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TC RH750 part II

Well I’m pretty late to the RH450/RH750 party - but all I can say is wow, I’m impressed with this thing!

I purchased even after all the wattage talk, fully aware that the RH750 can get crazy loud – and that’s all I needed to know. Does it have the headroom for almost any gig? Yup. That was good enough for me not to take part in the wattage controversy.

Tone – I’m coming from an Aguilar db751 which I also LOVED – but it was just too big a beast to carry around everywhere. The db751 was also on the warm and darker side of the tonal spectrum, so plugging into the RH750 – I felt right at home.

I don’t go for lots of bright treble in my tone – but like a warm, round and fat tone with presence, but not high’s that are too much. I’m really just shocked at how good the RH750 sounds. It’s the warmest sounding micro I ever heard… but still remains tight and defined. Compressed a bit, but I like that… I don’t need to be competing with kick-drum frequencies, and I actually like s smidge (like one or two clicks) of Spectracomp as it adds a bit of punch… anymore and it starts to really alter your basses natural voice. One or two clicks is enough to engage its effect without going overboard. Tubetone is great as well when used sparingly - when used at 3-4 clicks in… it had a very convincing tube softness.

Overall – I’m just straight out loving this head. Its “baked in” tone is right what I’m after (warm/vintage style tone) - The semi-para is just great. Spectracomp adds a smidge of fat tightness. Tubetone softens just a touch…

Paired with a single or pair of RS210 cabs – I’m thrilled with my new rig.
 
Any thoughts on the RH750/Schroeder Cabinets combination? I currently use the M9 Carbine, I love the tone, but I need a lighter amp for those smaller shows.

I have not tried but I was very tempted. I think they could be a good match: RH750 has a "strong baked-in voice" that cuts deep lows. Which is good to perceive big low-mids with limited power. In fact this head has a reputation to be a "beast in the lows"... but in reality it does not go so low if you don't tweak EQ to some extremes.

I think this goes really well with Schroeder cabs (at least with the older ones I know), since these cabs provide very high efficiency at the expense of limited deep bass handling. I guess these cabs are good for tube heads, and the RH750 behaves similar to a tube head in this area.

I was on the verge to buy an old 4x10 Schroeder, one of this with 2 angled speakers. Finally I built my own cabs.

I think this should be a very light rig, very mid present, very, very loud and it would easily cut through dense mixes (2 guitars and keyboards) but maybe it is not ideal for certain styles (reggae?).

In my experience cabs without deepest lows are OK (and sometimes even GOOD) for 5-string basses. Sometimes you can be heard better if you cut the very deep low end. It's not exactly the case with my cabs, but it was with my previous rig (sealed 4x10).

I'd try before buy, but I think this combination should be great.
 
I have not tried but I was very tempted. I think they could be a good match: RH750 has a "strong baked-in voice" that cuts deep lows. Which is good to perceive big low-mids with limited power. In fact this head has a reputation to be a "beast in the lows"... but in reality it does not go so low if you don't tweak EQ to some extremes.

I think this goes really well with Schroeder cabs (at least with the older ones I know), since these cabs provide very high efficiency at the expense of limited deep bass handling. I guess these cabs are good for tube heads, and the RH750 behaves similar to a tube head in this area.

I was on the verge to buy an old 4x10 Schroeder, one of this with 2 angled speakers. Finally I built my own cabs.

I think this should be a very light rig, very mid present, very, very loud and it would easily cut through dense mixes (2 guitars and keyboards) but maybe it is not ideal for certain styles (reggae?).

In my experience cabs without deepest lows are OK (and sometimes even GOOD) for 5-string basses. Sometimes you can be heard better if you cut the very deep low end. It's not exactly the case with my cabs, but it was with my previous rig (sealed 4x10).

I'd try before buy, but I think this combination should be great.

Thanks, I appreciate your input!
 
Hi there.

I own a RH750 since a couple of months, but still no cab.

I was planning to use the TC as a B rig. I currently use an Ampeg SVT II pro with the 8x10 fridge, which is an amazing setup but I'm simply getting tired of carrying all that stuff (head in an 18" rack with FX, power supply etc.). So since I can't afford a roadie :smug: I'd might use the TC as a permanent option.
My question is like you might expect: which cab, cabcombination? I read severeal posts and thought of the 2x12&2x10. Just to give you an idea, I play prog/symphonic metal similar to Nightwish, Symphony X and co. For really big things I still can use the Ampeg cab in addition to the TC head, but I'd really like to keep things easier in terms of weight in future.
I already appreciate your ideas and comments.
 
Hi there.

I own a RH750 since a couple of months, but still no cab.

I was planning to use the TC as a B rig. I currently use an Ampeg SVT II pro with the 8x10 fridge, which is an amazing setup but I'm simply getting tired of carrying all that stuff (head in an 18" rack with FX, power supply etc.). So since I can't afford a roadie :smug: I'd might use the TC as a permanent option.
My question is like you might expect: which cab, cabcombination? I read severeal posts and thought of the 2x12&2x10. Just to give you an idea, I play prog/symphonic metal similar to Nightwish, Symphony X and co. For really big things I still can use the Ampeg cab in addition to the TC head, but I'd really like to keep things easier in terms of weight in future.
I already appreciate your ideas and comments.

I'm happy with an RH750 paired with a fEarful 1212/6/1.
 
@ Slawie: so what kind of style do you play?

In general I'd prefer to stick with a TC rig. First I believe that manufacturers take care that every piece of gear matches its counterpiece in a good way and I have to check what's available in my region (sit. in Europe/Luxembourg).
 
slawie said:
I play in a 70's cover band an 80's cover band and a jazz band

And this is my rig
 

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I have four more broken knobs on my 750. They are just designed to fail.

I transport it in a form-fitted, foam-lined SKB briefcase. I have a little space so the knobs don't touch anything, but the amp slid in the case a little so that the knobs touched the foam. There must have been a couple bumps in the road, and apparently foam padding is tougher than these knobs.

So, do I contact TC and just order 500 knobs so I can keep replacing them? Has anybody found a good alternative knob for these d-shape shafts? Is there a better way to transport it? Or do I just give up and buy an amp that doesn't fall apart every third time I take it out of the house?

I like the sound I get, but these knobs are crap.
 
I had a chat with TC tech support - I had buttons splitting for no reason...one went while the head was sitting on my cabs in the basement with nobody around! Apparently their knob supplier had a problem with a bad batch of plastic which has been resolved. They have new knobs available that have an improved design, so the new ones shouldn't spontaneously fall apart like the old ones. If you contact them they'll send you a set.
 
Buck Spunni said:
I had a chat with TC tech support - I had buttons splitting for no reason...one went while the head was sitting on my cabs in the basement with nobody around! Apparently their knob supplier had a problem with a bad batch of plastic which has been resolved. They have new knobs available that have an improved design, so the new ones shouldn't spontaneously fall apart like the old ones. If you contact them they'll send you a set.

I've already contacted them. When did the knobs change? The ones that broke were replacements from January, and they were exactly like the old knobs.

I think I am going to build a faceplate to protect the knobs when it is in the case. Maybe then I can keep the next set of knobs intact.
 
I think the change is recent but I don't know. The new style has thicker tines on the inside. I got the impression that the plastic in the first run was the root of the problem. My knobs checked out OK, it was the buttons that broke. Luckily for me TC is in town so I was able to drop the head off for quick service.
 
I had mine replaced by the local distributor a couple of weeks ago. The new ones feel very solid and I was unable to easily remove one from the shaft so I think they're already better than the originals.

The knobs on the loaner RH450 were completely solid and it looked like it had taken some knocks in its time so I have to believe that these were from a bad batch.

Whether they live up the inevitable knocks and bumps or the plastic degrades spontaneously we are yet to see. I'll keep you posted.
 
Ok. I still think the knobs suck, but I can't fault their customer service. I posted a support question about purchasing a couple sets of replacement knobs. I stated that my amp was out of warranty and explained how I thought they had been damaged. Below is the response I received:

Hello,

Attached is a no charge sales invoice for 10 normal knobs and 2 master knobs.

These will ship today from Canada.

Best regards,

Shawn

I guess I will work on designing and building a protective faceplate this weekend.