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Stingray aftermarket 2 band pre

#262
i_got_a_mohawk said:
Your bass has a switch the changes between active and passive and another one that turns the preamp on and off? That seems a bit of a waste?
Click to expand...

Sorry about the mislabel. In my head the active/passive switch is an on/off switch. I know that's not how it technically works, but I tend to think of it that way. I figured I'd have to replace that switch since the G&L has a 3-position for passive/active/active w/hi boost. The diagram you posted should work nicely, thanks.
 
#263
domdec314 said:
Sorry about the mislabel. In my head the active/passive switch is an on/off switch. I know that's not how it technically works, but I tend to think of it that way. I figured I'd have to replace that switch since the G&L has a 3-position for passive/active/active w/hi boost. The diagram you posted should work nicely, thanks.
Click to expand...

Ah right, it was just this bit:

"Would it be possible to keep the 3 switches I currently have, (pickup selector switch, active/passive switch, and preamp on/off switch)"

That threw me.

Hope it helps!

-Will
 
#265
Here's one I just soldered up as a tester:

DSCN1662.jpg


First observation: unless you're using really fine wire to connect up your bass, the holes on each end of the board are going to be a tight fit. These are just for mechanical relief of strain on the wires so can be opened out with a small drill bit if needed.
 
#266
domdec314 said:
Ah, I see what I did. The last switch should be series/parallel.
Click to expand...

Series/parallel shouldn't be a problem either, you should be able to wire that in before the pickup selector switch.

Tho, as you said, staying true to the preamp, the method I described would give you a "straight to jack" setup for passive mode.

You could always use a trim pot in place of the volume pot on the preamp, and wire up a passive volume, probably before the preamp and the bypass switch in the circuit, but after the pickup selector. You could use the trim pot to fine tune the volume in active mode.



UncleFluffy said:
Here's one I just soldered up as a tester:

DSCN1662.jpg


First observation: unless you're using really fine wire to connect up your bass, the holes on each end of the board are going to be a tight fit. These are just for mechanical relief of strain on the wires so can be opened out with a small drill bit if needed.
Click to expand...

Looks good!
 
#267
First observation: unless you're using really fine wire to connect up your bass, the holes on each end of the board are going to be a tight fit. These are just for mechanical relief of strain on the wires so can be opened out with a small drill bit if needed.
Click to expand...

I built mine with 22 gauge wire so I used a 1 mm bit for the wire holes. I used .8 mm for the rest of the holes. To make drilling easier I notched each hole with a small nail before drilling. The reason I was breaking bits on the first board is because I was pushing the drill instead of letting the bit do the work :hiding:
 
#268
BassLife77 nailed it with Harbor Freight for the 0.8mm bits. I picked up a package on my way home from work. I didn't have a coupon so they were $3.99. But this was way cheaper than what I found online.

Here is the list of parts that I found at Invalid Link Removed

The prices might be a bit higher here but with having to pay shipping from each supplier it can get costly. So Mouser seemed to be the one-stop seller.

I wasn't sure if the mica caps were the way to go but they have got to sound better than ceramic discs.

Mouser #: 5982-15-500V500
Mfr. #: CD15FD501JO3
Manufacturer: Cornell Dubilier
Desc.: Mica Capacitors MICA 500PF500VJ
($1.77 each)

Mouser #: 667-ECQ-V1473JM
Mfr. #: ECQ-V1473JM
Desc.: Polyester Film Capacitors .047uF 100V 5%
($0.11 each)

Mouser #: 140-PF2A182J
Mfr. #: 140-PF2A182J
Desc.: Polyester Film Capacitors CAP 100V .0018uF 5%
($0.12 each)

Mouser #: 598-CDV16FF121JO3F
Mfr. #: CDV16FF121JO3F
Desc.: Mica Capacitors 120pF 1000V +/-5%
($1.12 each)

Mouser #: 140-MLRL50V10-TB
Mfr. #: 140-MLRL50V10-TB
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded SUB-MINI 50V 10uF
($0.12 each) quantity of 2

Mouser #: 647-USL1H010MDD
Mfr. #: USL1H010MDD
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 1uF 4x7 20% 1.5LS
($0.20 each) quantity of 3

Mouser #: 660-MF1/4LCT52R225J
Mfr. #: MF1/4LCT52R225J
Desc.: Metal Film Resistors 1/4 WATT 2.2M OHM 5%
($0.05 each)

Mouser #: 71-CCF071.5M5%TR
Mfr. #: CCF071M50JKR36
Desc.: Metal Film Resistors 1/4watt 1.5Mohms 5% Rated to 1/2watt
($0.06 each)

Mouser #: 660-MF1/2LCT52R224J
Mfr. #: MF1/2LCT52R224J
Desc.: Metal Film Resistors 1/2 WATT 220K OHM 5%
($0.14 each)

Mouser #: 66-CMO1/21003JLFTR
Mfr. #: CMO1/21003JLFTR
Desc.: Metal Film Resistors 1/2W 100K ohm 5%
($0.05 each)

Mouser #: 660-MF1/4LCT52R103J
Mfr. #: MF1/4LCT52R103J
Desc.: Metal Film Resistors 1/4 WATT 10K OHM 5%
($0.05 each)

I am planning on building the whole enchilada with the pots and the control plate so that I can keep my orginal preamp setup intact. This is really more of an experiment for me. I do like the tone of my '95 stingray 3-band as this gives me another flavor along with my Pre-EBMM StingRay with a 2-band pre.
 
#271
i_got_a_mohawk said:
Are you guys building up with an LM4250?

Anyone know of anywhere to buy them, I'm only finding them on ebay :-\

[edit]

Had a look on the US ebay, def. some better options there. Beats the £15 the UK seller wants!

Question still stands tho, anyone using these or is there a modern equivilant that could be used?
Click to expand...

I bought through Taydae at Uncle Fuzzy's recommendation. It seemed to take a couple of weeks to get them as they were supposedly shipped from Viet Nam.

For those who haven't been able to source the op-amp, I found this place:

Invalid Link Removed

(no affiliation)

Just ordered some from there myself. Will report if there's any problems.
Click to expand...



They did have a minimum order so I bought four of the opamps, sockets and some tantalum caps.
 
#278
Just mailed out a bunch of boards and caught up on my PMs. I'm moving house at the minute so things may slip between the cracks - if you're expecting a reply to a PM and haven't got one, please poke me again.

US boards shipped first-class letter, outside the US have shipped as airmail letters. ETA should therefore be < 1 week inside the US, < 2 weeks outside.
 
#279
UncleFluffy said:
Just mailed out a bunch of boards and caught up on my PMs. I'm moving house at the minute so things may slip between the cracks - if you're expecting a reply to a PM and haven't got one, please poke me again.

US boards shipped first-class letter, outside the US have shipped as airmail letters. ETA should therefore be < 1 week inside the US, < 2 weeks outside.
Click to expand...

YOW! I just noticed this thread! I'm dying to mod my OLP with one of these. How do I get in on the action? What's the cost for the boards. I want to have several! You guys have really done a job here!

Do I email UncleFluffy to get details?
 
#280
domdec314 said:
I'm thinking about putting this in my G&L L2500 bass. Would it be possible to keep the 3 switches I currently have, (pickup selector switch, series/parallel switch, and active/passive switch) and use them with this preamp?

EDIT: Looking at the G&L more, I see how I could add the pickup selector and series/parallel switches, but I'm not sure how to add the preamp on/off switch. For it to be a useful bypass I'd need a passive volume control (250k or 500k) but the diagram on this thread shows an active volume (25k). My guess is that I'd wire the volume pot like a normal passive bass and bypass the volume pot on the stingray diagram so that the preamp is full volume. If you look at the diagram, I think it would mean taking the wire that would normally go to "top of volume control" and having it instead go to "output jack socket". Does this sound like it would work?
Click to expand...

You could use this on a G&L but you'd have to think about how you do it. First off the pickups selector switch and series/parallel switch all take place ahead of the preamp so those don't matter. In a G&L the preamp is just active gain and has no tone conrols. The tone controls are passive and take place ahead of the preamp.

The preamp active/passive switch has three positions. passive which switches the preamp out of the circuit... but note that on a G&L the preamp is ALWAYS ON so long as the cord is plugged in to the bass even in passive mode! In passive it is just bypassed. The next position inserts the preamp (which has a slight boost to highs). And the final position also inserts the preamp but adjusts a resistor in the treble circuit to give a large boost to highs.

If I were to do this. My choice would be to change the circuit so the passive bass and treble controls are replaced by the active ones on this preamp. The downside of this is that then, unlike the G&L the tone controls won't work in passive mode.

I'd replace the three way active/passive switch with a two position one that chooses either active or passive and actually turns off the preamp power in passive mode. The input to the preamp would then come from the center lug of the pickup selector switch and all the passive tone circuits etc. would be removed.

If you want to keep the passive tone controls then there's no reason to change the preamp as the G&L circuit is very much like the new one.

Good luck.
 

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