I added a note to my post because it seems like I'm going crazy, but posts have been deleted by another user.
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Some people shouldn't be allowed on the internet because for some strange reason the ones that should be standing out in the cold trying to bribe the doorman always end up ruining quality online forums
Thankyou all for the support, it's much appreciated.
Let's put this one behind us. It's the internet, misunderstandings happen.
On a more positive note ... more build photos please!
UncleFluffy, the preamp and the microamp arrived intact, soldering begins this weekend, soundclips to follow.
Also, since you said you tested the board with a 741, since I only have two of those and would likely have to wait for the LM4250 to arrive, can I drop that one in? From what I recall, those two are drop-in replacements for each other.
From memory, the pinout is almost the same between the two, except for pin 8 - the LM4250 has a current-setting resistor there but it's not connected on the 741. I'd leave out the 1M5 resistor until the 4250 arrives just in case - the manufacturer of the 741 may have done something weird with pin 8, it sometimes happens.
When you say leave out the 1M5, do you mean "leave unconnected" or "bypass with a jumper"? I'm assuming NC considering that'd keep the pin out-of-circuit.
UncleFluffy, the preamp and the microamp arrived intact, soldering begins this weekend, soundclips to follow.
Also, since you said you tested the board with a 741, since I only have two of those and would likely have to wait for the LM4250 to arrive, can I drop that one in? From what I recall, those two are drop-in replacements for each other.
I highly recommend that you use a socket for the opamp so that you can easily swap in and out. They are really cheap to buy.
+1!!!
it is always fun to try new op amps. you would be surprised how different they can sound.
I highly recommend that you use a socket for the opamp so that you can easily swap in and out. They are really cheap to buy.
Thanks for the reminder, I do have a couple of DIL-8s at home.
Okay, for all the fine people in Europe getting parts for this, Banzai Music has a lot in stock, but not all.
What they do have is all the resistors (metal films, 1% tolerance, 0.6W which should be plenty), all the pots (Alpha brand, and they even have the revlog one) and the electrolytics (radial cans, rated for 35V and 50V, again plenty), as well as a stock of LM4250s, LM386es and BC327s.
I haven't been able to find this anywhere - are polypropylene film caps unpolarized? Someone mentioned Panasonic ones sounding a tad harsh, so, would silver mica caps be a better solution?
+1 major manufacturers like TI, LT, and NS even give out free samples with free shipping. I popped in OPA1611/12's (with adapters) and LT1028/1128's with great results. They have interesting tone characters different from the LM4250's
If anyone is looking for a super bright, almost to the point of insanity, try an AD823.
That was the only 8-pin dual opamp I had laying around..
Only the electrolytic and tantalum caps have a polarity. The mica caps, from what I've read should be fine.
Thanks - I don't think I've seen such a concise explanation anywhere. Usually micas aren't listed with either polar or non-polar properties, and I never could figure out what the default would be.![]()
) it was how to solder correctly. I got pretty darn good at it actually...once you get the hang of it it's not too bad. Promptly soldered all the wires on my car stereo yeah Mouser screws you with ridiculous shipping costs. I only used them once.
Of all the vendors I use, Mouser is consistently the quickest and cheapest on shipping. They regularly upgrade me to overnight shipping at no cost. They charge actual shipping rates.