• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre

Some people shouldn't be allowed on the internet because for some strange reason the ones that should be standing out in the cold trying to bribe the doorman always end up ruining quality online forums

Sorry I just was trying to bring a little moral content to the forum? Kind of like this guy did?

-Mark 11:15

I'm ok with standing out in the cold btw, especially if this is what's become of this forum?
 
Thankyou all for the support, it's much appreciated.

Let's put this one behind us. It's the internet, misunderstandings happen.

On a more positive note ... more build photos please!

UncleFluffy, the preamp and the microamp arrived intact, soldering begins this weekend, soundclips to follow. :D

Also, since you said you tested the board with a 741, since I only have two of those and would likely have to wait for the LM4250 to arrive, can I drop that one in? From what I recall, those two are drop-in replacements for each other.
 
UncleFluffy, the preamp and the microamp arrived intact, soldering begins this weekend, soundclips to follow. :D

Also, since you said you tested the board with a 741, since I only have two of those and would likely have to wait for the LM4250 to arrive, can I drop that one in? From what I recall, those two are drop-in replacements for each other.

Thanks for the update. Good to hear it got there OK.

From memory, the pinout is almost the same between the two, except for pin 8 - the LM4250 has a current-setting resistor there but it's not connected on the 741. I'd leave out the 1M5 resistor until the 4250 arrives just in case - the manufacturer of the 741 may have done something weird with pin 8, it sometimes happens.

It won't sound the same - probably different levels and/or response - but it will be enough to let you know if the build is alive or dead.
 
From memory, the pinout is almost the same between the two, except for pin 8 - the LM4250 has a current-setting resistor there but it's not connected on the 741. I'd leave out the 1M5 resistor until the 4250 arrives just in case - the manufacturer of the 741 may have done something weird with pin 8, it sometimes happens.

When you say leave out the 1M5, do you mean "leave unconnected" or "bypass with a jumper"? I'm assuming NC considering that'd keep the pin out-of-circuit.
 
UncleFluffy, the preamp and the microamp arrived intact, soldering begins this weekend, soundclips to follow. :D

Also, since you said you tested the board with a 741, since I only have two of those and would likely have to wait for the LM4250 to arrive, can I drop that one in? From what I recall, those two are drop-in replacements for each other.

I highly recommend that you use a socket for the opamp so that you can easily swap in and out. They are really cheap to buy.
 
I highly recommend that you use a socket for the opamp so that you can easily swap in and out. They are really cheap to buy.

Thanks for the reminder, I do have a couple of DIL-8s at home.

Okay, for all the fine people in Europe getting parts for this, Banzai Music has a lot in stock, but not all.
What they do have is all the resistors (metal films, 1% tolerance, 0.6W which should be plenty), all the pots (Alpha brand, and they even have the revlog one) and the electrolytics (radial cans, rated for 35V and 50V, again plenty), as well as a stock of LM4250s, LM386es and BC327s.

I haven't been able to find this anywhere - are polypropylene film caps unpolarized? Someone mentioned Panasonic ones sounding a tad harsh, so, would silver mica caps be a better solution?
 
Thanks for the reminder, I do have a couple of DIL-8s at home.

Okay, for all the fine people in Europe getting parts for this, Banzai Music has a lot in stock, but not all.
What they do have is all the resistors (metal films, 1% tolerance, 0.6W which should be plenty), all the pots (Alpha brand, and they even have the revlog one) and the electrolytics (radial cans, rated for 35V and 50V, again plenty), as well as a stock of LM4250s, LM386es and BC327s.

I haven't been able to find this anywhere - are polypropylene film caps unpolarized? Someone mentioned Panasonic ones sounding a tad harsh, so, would silver mica caps be a better solution?

Only the electrolytic and tantalum caps have a polarity. The mica caps, from what I've read should be fine.
 
+1 major manufacturers like TI, LT, and NS even give out free samples with free shipping. I popped in OPA1611/12's (with adapters) and LT1028/1128's with great results. They have interesting tone characters different from the LM4250's

If anyone is looking for a super bright, almost to the point of insanity, try an AD823.

That was the only 8-pin dual opamp I had laying around..
 
Ok, I need more coffee

I meant to say all I HAD laying around was an 8-pin dual opamp.

I've breadboarded the whole circuit to play with different values so pinouts don't mean much to me :)

Later today I plan on trying one of my favorites for audio work to see if it will even work.. the AD797 (if it gets here in time)
 
I just perused the thread and I'm really glad that people were so quick to jump on the soldering errors on that preamp. If I learned anything from my one single semester of electrical engineering (I QUICKLY re-found my head and went into bass performance :bassist: ) it was how to solder correctly. I got pretty darn good at it actually...once you get the hang of it it's not too bad. Promptly soldered all the wires on my car stereo :D