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Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre

#382
Yeah I have one mounted in a Hammond stomp-box-style enclosure, works just fine. I've been using it with my Warmoth P copy (250K pots) until I get a stacked alpha to rip apart and turn into a Treb/Bass stack for mounting in the bass without adding a third knob.

Retrace your steps:

did it work outside the enclosure?
what is different between then and inside?
checked to see if you have the input and output reversed?
 
#383
jumbodbassman said:
someone a few pages back talked about putting one of these in a box. did anyone do it and did it work ok. I was thinking about it but when i hooked it up to a fender bass nothing seemed to happen. i thought maybe the pot being so small didn't jive witthe 250 pots in my bass...
Click to expand...

I know the feeling. spending hours on a project and it doesn't work. what worked for me is checking all the wiring and solder joints for continuity with a multimeter. in rare cases it might be a bad component
 
#384
Spencer! said:
:eyebrow: Of all the vendors I use, Mouser is consistently the quickest and cheapest on shipping. They regularly upgrade me to overnight shipping at no cost. They charge actual shipping rates.
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+1.
I have never had a bad experience with Mouser...and I have been buying from them for years on a regular basis. I don't think shipping costs are unreasonable and I get what I order a lot quicker than with anybody else.
 
#386
I've had a couple more PMs asking about boards. My wife hurt her back moving shelving at the start of the move. It's on the mend, but it means that the move is taking longer than planned - my man-cave is pretty much still all boxed up and will probably be so at least until the end of this month. Will let everyone know when I've got the boards and the dremel unboxed.
 
#387
Thought I'd also add that I've tried the LM741 and AD843. They sound no different to my ear to the SM4250 and drop right in without needing to change a thing. Just in case anyone isn't able to get ahold of an SM4250 easily.
 
#388
Awe you rats; you scared him off.
He's pulled his ad from eBay and won't return PM's here.
Anybody have a finished, working, unit for sale (preferably an Uncle Fluffy board with proper soldering)?
 
#389
found this layout in another forum

stingraypre.png
 
#391
I've finally found and unpacked the box with the boards in. Anyone who was/is interested in the boards please shoot me a PM. (If there's anyone who thinks that I owe them a board who hasn't got one, please shoot me a PM and I'll make it right. I think I got everyone from before the move but chaos happens...)

Jim C said:
Awe you rats; you scared him off.
He's pulled his ad from eBay and won't return PM's here.
Anybody have a finished, working, unit for sale (preferably an Uncle Fluffy board with proper soldering)?
Click to expand...

brothernewt said:
+1 - I'd love to convert my SR5 but don't have the skill to build it myself.
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It's a fairly easy build, you might want to give it a try. There's plenty of folks here who'd be willing to talk you through it. Any day that gives you an excuse to buy new tools is a good day in my book...
 
#393
popped in an LT1128 opamp and WOW! great clear transparent sound at 18 volts. :bassist: It doesn't overkill with the highs. It's a current hog at 13mA :eek: but it's worth it. gonna see how long the batteries last. If battery life is short gonna figure out how to make a cable with phantom power. you can get up to 8 for free with free FedEx shipping.

Link Removed
 
#394
brothernewt said:
+1 - I'd love to convert my SR5 but don't have the skill to build it myself.
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Jason, I don't think that the SR5 ever had a 2-band preamp. Well other than the "Classic" offering currently available. I guess it would work though.

I'm still gathering the parts to do a 2-band for my '95 stingray. But I've been sidetracked building a switch pedal for my Mesa M6 amp.
 
#396
Has anyone been successful in building one of these preamps and installing it in a Stingray yet? Can you share some photos and soundclips of 3-band vs. 2-band?

Also, should the volume pot be linear or log taper? On one of the wiring diagrams it looks like there's an "L" on the 25K volume pot.
 
#397
mgb71 said:
Has anyone been successful in building one of these preamps and installing it in a Stingray yet? Can you share some photos and soundclips of 3-band vs. 2-band?

Also, should the volume pot be linear or log taper? On one of the wiring diagrams it looks like there's an "L" on the 25K volume pot.
Click to expand...

linear vs audio is subjective. if you like to play around with the volume a lot I would use a linear to get smoother volume transistions. I always leave the volume wide open so I used a log for the bass. for the preamp box I used a linear.
 
#398
BassLife77 said:
linear vs audio is subjective. if you like to play around with the volume a lot I would use a linear to get smoother volume transistions. I always leave the volume wide open so I used a log for the bass. for the preamp box I used a linear.
Click to expand...

I was just looking on musicmanbass.org and found this:

The Pre-EB pre-amps use an Audio (Log) taper pot for the Volume control which tends to bunch up the volume adjustment to the upper limit of the pot rotation. The Ernie Ball 2 Band EQ pre-amps (same as the Pre-EBs) correct this by using a Linear tapered Volume control pot to allow for a smoother adjustment throughout the whole pot rotation. The EB pot values remain the same.

Does anyone know what the frequency characteristics are of the 2-band? I found this on the Ernie Ball website for the 3-band:
bass = 40 Hz +/- 6dB
mid = 500 Hz +/- 6dB
treble = 12 kHz +/- 6dB

I'm not sure if I want to go through all of the work to build one of these preamps or just drop $175 on the John East version. The John East version of the Stingray 2-band preamp is this:
bass = 40 Hz +14/-7 dB
treble = 10 kHz +2/-16 dB

How close is the John East preamp to the original? Ultimately I'd like to get that "vintage" tone.
 
#399
For how simple and cheap it is to put this preamp together, I'd definitely say it's worth a try. It cost me less than $30 and I didn't really price around, so it could probably be done even cheaper. I don't know how it compares to a real MM preamp, but it's a huge step up, in my opinion, to the G&L preamp I replaced. I also found it to be noticeably better sounding at 18v, though it did sound really good at 9v too.
 

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