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String Retainer and Bridge
- Thread starter aparker82
- Start date
I use some roller string tree replacements on a few basses I build. Kinda kewl - neat, even - not necessary - but sweet looking.
That's a fiver, so I have no idea on a bridge although I see no possible need for, nor do I personally have a desire for a high-mass piece of expensive non-musically enhancing myths on any basses I own, build or repair.
That's a fiver, so I have no idea on a bridge although I see no possible need for, nor do I personally have a desire for a high-mass piece of expensive non-musically enhancing myths on any basses I own, build or repair.
Those are some awesome looking string trees, never seen that before.
High mass bridge doesn't help the sound?
A high mass bridge CAN potentially alter the sound. But it's subtle, and usually if it does make a big difference it means your old bridge wasn't functioning properly. If the bridge already on it works then don't worry about it. But a gotoh 201 is cheap and very nice if you must replace it.
The point to my question was that sound is subjective. There's really no "good" or "bad" tones... just tones. All that said, changing from a standard Fender design bridge to a "high mass bridge" will definitely change the tone, but the general tonal nature of the instrument will still be there. Myself, I like the tones produced on my P & J instruments with the stock bridges.
Since you just ordered this instrument, why don't you simply play it for a while and see what you like or don't like about the tone... then go from there? Unless the fun for you is modifying instruments.
At the end of the day, talking about tone is like dancing about perfume.
It's this way. People always call the bent plate bridges crappy. They're not crappy they're just fine. In many players eyes they love the tone of their Fender.
So why would they want to CHANGE IT?
That's right, they don't WANT to change it, so they play on with the stocker with perfect intonation, enough sustain that will still ring long enough for that single note fade at the end of Vaseline by STP and a bridge that lasts 50 years like the one on my 1962 jazz.
IMHO, IME, nudge nudge, wink wink and all that jazz.
It helps if it gets you closer to a sound or spacing you're after. It hurts if you prefer the original Fender sound. I leave my Fenders stock and they work just fine... for me.
I don't think the L plate is crappy, I just don't care for the way it lets my strings move when I'm playing. It's a matter of function for me. if it works for you then it's what you should use.
I would never advocate changing a bridge for any other reason than personal preference. it is after all your bass, so if it blows your dress up to replace the bridge, then by all means do so and don't worry about all those who think it's just fine to put all manner of non OEM strings on a bass, monkey endlessly with pick guards, controls, pickups, machine heads, strap buttons, etc., but get apoplectic if swapping bridges is mentioned.
I've never had a bridge like that move around. Any idea why yours would? For instance are you playing that hard?
I've had that happen as well with totally flat Squier and Wilkinson bridges.
I prefer a bridge with a groove(s) for either the outside, or all saddles to ride in that really stops any lateral movement.
fhm555, based on my experience with the Squier VM Jazz V (same bridge) I don't think you will find one that matches the existing holes exactly.
String spacing on the original 6-hole bridge is 18mm, and I used an Allparts high mass bridge. Since you will need to "fill and drill" to get it mounted, get any bridge you like with 18mm (.0708") spacing and you'll be good to go.
All the best,
Bob
I prefer a bridge with a groove(s) for either the outside, or all saddles to ride in that really stops any lateral movement.
fhm555, based on my experience with the Squier VM Jazz V (same bridge) I don't think you will find one that matches the existing holes exactly.
String spacing on the original 6-hole bridge is 18mm, and I used an Allparts high mass bridge. Since you will need to "fill and drill" to get it mounted, get any bridge you like with 18mm (.0708") spacing and you'll be good to go.
All the best,
Bob
Hi Brad. No I have a pretty light touch.
Its been more of an issue for me when transporting instruments. The saddles will occasionally shift and knock my intonation off a bit.
Its been more of an issue for me when transporting instruments. The saddles will occasionally shift and knock my intonation off a bit.
At times, yes. The faster I play the harder I dig in, to the point where I'll drag the strings out of position on a standard MIM L plate bridge. It's disconcerting when you are trying to keep a quick tempo and your strings keep changing position under your right hand.
I can see where it would be. While another bridge can address that issue, have you considered working on making your speed independent from how hard you play? It can come in handy IME.
I can "sound" like I'm plucking hard while never using enough motion to actually move a bridge saddle. That control came from using a setup that required me to learn how to do it. Less motion, more control, zero fatigue. Just a thought.
Bridges can change tone. So unless I want to change the fundamental tone of an instrument I leave mine alone. Of course anyone is free to do as they choose... sometimes that's how we learn.
I can "sound" like I'm plucking hard while never using enough motion to actually move a bridge saddle. That control came from using a setup that required me to learn how to do it. Less motion, more control, zero fatigue. Just a thought.
Bridges can change tone. So unless I want to change the fundamental tone of an instrument I leave mine alone. Of course anyone is free to do as they choose... sometimes that's how we learn.
Naaah, I'm an old hack who only practices if I have a set list to learn. Except for a little ear training and some help from my dad when I first started I'm entirely self taught and have all the bad habits that kind of education builds in to one's bag of technical tricks.
