Schallers are. I pointed that out in my post.
Whereas Dunlop uses a larger than stock screw. So it fits properly tight, and after over 30 years of using them I haven't had a Dunlop screw come out.
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Strap Lock Repair Help
- Thread starter ThomasTronics
- Start date
Schallers are. I pointed that out in my post.
Whereas Dunlop uses a larger than stock screw. So it fits properly tight, and after over 30 years of using them I haven't had a Dunlop screw come out.
I missed that, thank you. I always tried to use the original screw from the bass, if it would fit in the Schiller strap button. I never really liked Dunlops design. Had them on one bass and I didn't care for them.
Long time woodworker here. Toothpicks are CA glue are fine. Don't use gel glue. Regular super glue is fine. You might try a test fit before gluing. Coat each toothpick before you ram it in. Use as many as possible. Don't glue your fingers together. Also check the button other end of the bass. Schallers can loosen up.
I agree that Schaller screws are problematic, so many times I glue mine in.
I agree that Schaller screws are problematic, so many times I glue mine in.
As a furniture maker for 35 years, if the people poo-pooing that repair knew how many woodworkers use toothpicks, matchsticks, or shavings with or without glue to fix a stripped hole, they'd faint.
Crap, I've seen this repair in 1800's antiques still holding well.
Drilling for a dowel is great with the right tools. The problem is the average "carpenter" typically might only have basic fractional bits or the bit may wiggle with a handheld drill. Most store bought dowels are undersized or otherwise far from precisely sized. To do it as accurately and perfectly as many picture would require either an oversized dowel turned down to match the hole or a good set of number drills to fit the hole to the available dowel.
Dowels typically used in joinery are fluted to best fit a hole and allow excess glue to escape. The inside of the strap button hole is already rough, as it was once threaded with a larger screw. once the toothpick or matchstick is compressed into the existing rough areas, the screw will bite into the tighter hole. The glue is just insurance if the screw is ever removed again.
Thanks, great stuff!As a furniture maker for 35 years, if the people poo-pooing that repair knew how many woodworkers use toothpicks, matchsticks, or shavings with or without glue to fix a stripped hole, they'd faint.
Crap, I've seen this repair in 1800's antiques still holding well.
Drilling for a dowel is great with the right tools. The problem is the average "carpenter" typically might only have basic fractional bits or the bit may wiggle with a handheld drill. Most store bought dowels are undersized or otherwise far from precisely sized. To do it as accurately and perfectly as many picture would require either an oversized dowel turned down to match the hole or a good set of number drills to fit the hole to the available dowel.
Dowels typically used in joinery are fluted to best fit a hole and allow excess glue to escape. The inside of the strap button hole is already rough, as it was once threaded with a larger screw. once the toothpick or matchstick is compressed into the existing rough areas, the screw will bite into the tighter hole. The glue is just insurance if the screw is ever removed again.
- Sep 4, 2010
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One of the top luthiers in the country fixed my similar problem (an AVRI jazz bass with a quite soft alder body) with toothpicks and a lil woodglue. Worked perfectly.
Whatever you do, you do want that screw to be able to come out again, the way it is supposed to, by unscrewing it.
Whatever you do, you do want that screw to be able to come out again, the way it is supposed to, by unscrewing it.
yeah, that's what I worry about with epoxy - not a problem with white or wood glue. But with epoxy, I'd be sure to back the screw out completely before it all sets, then re-screw it in after it's set and cold.
Typical Dunlop problem.
Those "orange washers" are typically from Grolsch beer tops.
Have a delicious drink and buy a bass a dedicated strap that suits its look and genre you use it in. Win/win.
Almost every major brand now also offeres its own branded rubber washers for this purpose. "Ish" are probably least expensive, and come in bulk, other than visiting a hardware or plumbing store.
No problem putting bass with a strap in cases, hard or soft or bag. With strap locks, like Dunlop for example which is another common problem with those due to the pointed ends, you eventually find a hole in the bottom of your gigbag, which could lead to worse, or they don't fit into many hard cases.
Not to mention th peril in trying to lean your instrument against something with the strap on while balancing it on the unnecessary prone-to-failure strap lock hardware.
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Mmmmmm. Unless it spends too much time under fluorescents, then it gets stinky skunky. UV ruins hops taste.
Dunlop recessed. You take a 3/8” drill bit and drill a big ol hole 1/2” deep. The new screw will wide enough to bite and it’s going to be 1/2” deeper because of the recessed well. They say to use a smaller drill bit too to account for increased depth. I’d say just put some wood glue on the screw and tighten that b down.
Don`t know how many "wrong" answers there are out there but I`ve gone with longer screws, or fatter screws, both with a dab of super glue and have had ZERO problems. On wider screws, I`ve had to, on occasion, had to "waller-out" the strap lock in order for it to fit. I don`t change locks once they`re on.
Not a solution but for prevention, I use Ernie Ball Super Locks, they use the same threading as factory Fender, EBMM, etc.
I’ve had Dunlop’s and Schallers rip out of my basses but not the Super Locks.
They also have a lip that you can use a regular strap with, in a pinch.
I’ve had Dunlop’s and Schallers rip out of my basses but not the Super Locks.
They also have a lip that you can use a regular strap with, in a pinch.
I always mod my straplocks as soon as I install them with a longer screw. Takes a little drilling usually. But to answer your question....I have the means, the tools, the experience, probably even the right sized dowel lying around to do the drill it out, put in a dowel and re drill. BUT what I DO is wooden match sticks and titebond woodworking glue. Never had a pull out as long as I have that longer screw in there.
Having replaced the strap buttons on several Fender basses with Fender/Schaller strap locks, I really want to know why the screws that come with FENDER branded strap locks are absolutely worthless on a Fender instrument. The original Fender strap button screws are a different size altogether, and the head is just barely too wide to fit in the strap lock button. So if you don't have a tool to grind the head down, you're kind of stuck with unusable hardware despite staying in-brand with your mod.
Regarding the Grolsch bottle stopper trick, I thought that was so hip and cool and brilliant and tried it years ago. Thing is, the back-and-forth movement of the strap while playing caused the stopper to move as well, and being rubber it had a grip on the button and would unscrew itself which eventually stripped out the threads. Never again with that.
Regarding the Grolsch bottle stopper trick, I thought that was so hip and cool and brilliant and tried it years ago. Thing is, the back-and-forth movement of the strap while playing caused the stopper to move as well, and being rubber it had a grip on the button and would unscrew itself which eventually stripped out the threads. Never again with that.
I had to do that years ago with my old Warwick Thumb. I can't remember if I installed Dunlops or Schallers, but the supplied screws were much smaller than the original Warwick ones. So much smaller they just dropped into the hole! My dad got his angle grinder out and reshaped the original screw heads to fit the new strap buttons. A bit of a faff, but it worked.
Certainly a much better solution than just using the supplied screws, which is what I did the first time I ever put these strap locks on a bass--you can imagine how that turned out.
Thankfully I have since purchased a Dremel.
Are you sure you want to repair it? Won't it be easier to buy a new one? You will find the broken piece almost in all instrumental shops. Also, an option would be to contact locksmith sw6 and see if they deal with the sort of locks. They'll definitely figure a way out by providing the best services and solutions.
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