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Stingray Classic 5, string help.

Correct me if I am wrong on this: low tension roundwounds contribute to "clanking".

It really depends on your setup and technique.

^^^This^^^

When I tried the DR Sunbeams (ie flexible) for the first time, my J bass had been wearing a set of Chromes flats (ie stiff) for 4 years. So, the first thing I needed to do was to increase the relief/action on the bass slightly, and then learn to pluck with a lighter touch to keep them from "clanking".
 
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I have heard a lot of positive feedback regarding LoRider Nickel, Sunbeam's and SB Nps on a Stingray. I probably can't go wrong with either. I also read that the Fodera Nickel's are in right in the middle in terms of flexibility in between the Sunbeam's and the LoRider's, and they also supposedly have great harmonics. But they are expensive and hard to find. So maybe I should just stick with one of the three listed above, oh wait there's the DM Helix NPS. ...
 
I have heard a lot of positive feedback regarding LoRider Nickel, Sunbeam's and SB Nps on a Stingray. I probably can't go wrong with either. I also read that the Fodera Nickel's are in right in the middle in terms of flexibility in between the Sunbeam's and the LoRider's, and they also supposedly have great harmonics. But they are expensive and hard to find. So maybe I should just stick with one of the three listed above, oh wait there's the DM Helix NPS. ...
I've had these three on my ray, and Fender flats, and Fodera nickels (which I had on it the longest) as well as Kaliums and a bunch of strings I don't remember.

I think you would like a rather stiff string. Why not try the heaviest set Fodera nickels (BSO aren't very hard to find) if you want a light version or any gauge Kaliums for the tension you like, or the medium or stiff set of LaBellas very dark stainless steel Deep talkin' rounds? <- those are my recommendation for you when thinking about it, them on a ray would be terrific. Now where is my string box were I put my old DT rounds...

Oh wait sorry, only stock gauges? Why in the- okay, well then maybe you should check out Sadowsky Blue label or something! That criteria, whyever it was chosen, really narrows down your choices!

Good luck in finding something that fits your technique.
 
Yes, BSO is an option but for me it is a bit cumbersome; I live in Canada and I have to pay extra shipping, duty and brokerage fees/charges. I have a shipping address in the USA but that too gets expensive after declaring them at the border. It's not to say that I won't buy string this way but it would so much better if they were available locally, which is why I am thinking about the SB NPS - I think these would be a fairly readily available string.

How were those Fedora's on the Ray??
 
The fodera nickels were my favourite rounds wound, and they complimented the Ray beautifully for me, but I much prefer the Dunlop SB nickels to the foderas or any other round wound nowadays when I want a modern tone.

The foderas are long lasting, feel good but not too stiff or loose for my technique, and really brings out the nuances in your playing. Great harmonics and a general very musical tone, really high quality strings that are cheap when bought in a bundle.

I also played a lot DR like you before switching to the foderas, and I liked them better for the same reasons I liked the different DRs I had, Fat Beams being their last string I played regularly.

After the foderas I tried kalium, which I liked the feel of a lot but not the tone as much as I did the foderas.

But as I said, when comparing the Dunlop SP nickels to any of those strings it is a no brainer, The Dunlop feels and sounds the best for me, and last the longest.

Why do you only want stock gauges?
 
In terms of stiffness how would you compare the Fodera's to the Dunlop SB's? Are the SB's a little looser? I am not opposed to expiramenting with different string guages. The nut on the Stingray is cut for a .045, .065, .080, .100, .130 set, I don't want to deviate too much from that (I can probably go .005 either way) because I don't want the string to "wallow" in the nut. I'll probably use a .040 light set if I go with the LoRider's and add a .130 or if I go with the SB'S I'll buy the 6 string set with the .130
 
To me the SB feel a bit ''looser'' than the foderas in the same gauge, but none of them are really stiff

OK, that info helps. I checked the pricing:
Fodera: $35
DM Helix N: $27
S Bright N: $22 (6 string set to get the .130)
LoRider N .040 - .100: $31, add .130 B $10.

I am still really interested in those Dean Markley Helix nickel, I can't seem to find a much about them online. All said and done I think the SB's are the winner.