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Stoner/Doom Bassist Thread Part 13: The Lost Thread
- Thread starter ampegfuzz
- Start date
Looks great without the PG imo. Filling the holes is easy, but I don't know what you would do to paint over them once they're filled or w/e.
quick question: (I dare not post this in Basses, for fear of a huge conflagration aimed my way) if you had an all mahogany bass, let's say my old Hamer Cruise, and you put in TB pickups, would it sound the same as a TB?
Goof off with take that paint off and not hurt the guard. I've done it. Used it on a whole bass before and took spray paint off a Gibson Flying V neck with it with no harm done.
EDIT:
http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/products/goof-off-graffiti-remover/16oz-aerosol-voc-compliant
Agreed! I actually have an Epi Les Paul Traditional Pro too. The stock PU's were surprisingly good, but I went with Dimarzio Super Distortion/PAF Pro humbuckers. Wicked combo on a Les Paul for heavy stuff.
I'm not dissatisfied with the stock T-bird pickups to be honest. They sound great. I just have a hard time not modding stuff.
Also, on a sad note. I somehow managed to crack the cheap plastic input jack on my vintage Green Russian Bubble Font Big Muff. This must mean it's time for Switchcraft jacks. It pains me to not keep it stock, but those stock jacks suck.
Exactly. People describe them as mud and not balancing very well, but I always loved the look of the T-bird.
If I get all my gear need list taken care of (lol), A t-bird is on my want list.
P Bass
T-bird
SG
Is my Bass GAS list. Thanks to Kawai, I'll be scratching the P off my list soon.
T-bird and SG, maybe. One day. And when presented the chance, I'll probably go with a Fenderbird (a la Cataldo basses).
man i have been ****ing busy at work. i'll have to catch up on the thread at lunch.
in reference to my question i had before, about the dudes with all the cabs - you said there needs to be a matched load, nick? does that mean i'd ideally run all cabs of the same impedance to really see a volume/air moving benefit?
2x 4 ohm cabs + 1x 8 ohm cab in series would be a bad idea then, i take it?
in reference to my question i had before, about the dudes with all the cabs - you said there needs to be a matched load, nick? does that mean i'd ideally run all cabs of the same impedance to really see a volume/air moving benefit?
2x 4 ohm cabs + 1x 8 ohm cab in series would be a bad idea then, i take it?
Sweet T-bird Jerry McD. I had a "Goth" one for awhile that had a royally twisted/****ed up neck that I ended up selling to pawn america. It did sound massive, if I had the cash I would have put a new neck on it but that would cost me more than I paid for it and I needed the trade-in cash for a playable bass pronto. Oh well.
So I haven't spoken to guitar/singer dude since friday's cancelled recording session. Finally emailed him today saying that his self-doubt and anxiety are sucking the fun out of the band, which is true. Gave him one last pep talk before saying that I can't be his counselor and I don't want to listen to any more worries or self-deprecation. There's a limit to how much a friend can be asked to do and I think I've hit that limit. So we'll see how that goes over.
So I haven't spoken to guitar/singer dude since friday's cancelled recording session. Finally emailed him today saying that his self-doubt and anxiety are sucking the fun out of the band, which is true. Gave him one last pep talk before saying that I can't be his counselor and I don't want to listen to any more worries or self-deprecation. There's a limit to how much a friend can be asked to do and I think I've hit that limit. So we'll see how that goes over.
Agreed. Lots of the earlier Epi T-birds and Gibson T-birds have a route under the pickguard. I was excited not to see one.
The general fix is to fill the holes with pegs, level, spot sand, stain/color, then drop-fill with multiple coats of poly/laquer until it's just higher than surrounding finish. Then scrape level with a burr scraper, spot sand with high grit, then polish with a rotary buffer. It's quite the process to do it "right".
AmpegFuzz, I actually let the guard soak in mineral spirits overnight, and that got most of the gunk off. It seems the kid may have used some sort of ink on it initially, as there are stains in the plastic itself as well as some harder than paint epoxy looking crap on it. Attached is a pic of the guard after paint removal. Thanks for the link though!
Yeah, I guess when I think about it, it's a pedal I'll never get rid of, regardless of it's inflating value, so making it work well is worth something regardless of the fact that it may hurt collector value.
I currently have mine in a loop, but maybe tbp would be a good option while I'm in there. I have a black Russian Muff with a tone bypass switch, Germanium clipping switch, "fat" switch, and creamy dreamer mod switch that kicks ass with guitar, highly recommended. The green Russian takes the cake for bass use though.
The Janitor, thanks man. I contemplated a "Goth" model, but heard they show fingerprints really bad with the flat black and all. Decided to go more classic with the burst instead. Both rad for sure.
Looks better without the pickguard. Maybe order a black or tort replacement for it? Then you wouldn't have to mess with filling the holes.
Actually looks pretty slick without a pickguard. You don't see that look on my Tbirds.
Hell Yeah!!!
Not sure how needing a new computer will impact this project. Might be shelved like everything else has been lately. I only need $70 in pickguards...stupid marcus miller pickguard.
I wish I could of got a Gibby humbucker in my Wawrick without modding it. But I do like the Bartolini.
Same for me in standard. Would not stay in tune. Took it to a tech to have the neck bent so the action was better. ended up selling it. Sounded awesome otherwise. I should have kept it as I only paid $250.
Corey, Janitor, Agreed. I dig it. I looked at replacement guards. Unless I want a blank guard (which if I sanded down the one I have would be the same) they are going for over $50. It's crazy. I've never seen pickguards, especially such a simple design, go for so much. That damn T-bird stamp must cost a poopon. heheh. If I did go back to a guard, it's be black or dark tort for sure. Unless it's going to cost me hundreds, I'll probably opt to get the holes filled.
I would just get a dark marker and if any wood is showing inside the screw holes touch it up, or jsut screw the black screws back in.
