them out a little further to match whatever wire you end up using.
Now THAT is beautiful work!
You say that you are planning on using cloth covered wire? Where do you find it small enough to fit through the strain relief holes?
I thought there would be enough room to drill out the holes to 7/64th to just pass the inner insulation of the cloth wire through, but there just isn't enough material to drill them out that far on the one side..
So... just standard run of the mill wiring is in order... And since that is the case I'm wondering where I put my quick disconnects..
Just opened up the board file and there should be enough clearance to open them up to 0.1" (just under 7/64). Is that too tight?
Is this the hole/pad pair that's giving problems?
Just opened up the board file and there should be enough clearance to open them up to 0.1" (just under 7/64). Is that too tight?
Is this the hole/pad pair that's giving problems?
That is part of it, but I started two adjacent holes at 7/64 (just went past the bevel on the bit) and the two holes overlapped.
Here it is with the quick disconnect and everything ready to go:
Interesting. The grid on the above image is 0.05" so that is somewhat surprising. If I make another batch I'll make them a little longer and stagger the holes to give more room.
Here it is with the quick disconnect and everything ready to go:
Looking very good indeed.
That is part of it, but I started two adjacent holes at 7/64 (just went past the bevel on the bit) and the two holes overlapped.
Here it is with the quick disconnect and everything ready to go:
Wasn't there an original problem with the standard type jack? Something about draining the battery I recall was the reason they went to another type jack.
Oh, and where did you get the wire? I'm assuming it's stranded wire?
That'll be a stereo jack. The circuit is only complete when a jack is installed. This connects the "ring and sleeve" connections of the stereo socket, which completes the circuit that powers the preamp.
But I'll admit I'm not entirely sure of how the "regular" EB MM jack with the 4 connectors works.
Got paid, so going to get the rest of the bits ordered up today
But I'll admit I'm not entirely sure of how the "regular" EB MM jack with the 4 connectors works.
Got paid, so going to get the rest of the bits ordered up today
That'll be a stereo jack. The circuit is only complete when a jack is installed. This connects the "ring and sleeve" connections of the stereo socket, which completes the circuit that powers the preamp.
But I'll admit I'm not entirely sure of how the "regular" EB MM jack with the 4 connectors works.
Got paid, so going to get the rest of the bits ordered up today
This is what I was thinking of... but I guess it's not that big of an issue afterall. This is quoted from the website that has all of the serial number info.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
At left is the non-switchable jack first used on Sting Rays.
The jack (right), introduced late 1979 (early 1980),
disconnects the battery when the guitar
lead is removed.
Initially, all pre-amps remained permanently turned on. Removal of the guitar lead did not disconnect the battery. Current drain was considered to be low enough for the battery to last its normal shelf life whether left connected or not. A newer jack was introduced late 1979 (or 1980) to disconnect the battery. This is the position to current date.
So, initially they just used a standard mono jack socket?
Wonder why they went with that black boxed socket as opposed to a stereo open one.
Also, tantalum or aluminium electrolytics for the polarised caps?
Wonder why they went with that black boxed socket as opposed to a stereo open one.
Also, tantalum or aluminium electrolytics for the polarised caps?
Rick Auricchio
Registered Bass Offender
It has PC-mount terminals, which might be a reason. They'd have the option of PC or wiring to the jack.
Either that, or it was the one readily available, at the right price, at the time they switched.
tantalum or electrolytic is a matter of personal preference. I think either one will sound great in the circuit. I went with electrolytics because Leo Fender liked them. I would try both and choose the best sounding, the caps are pretty cheap. I just learned ceramics aren't really that bad after all if they stay in spec. they have their own tone character and their slightly microphonic effect gives slight feedback that I like
Ah, good shout.
I was just wondering what differences there were really. I've always used the electrolytics in circuits, just seeing a few people here using tants and some of the original ones used tants too.
And aye, the only problem I have with ceramics is the huge tolerance range you get with the cheaper ones!
Yeah i'm using a stereo jack to disconnect the battery.
The wire is just your standard, off the shelf, 22 AWG stranded. The only reason I use anything else (like the cloth wire) is just because I like the look of it. There is no functional reason for anything crazy for this type of work, unless you want it to look special or different.
And I finally got around to testing my build with more than just an ohm meter, and boy did testing go good
I think the second one I build is going into my Warmoth P, I just need to find the right type of rebuildable stacked pots that will let me swap discs to have a treble/bass stack.
How do you mean testing? Or just that you actually played using it?
My multimeter seems to flake out with the 2M resistors, so it looks like I'm going to have to hope for the best with those :-\
My multimeter seems to flake out with the 2M resistors, so it looks like I'm going to have to hope for the best with those :-\
thats the beauty of it, your ears can be the judge. I like polyester metal film caps while other people hate them. If you use tants you won't be disappointed. I'm gonna swap out the caps on one of the preamps for ceramics to hear what it sounds like. The 1977 Stingray I once owned had ceramic caps and the tone was incredible
Rick Auricchio
Registered Bass Offender
Yes, but there are a lot of factors that contribute to tone. Capacitors are probably a minor part of the equation.
