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T/S parameters for vintage CTS 8x10 drivers?

#181
Ok, here are some quick shots of the new cab. I had a guy at work bend the grill for me and basically, he F'd it up. So, I'll have to have another made.
 

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#188
CJ at weber said they are alittle behind since they just moved to their new building but, I'll keep everyone updated. I just bought some B810 drivers really cheap that I can load in as well. I purposely had this cab built the way it is so that I can experiment until the cows come home. I have a pretty good idea where I am going to end up though.

JGR, that profile pic is just creeping me out. Unless it is removed I'll be forced to put up a photo of nikki sixx circa the shout at the devil album! You have been warned.
 
#189
Mendoza was scary looking, especially back in the early days - part of his hella-badass stage presence!

Did you ever try the Faitals on the low pass side? They should give you a similar low end to the B810's, and maybe jive better with the Webers in full-range since they have more even response and are cleaner in general.
 
#190
I did. The faitals do have the same low end as the B810's but are actually brighter/cleaner than the webers and more efficient. An ok mix, but not my sound. I got 8 B810's for half price and will be loading the cab with 6 of those and 2 mods, or 7 of them 1 guitar speaker, or 4 B810's and 4 Webers. That would probably be the best mix I think. At least until the 10FH's arrive. Unfortunately the b810's will probably arrive the day after my gig this week. I really wanted to try this cab out. The room Im playing soaks up the low end so, I'll need some drivers with lows. I need to have a new metal grill made soon.
 
#191
While waiting for my drivers to show up I decided to play around with stuffing or lining the cab. One layer of mattress foam does a great job of deadening the sound inside each chamber and there probably isn't any reason to mess with it but, I just had to. I noticed that adding a second layer didn't really change anything. Adding a 3rd layer did, but not that much. The way I check the sound is to stick my face into an open sound hole and sing the lowest note I can and then raising the pitch up to the higher ranges, listening for how dead the sound is, or any resonances. I find this very effective. Im just wondering why more mattress foam didn't make much difference? I'd like to know what stuff is used in the bergantino nv cabs. That stuff works even better than the foam. It looks like batts of white cotton but I think that it's some sort of fiberglass insulation. It doesn't feel really itchy like the regular stuff but, I can't find anything on the net that seems to be what jim used. I'd like to know and would re-line my cab with it. It's definitely not polyfill. (pillow stuffing)
 
#192
I sing into my speaker holes. There'll be a note that resonates like crazy. According to BFM, it's a product of the constructive enhancement of the chamber dimensions...somewhere in the low mids on most cabs. Maybe a bit higher than that on your small chambers.

BTW, great call on doing the bracing like that. That's the utmost in the mod-able cab, with all the chambers separate like that. It's basically the best testbed you can have for all things multiple 10".
 
#193
My goal is to remove any resonances. I don't notice any in the berg, my cab has just alittle in the upper/lowmids. Thanks, I thought about how to optimize the cab for me for a long time. It was never my plan to just pop some drivers into the cab and be done with it. Thats not my style. :)
 
#194
As far as I can tell, the bergs lining is either acouta stuf or wool. Apparently wool has the best sound dampening ability. The material in the bergs looks like it is in a batting for while the acousta stuf looks to be more loose or not in a sheet form. I may have to find some wool. Looking back on it, my experiment with the beta 10's may have worked out alot better if I would have had better lining. I wish that I would have tried them in the berg cab.
 
#195
Not trying to state the obvious (it just occurred to me!) - you may just want to ask Jim B. what he uses - he's always been pretty helpful in that regard.
 
#196
Tonight I loaded my small sealed 1x10 cabs with the weber 10fl's. One with matress topper, the other with "Jute" which is the stuff they use for automotive sound dampening and what I think most ampeg 8x10 cabs have. The local supplier only had about half as much as I needed and it was 1/4" so, I used 4 layers. It sounds quite abit different with the Jute. Less low mid hump, lows sound more solid and tight, actually the lows sound lower. The big difference is that jute loaded cab had tighter, cleaner more focused mids. Probably less mids than the foam loaded cab but, since they were more focused, they were better. For sealed cabs, Im really liking this stuff. Im thinking about ordering some 1" stuff to actually line my 8x10 though. I'd probably have to glue it in.
 
#198
kringle77 said:
Tonight I loaded my small sealed 1x10 cabs with the weber 10fl's. One with matress topper, the other with "Jute" which is the stuff they use for automotive sound dampening and what I think most ampeg 8x10 cabs have. The local supplier only had about half as much as I needed and it was 1/4" so, I used 4 layers. It sounds quite abit different with the Jute. Less low mid hump, lows sound more solid and tight, actually the lows sound lower. The big difference is that jute loaded cab had tighter, cleaner more focused mids. Probably less mids than the foam loaded cab but, since they were more focused, they were better. For sealed cabs, Im really liking this stuff. Im thinking about ordering some 1" stuff to actually line my 8x10 though. I'd probably have to glue it in.
Click to expand...

I use this [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] product. It works well but is quite expensive. Not sure if the car liner is wool or a synthetic. This product is fairly stiff. I cut it a bit oversized and friction holds it in place. Double sided carpet tape does a good job if you want to stick it in place.
 
#199
The wool stuffing, new grill and tuki cover have been ordered. Now, if the darn drivers would show up. I have some strong suspicions about what the best combo will end up being but, I'll keep that to myself for now. The only drivers that I won't have to try that I think would rock for low end is the BP102 and an MCM speaker that is very similar but has a more solid midrange. Based on the specs, I'd go with the mcm.
 
#200
I got the wool stuffing on friday and installed it. I love the way it deadens the cab, hated trying to install it. It wasn't in a convenient sheet but, more like a big ball of wool. So, it's tough to get an even amount in each chamber without making a mess. The first chamber I did sounded the best. I put in as much wool as I felt was necesary and used some door screen material stapled to the inside of the cab to hold it in place. This looked good, sounded the best and made things neat. It was ALOT of work though. I then did a chamber using some matress foam in front of the wool to keep the wool in place. Sounded good and was easier to use, didn't look as good though. A 3rd chamber I left lined with the foam and just stuffed the chamber with lightly fluffed wool. That was a mess and Im not sure how it will effect the sound as, I can't stick my face inside the speaker hole like the other two chambers. On the fourth chamber I left in the layer of foam, stuffed in some wool and then used some foam to hold the wool in place. I should have the B810's sometime this week to see if the two sides of the cab sound much different. The cab is about 7 cubic feet and I used 5lbs of wool. The first chamber got the most wool and was probably 1lb per driver. That sounded the best to me but, I realized that I would run out of material at that rate. I also figured that it may not make that much of a difference in this cab so, after that I started dividing wool more equally. My goal with all the stuffing is to greatly reduce the roughly 120hz hump that the B810 driver has in a 0.85 cubic foot per driver sealed cab.
 

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