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Stupid? Convert a broke Rumble 410 to a 212?

rocksmoot

rocksmoot

Mar 7, 2013
360
111
Tontitown, Akansas, USA
reverbnation.com
#1
I have a garage sale Fender Rumble 410 cab with drivers that are complete mush that I got for next to nothing. The thing rattles and buzzes fiercely, it's just no good. So I was considering putting new stock drivers from Fender into it and giving it to my nephew when I had a (probably) stupid idea.

Can I recut the baffle for two really nice 12" drivers, maybe some Kappa 3012LFs to make a frankencab?

I haven't the foggiest idea how to approach this little project, so some pointers to some light reading on the topic would be great. I'm down with being told I'm an idiot and to move along, so feel free to say so, but it would be great if this idea had some merit.
 
#2
A lot of companies use the same damn box for both their 410's and their 212's, so, it'd most likely sound decent.

Kappalite LF's are the wrong answer though. Need something that can play the full sound. Deltalites, Basslites, Betas, or Delta LF's would all be different flavors of good. Delta LF's aren't nearly as LF specific as Kappalites. They just sound warmer and can take a good pounding.

So, price that stuff out and see if it still seems like a good idea. Could be a cool project for y'all to work on together. Betas will be the most affordable, and give you a nice, fat, old schol tone.
 
#3
If by "Betas" you meen Eminence Beta 12A, I agree with the recomendation. Good and inexpencive driver, and if you get the cab size and tuning right, you will get nice and well defined mids out of it.
Eminence has recomended cab specs in pdf on their site.
 
#5
rocksmoot said:
Thanks for the info. I briefly considered just sticking in some Basslite S2010s, and based on what you're saying, it makes sense to me that that would probably work pretty well too. A lot less work for sure.
Click to expand...

S2010's would work well in there too, and be a healthy improvement over the stock Rumble. It's just that replacing all the 10's means buying 4 drivers (neos ain't cheap these days), vs. only buying 2 drivers if you switch to 12's.

10" Betas would work well too...and cheaper than neos. Still at least as good as what was in there and probably a bit better.
 
#6
will33 said:
S2010's would work well in there too, and be a healthy improvement over the stock Rumble. It's just that replacing all the 10's means buying 4 drivers (neos ain't cheap these days), vs. only buying 2 drivers if you switch to 12's.

10" Betas would work well too...and cheaper than neos. Still at least as good as what was in there and probably a bit better.
Click to expand...

+1 on the S2010's. Love the sound of Eminence Neos. Don't forget to line the cab with some good quality acoustic damping foam like Sonic Barrier. Makes a world of difference if applied/installed correctly.
 
#8
If you go with 12's you'll have to spend time/cash cutting/fitting/mounting/soldering a new baffle and speakers and getting the correct tuning by sizing the vent ports.. If you haven't done this before and don't have the right tools or know someone who does, it may end up costing you more than just replacing the 10's.

Not saying you can't do it but for a one off project it may not be worth it.
 
#10
rocksmoot said:
That's a point, for sure. Sounds like 10's is the way to go. Given that, if I put in S2010 drivers, what's the recommendation on the tweeter? Go with the existing tweeter and crossover, or is there a better alternative?
Click to expand...

I'd keep the tweet it as is if it's not blown out.

Do make damn sure that the MDF that the cab is made out of is sound and not cracked. Small cracks you can glue. You may not be able to tell without removing the speakers and examining the cab throughly. Does it look good on the out side? No obvious abuse; scuffs, scrapes, dents, or gashes?
 
#13
Your current tweeter will be on a highpass filter only, which has nothing to do with what's running underneath it. Your woofers would running full range just like they would be if there was no tweeter there.

So, the answer is, run the tweeter just like it is now. If it sounds ok but you'd just like a little less of it, a L-pad (tweeter attenuator) is $10.

If you don't like it at all, removing it from the circuit is free.

All that stuff in that earlier post about "well, you'll have to do this, and you'll have to do that"?.....making it sound all like a hassle and all complicated and stuff?....that amounts to an afternoon in the garage, (or on the patio or kitchen counter if you live in an apartment). It ain't that bad.
 
#14
Thanks for the good advice. I guess my biggest concern with this kind of project is sinking some pretty good cash into some nice drivers and have them sound like total crap, but it sounds like the chances of a good outcome is pretty high here with this cab. I'll likely go ahead and do the s2010 drop in and leave the tweeter alone.

I'm no stranger to hands on electronics work, I used to be an electronics tech about 30 years ago, back when it paid to actually fix stuff. These days, aside from the occasional pickup changes, I don't solder much anymore.

Thanks for all the great info and encouragement!
 
#16
If the cab is MDF or particle board, it wouldn't be worth messing with (to me). Plywood... maybe. Looks like the internal volume is around 3.3 cubic feet - on the small side for 410 or 212. The 212 option would be cheaper, and it would be easier to get to 4 ohms.
 

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