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Surf green - Seafoam green


Paint mixers, like printers have only 4 pure colors to start with: Yelo, magenta, cyan & black. These are yellow, red, blue & black (YMCK) with no additional colors added to them. These 4 colors are the foundation that make up all color swatchbooks for the color printing industry.

For paint, unlike 4 color printing. Mixers can add hybrid pigments to enhance colors beyond the yelo, red, cyan, black limitations to get greater saturation.



With all due respect, your explanation is incorrect:

Paint (and ink) is made using "base" pigments which are available in a wide array of colors, many of which exceed the limitations of the CMYK colors gamut (bright orange for example). Red paint is made primarily from red pigment and NOT by mixing some variety of CMYK pigments.

You also apparently do not understand pantone guides i.e. the most widely used swatch book used in the process printing industry. From Wikipedia:

The Pantone Color Matching System is largely a standardized color reproduction system. By standardizing the colors, different manufacturers in different locations can all refer to the Pantone system to make sure colors match without direct contact with one another.

One such use is standardizing colors in the CMYK process. The CMYK process is a method of printing color by using four inks — cyan, magenta, yellow, and black. A majority of the world's printed material is produced using the CMYK process, and there is a special subset of Pantone colors that can be reproduced using CMYK . Those that are possible to simulate through the CMYK process are labeled as such within the company's guides.

However, most of the Pantone system's 1,114 spot colors cannot be simulated with CMYK but with 13 base pigments (15 including white and black) mixed in specified amounts.[6]​

With 25 years on the job, I am sure your visual color matching skills are beyond reproach, but your understanding (or at least your explanation) of the rudimentary science behind your craft is way off. Please be more careful as to the accuracy of your comments, especially if you are going to put yourself out there as some kind of expert or something. Who knows, there might be some aspiring graphic designers here on TB and the last thing we need are more misinformed/confused people in the design industry. We all have a responsibility to the young'ns ya know.
 
This is DEFINITELY a thread where GreenWithEnvy would be of great help.
He's got 4-5 different basses of each color and I'm sure you wouldn't have to twist his arm to much to get him to show those beauties off.

I'll try and send him a link to this thread in the morning I'm on the iPhone now sorry.
 
I just finished a Jazz bass project using Reranch Surf Green. Here are the results...
087.jpg

088.jpg

084-1.jpg

078-1.jpg

090.jpg
 
The 2000 "Color of the Year" for Rickenbacker was "Sea Green" (SG). It was the first of seven "Color of the Year" shades, and not very popular at the time. Since few were made, they're pretty rare, thus making them sought after and hence popular! This is my 4003 sitting next to a parked VW Karmann Ghia that is painted in almost the exact same shade! RIC's Sea Green is more of an aquamarine color.
RickGhiaweb.jpg
 
NICE... REALLY NICE!

Where are you guys getting these Fender headstock decals?
Drive to D.C. near the capitol, you'll see an entrance to a seedy alley (just look for the gathering of congressman and hookers) turn left, continue past the lobbyists, drug dealers, and insider traders. Waaaay back in a dark corner you'll see some cigarette smokers and 25ft. past that there is a metal door. Knock 3 times and you'll be admitted ... go past the wood taken from the Gibson factory and in a musty corner you'll find the decal guy.

or go to Ebay
 
NICE... REALLY NICE!

Where are you guys getting these Fender headstock decals?

Just search Google, I had this same question afew days back and found several places to get em from.

Although you may want to see what one of the vintage gurus around here say as far as who to get em from.

The last thing you want is one that isn't period correct or looks like a sticker or something.
 
Drive to D.C. near the capitol, you'll see an entrance to a seedy alley (just look for the gathering of congressman and hookers) turn left, continue past the lobbyists, drug dealers, and insider traders. Waaaay back in a dark corner you'll see some cigarette smokers and 25ft. past that there is a metal door. Knock 3 times and you'll be admitted ... go past the wood taken from the Gibson factory and in a musty corner you'll find the decal guy.

or go to Ebay

Hey c'mon I take that personal, DC is my home turf, and all those horrible things your saying that are in DC, are just not so.

Some of it was pretty dead on but I'm sorry we do NOT have cigarette smokers in dark corners those areas are reserved for campaigning officials to relieve stress with the hookers:D

All the rest though is pretty accurate.:D
 
I was thinking of using Ford's T-Bird green for an Epiphone Thunderbird project. Looking at the pics in this thread has more or less confirmed the color selection. I wasn't going to use any chrome with it, but now I'm starting to wonder...
 
I was thinking of using Ford's T-Bird green for an Epiphone Thunderbird project. Looking at the pics in this thread has more or less confirmed the color selection. I wasn't going to use any chrome with it, but now I'm starting to wonder...

Both of these colors are phenomenal with white and chrome.
They just go perfect together, and it's one of the few color combinations that just scream the 50's all over it.
 
I was thinking of using Ford's T-Bird green for an Epiphone Thunderbird project. Looking at the pics in this thread has more or less confirmed the color selection. I wasn't going to use any chrome with it, but now I'm starting to wonder...



It's the one on the right :smug:

green012.jpg
 
Thanks TBird, that's a sweet looking bass. I'm not sure I want to go retro, though. What I actually had in mind was this...

1) Alter the outline of the body for more straight lines, as opposed to the more bubbly Tbird. Not so far as an Explorer, but just a slight hardening of the shape.

2) Same with the headstock. Reduce the size and use the exact same angles/curve as the lower wing on the body.

3) Fill in the "ledge" on the front of the body and make it more of an arch-top, which unfortunately takes away the line that the pick guard meets up with. Possibly scoop out the back a little as well.

4) Add a counterweight to the body, between the bridge and the strap button - creating a perfect balance to the bass.

The neck has already been stained black by lowendgenerator, who I bought this from and who has very quickly sent it off by UPS. I like the black stained wood, and may try to keep that running down the center for a neck-thru look, or paint to match.

What I haven't yet thought through is whether or not the outside edges of the bass should be rounded (from front to back) and if so, how much.

This is the concept so far...

thunderbird-custom.jpg


Top = strictly paint
Bottom = the works as described above.

You can see how the new shape is born from the previous one, as it fits within the old lines. Looks like I forgot the old outline on the headstock - too lazy to go back and make a new image - but it fits.

Thoughts?
 
Yeah, I'm considering refinishing one of my jazz's in either seafoam or surf - can't make up my mind which one I prefer... I like 'em both, though - maybe I'll just flip a coin at the last moment - hahaha!!!


- georgestrings
 
Shrimpflea looks like you have a sea foam in your avatar. Has that Pthalo green look to it... and not pthalo blue or robin's egg like some. That color really goes well with an ebony fretboard. All you need now is a perloid pick guard. :D
 

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