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Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre

If I were to do this. My choice would be to change the circuit so the passive bass and treble controls are replaced by the active ones on this preamp. The downside of this is that then, unlike the G&L the tone controls won't work in passive mode.

I'd replace the three way active/passive switch with a two position one that chooses either active or passive and actually turns off the preamp power in passive mode. The input to the preamp would then come from the center lug of the pickup selector switch and all the passive tone circuits etc. would be removed.

If you want to keep the passive tone controls then there's no reason to change the preamp as the G&L circuit is very much like the new one.

Good luck.

This is pretty much exactly what I'm going to do. The main reason why I want to do this mod is because the two preamps seem to use to the same chip. I like the sound of the G&L pickups, but I don't like having an active preamp with passive tone pots. I never like how the bass tone cut sounded anyways. To me, this will make my bass much more useful.
 
BassLife77 nailed it with Harbor Freight for the 0.8mm bits. I picked up a package on my way home from work. I didn't have a coupon so they were $3.99. But this was way cheaper than what I found online.

Here is the list of parts that I found at Invalid Link Removed

The prices might be a bit higher here but with having to pay shipping from each supplier it can get costly. So Mouser seemed to be the one-stop seller.

I wasn't sure if the mica caps were the way to go but they have got to sound better than ceramic discs.

you won't be disappointed with the silver mica caps. I used them in both preamps and they sound great. I used Nichicon for the rest of the caps from advice from audiophile forums. from trial and error I found out the .047 cap in the circuit shapes a lot of the tone. every cap I put there had a different sound. Nichicon to my ears sounded a little better than the Panasonics.
 
Here's the diagram I put together for what I want to do with my L2500:

4643101119_39c0ea960d_o.jpg


It seems to be correct to me. Can anybody else verify it? The active/passive switch is suppose to disconnect battery in passive mode, but I'm not sure if I did it right.
 
The series/parallel switch has me scratching my head, but it's possibly right and my brain is just fried (3:15 am here).

I'd use a TRS jack.

Connect the ring to the switch as you have, and the sleeve to a ground elsewhere in the bass.

As it stands, you don't have a ground? Other than that, the active/passive switch looks fine.

The series/parallel is exactly how G&L does it. That won't be changed on my bass. As far as grounding, the pots are touching the shielding, which is grounded. This is also stock. Unless I'm missing grounding somewhere. The TRS jack makes sense, so I'll make that change.
 
Well that'll be right then! I would still make solder connections to the ground, just provides a better connection than being held together. But that's me.

The ground has to be connected to the sleeve of the jack socket, which was what was missing.

Yeah, with all the pedal I've put together, I'm surprised I forgot to bring the ground to the output jack. I'll go with your advice to make solder connections to the ground. Thanks for the help!
 
Update: I have some boards left, but I'm moving house so will not be able to mail out any more for a couple of weeks. Everyone who has asked for one up to this point should have one on the way.

I got mine today, too! Dispite the USPS's best efforts to chew up the envelope. Yes UncleFluffy IS the man. The board is absolutely beautiful. Thank you so much!

I need to get busy and order up the caps and get to stuffing the board.

Now I DO INSIST on sending the Brewski + shipping funds your way to quench your thirst from moving. This was the deal and you've gone way beyond what you originally intended. Is your PP address the same as the one in your note?
 
Now I DO INSIST on sending the Brewski + shipping funds your way to quench your thirst from moving. This was the deal and you've gone way beyond what you originally intended. Is your PP address the same as the one in your note?

Well, one beer is plenty, but I'm not one to turn down another beer if offered, especially with the amount of work I'm going to have to do to the back yard in the new place. That would be an instant man-card violation.

But, please, no beer until you have a working preamp. That's only fair.
 
I wired up my G&L L2500 today with the preamp. My only problem is that the active mode is significantly quieter than the passive mode. Any ideas on what could cause this?

I'm not sure, myself. The output impedance of this design is somewhat higher than I'd like to see in a preamp, but that may not be the problem at all. Is anyone else experiencing this, or is it just domdec314?
 
The bass drives the passive input in passive mode so I always use the active input. I'm comparing the volumes to how it was with the old preamp. Before, the preamp was a little bit louder than passive. Now the new preamp is significantly quieter than passive. Both preamps use the the same chip so I assumed they'd have similar volumes, but I could be wrong.
 
Awaiting my model with bated breath. Hopefully it'll breathe life into an otherwise lifeless Yammy RBX375. :D

domdec314 Thanks for the schematic - the bypass schematic really comes in handy. Would you happen to know if it's possible to create a bypassing system so in one position you give control to the pre, and in the other you have a simple passive tone control?