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String Height Problem w/ BABICZ FCH

parsons

parsons

Feb 22, 2008
1,296
11
Maryland
www.myspace.com
#1
Yesterday i started mocking up a budget parts bass. After installing the Babicz bridge, I couldnt get the string height adjustment to go high enough to set the action to a playable level. After fiddling with the truss rod and allowing some time for the strings and neck to settle, it seems to have allowed the strings just enough space. I mean just barely enough for super low action. This would be someone who plays low actions wet dream, but I can have a heavy right hand at times and usually like to allow a little higher setup to avoid clankyness. I have checked the thickness of the heel of the neck and compared it to the thicknesses of several MIA Fender necks I have laying around and its the same if not thinner. If anything, the neck Im using is thinner because Ive sanded it down and refinished it. So perhaps the neck pocket on the body is cutting more shallow because the factory neck for this body isnt as thick as its counterparts?

I am going to check into a few other things like how high the stock bridge saddles will go compared to the Babicz. Just wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue, I know my setup is Frankenstein but its not like Im using Gibson, Fender and Warwick stuff all in one build here. Parts are listed below.

Squier VM Jaguar PJ loaded body- full scale
Made in Korea Squier Jazz neck - slimmed down with a rasp, files and sandpaper to make a Geddy neck look like a P neck!
Babicz FCH Bridge for standard Fender 5 hole mounting pattern
New set of Chrome Flats, standard size.
 
#2
You could try shimming the neck close to the outer edge of the neck pocket which would angle the neck slightly forwards. This would effectively give you the required increase in string height. Hope this helps.
 
#5
pj_paul said:
You could try shimming the neck close to the outer edge of the neck pocket which would angle the neck slightly forwards. This would effectively give you the required increase in string height. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

This is the most workable idea. Remember that whatever you need the action to be @F12, the bridge has to be adjusted twice that amount, i.e.--if you need the action to come up 1/8" (.125")
the bridge would have to come up 1/4" (.250").
 
#6
Picked up the bass this morning for a brief minute. The action has come up a bit more. I remembered that the neck was sitting without strings on its previous body for a few months but the truss had tension. I'm going to let it sit another few days and see where it goes. I played it for a few minutes and it's pretty nice.

The nut is perfect. I think most of lies within the babicz bridge having limited vertical height from it's starting position. If it comes down to shimming, the bridge will go and I'll use a trusty baddass II like every other Fender I have. The babicz does have a great tone and sustain to it though.
 
#7
Must be the parts bass thing. The babicz on my little MIM j gives me plenty of adjustment on either side of the kinda high setting I prefer.
 
#9
parsons said:
I'm not so sure, the height of the frets/ fingerboard in relation to the bridge area of the body is the same as my other 7 fenders....
Click to expand...

Then it must be variation in parts between basses as that much variation in a cast metal part would surely be grounds for rejection from QA. it can't be magic and the babicz works just fine on mine and as I said before, I like mine a bit on the high side and it's not near all the way up when set to my liking. Could it be the difference between a squire and an MIM maybe?

A friend has a babicz on his (MIA) highway 1 j and he really likes it as well. I've played his bass and the action is even higher than mine. Based on playing my friend's highway 1 I actually bought a babicz to put on my highway 1, but I've decided to give the (stock) BA an honest try before making any changes.
 
#10
check your neck pocket ... if its a very snug fit make sure you're getting it properly
seated. I had the same issue once. took off the neck. Made sure there was no loose
material, got a flat fit into the pocket, then made sure I got all the screws in equally but not tight. The last step I did was to crank down on the rear seated screws first, then the front two.
 
#11
WillieB said:
........ The last step I did was to crank down on the rear seated screws first, then the front two.
Click to expand...

This can be an extremely important factor. Wood (softer woods especially) may not maintain the exact same position - and in a musical instrument (or boat, etc) the demands for repeatable positioning may be of utmost importance. In some scenarios there is actually little chance of getting true repeatability with bolting soft to more firm woods. Very often misalignment of the neck can fractionally misplace the string (length-wise) or neck / body plain angle.

There ARE adjustable angle gauges used in metal working that measure extremely fine angle sets. If neck / body angle is producing problems, an investment in a less expensive one can often save a great deal of frustration.
 
#12
So it's coming along...
After making sure the neck pocket was good to go and alignment was fine, I realized something- I had this neck sitting on another body without string tension but the truss had tension. so after putting it all together, relieving some truss tension and letting sit with new set of chrome flats on it, it's playable!
 

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