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String through Fender P.

I have a '76 Fender P-bass that I bought at a yard sale circa 1991-ish. It has the original bridge on it to this day, not a string-thru. I also have a Y2K Fender USA Jazz that I bought around 2002, it's a string-thru with the stock bridge on it as well - can't tell any difference in sustain, but it just feels tighter overall. and ya, it looks cool on the back.
 
(3) Someone tell me how the string tension can be any different? Same strings, same length from nut to saddle, same tuning, therefore tension is the same?

Tension is the same, but some people will notice a difference in feel.

I have a 5 string Jazz with the option to go top or through and have tried both ways. I felt a difference, I'm sure due to the different break angle. There was little to no difference in sound.
 
Can one put flats on a string through bass?
Yes.
However, there’s at least one string mfg that says not to do it. I can’t remember which company though. (Maybe, La Bella or TI?)
I put D’Addario Chromes through body on my Schecter Stage 5. They are in fine condition but I had to cut off the silk with the B string as, it wouldn’t fully fit/seat in the hole. I was weary of doing this because, I mistakenly assumed the silk had something to do with the structural integrity of the string but the BSO rep @SLaPiNFuNK suggested to do it and when it comes to strings I trust everything he says.
 
Can we overanalyze the difference in weight between drilling out the body and the holes in the bridge + the weight of ferrules vs. non drilled body without holes in the bridge? Will either lead to neck dive or eliminate it completely?
 
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I play an American Standard and string through Labella Flat wounds. I did have one B string break on me in the year that I've owned it (playing about 60 gigs during that time)

Of course that string broke the one time I didn't have my back up bass with me or extra strings. Luckily the B string is easy to play around.
 
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I played for years on a standard p-bass "special" (the special part being the noisy Fender Jazz pickup I can't stand to listen to anymore) and it had a standard bridge. By the time I ordered a custom bass and it was string thru I noted sustain definitely improved, tone was more consistently attacking, generally I eliminated most things I disliked about my tone before.
 
Not sure if it is relevant but this is my current situation with a P. 2000 or so MIA P with a string through only bridge, and wanted to try some flats and prefer top load as on my other bases. Bought a newer MIA Fender bridge (high mass vintage I think they call it) that offers both stringing types. Swapped it in but ran into setup issues because the base plate is thicker than the original bridge. Tried a shim to get the action lower without bottoming out the saddles and got the strings lower but now seem to be suffering from fret buzz in the last 5 or so frets (ski jump?). In the mean time I got a AV63 P that plays great and is currently wearing flats, but still use my older P as my main bass in my band since it is tuned differently. Now I'm considering swapping the original bridge back in and taking out the shim and trying to redo the setup to see if I can get it back to normal. I should have bought a different bridge that wouldn't have required as much adjustment, as they sell an american deluxe bridge that is from the same era and appears to be the same as my OEM bridge but with top load holes drilled in it. Long winded way of saying I still think I prefer top load but on this bass I would have spend more money on another bridge and it will be cheaper and easier to go back to stock at this point. The bridge that is on it now is really nice but the setup is more important.

I wish Hipshot would make one of their Vintage bridges drilled for the FM2 3 hole Fender mount. I love the look and function, since besides the oval shape the Lakland bridge is similar and functions well (55-02). I have been spoiled with quick loading on another bass and wish all my basses had it. Seems like such a simple thing but it makes a big difference to me.
 
Thank you everybody for all your comments. I went ahead and did it. I have the proper LaBella flats, black pickguard and black screws on the way. I love the color. I won't be able to get to it until late next week. But I'm looking forward to it. You definitely get higher quality tools with a US made Fender. :D

IMG_1115.jpg
 
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I have the American P and always go neck through. Usually when you have the bass setup from a pro tech he will put the strings on, neck through. I find the strings feel better and with a slight tension change. I feel the string responds better. if the tension is different than in this case slightly tighter the response will be different. I like it and I feel the bass response faster. Its not night and day, but I feel I don't have to pull as hard. But I have not bought a different set of strings since I first played it.
 
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Thank you everybody for all your comments. I went ahead and did it. I have the proper LaBella flats, black pickguard and black screws on the way. I love the color. I won't be able to get to it until late next week. But I'm looking forward to it. You definitely get higher quality tools with a US made Fender. :D

View attachment 3080458

When I bought the American Pro P, I bought the lightest. But this is my favorite color when it comes to the P's. Mine is white. Still nice.
 
On any bass I ever owned that gave you the option of both, I've never heard a difference either way.
Agreed.
I always did string-thru until I got my Fender CIJ PB62-70 which is top-load only. Ironically, the CIJ with its old-school bent steel low-mass vintage bridge resonates better than any other bass I’ve owned which includes several USA models in the $1,200 - $2,000 range. YMMV.
 
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