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Team Trace Elliott Pt 3

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Hey, Trace-heads...

My old band (1990s) has put up a recording/video on YouTube.

The bass on the track was recorded by mic'ing the Trace Elliot rig I used in those days.

The rig was all TE, except for a dbx160XT compressor:
• GP12XV pre-amp
• 500W power amp
• 1528 cab (two 15s)
• 1048 cab (four 10s)
• 4052 "bright box" (four 5s)

The bass used is a custom Alembic Elan. (Both the bass and the rig are visible in the video.)

So, if any of you want to dig the tone that was coming out of that rig, here's the link:



Play it loud, and enjoy! :bassist:
 
Im a new Trace Head. Scored these at a flea market for $180. I had practice that same night. These things rock! Now all I need is a TE head.
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Hey, Trace-heads...

My old band (1990s) has put up a recording/video on YouTube.

The bass on the track was recorded by mic'ing the Trace Elliot rig I used in those days.

The rig was all TE, except for a dbx160XT compressor:
• GP12XV pre-amp
• 500W power amp
• 1528 cab (two 15s)
• 1048 cab (four 10s)
• 4052 "bright box" (four 5s)

The bass used is a custom Alembic Elan. (Both the bass and the rig are visible in the video.)

So, if any of you want to dig the tone that was coming out of that rig, here's the link:

http://youtu.be/kRzzXi0eMUg

Play it loud, and enjoy! :bassist:

Sweet tone!
 
If anyone can help me, it's Team Trace...

I've been looking for trace heads with particular features, but the faces of the amps all look very similar and I can't always get a good look at the specific model number.

I think it's a SMX (or SMC) model, the head (not the preamp only). The model(s) I am thinking of is a SS or hybrid head with on-board compressor & GEQ. I would prefer a heatsink compared to the fan version. I saw a GP12 SMX250 on ebay that looks like it ticks all these boxes, but are there any other models that might fit the bill because my chances of finding one might increase that way.. Also are the higher wattage ones heatsink or fan cooled?

Thanks in advance!
 
HAH! It survived, then...cool!

What year is that?

Not sure, it's an AH300SMC and it still has the hand written serial no. which reads T0422 / 163 / 198 if I am not mistaken.

It's also missing one of the screws that holds the head in place in the case and the accompanying screw covers.

Not as loud as I'd hoped but I'm sure that's because it's only a 300 watt head putting out probably 180 or so through a small 8 ohm 1x15 cab. It does sound great. Definitely it's own kind of sound somewhere in between the Hartke and the GK sound to my ears. And it definitely looks great- first time I've had a matching amp head and cab in quite a while.

I have to make it happen somehow...when this whole head saga came about, I was trying to get the 1153 in the classifieds but didn't have the cash. I still don't but two 1153's under this head will be a killer rig.

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Incidentally, can anyone provide advice on getting the grill off my 1153 cab? One of the screws is under the TE badge and I'd rather not break it if possible.

At one point I took all the other screws off besides the hidden one and the grill didn't seem to budge much if at all. There's some rattle coming from the cab at high volumes at certain frequencies and I think the screws holding the clips which hold the driver in place need to be tightened because they're up high enough to touch the grill and I can see some exposed tread above the clip.
 
If anyone can help me, it's Team Trace...

I've been looking for trace heads with particular features, but the faces of the amps all look very similar and I can't always get a good look at the specific model number.

I think it's a SMX (or SMC) model, the head (not the preamp only). The model(s) I am thinking of is a SS or hybrid head with on-board compressor & GEQ. I would prefer a heatsink compared to the fan version. I saw a GP12 SMX250 on ebay that looks like it ticks all these boxes, but are there any other models that might fit the bill because my chances of finding one might increase that way.. Also are the higher wattage ones heatsink or fan cooled?

Thanks in advance!
Mine is one of the last under Kaman before Gibson got their mitts on Trace. We didn't get SMC versions in NZ so unlikely you will find one in Aussie.

The stuff on the front is a little bit random. Mine is a RAH250 GP12SMX. Only the smx GP12 is on the front. The rest was in pen on the back and long since faded out.

GP12 band graphic, others were GP7
SMX has the compressors
SM still splits the signal I believe as it has the balance control and switchable high passing effect loop.

If the amp is 2U it's a 150W to 300W one.
3U can be all kinds in the US, over here they are big guns dual 300W stereo units.

Some have preamp valve, it doesn't do a whole lot, mine is blendable.
Mine has a fan, I don't see many smx for sale here but they have all had fans, I have seen a few 150W SM and older series 6 with heatsinks. The fan is pretty quiet.

Some of the US ones have dual voltage capability. Probably Kaman or earlier vintage. You'd have to be pretty keen to post one though.
 
Mine, for another example of how the heads can be labeled, spec'd, etc...

'94 AH130SM, labeled on the front as a GP7SM130 - no onboard comp or tube; EQ balance and blend; front effects loop in/out; 2 pre-shape options before EQ; DI w/pre- or post-EQ select

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]


In back - voltage select; ground lift switch; tuner out; you can see a bit of the heatsink, which is over half the width of the head.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
I got a new hefty v-6 output transformer for my Peavey Tour vb-2 with 6 EL34's, after a previous owner had some disasters with the original output transformer. It's a definite upgrade.

I was so pleased with it for a reasonable reduced sale price from BritishAudioService.com that I went back there online & bought a new V8 power tranformer, new V8 output transformer, new unpopulated V8 output section printed circuit board, new unpopulated preamp section printed circuit board. And 8 KT120 output tubes (purchased from somewhere else) to use instead of the standard 8 KT88. I need a handful of caps and resistors, tube sockets, switches and pots, line cord & fuseholders, pilot light...green of course. And some kind of case.

I'm building it on 3 chassis; 1) power supply 2) output section 3) preamp. I'll probably arrange them somewhat like an SVT with preamp on top, but I'll insert a diagonal heat diverter/chimney and some infrared reflectors and there's very good chance I can make the fans optional, but then the case will be BIG and have drilled-steel vents on all sides. There's a small chance I might just make them rack-mount, or rack-mount in a head-like cabinet. And there's a chance I might have to resort to fans, in which case I'll have a phase-cancelling labyrinth on the air input & output. Only testing after construction will tell. One thing is certain: It's going to be HUGE and HEAVY. I won't need theft insurance, a thief would need a fork lift.

I'm adding an enormous (truly gargantuan) power inductor which will make for a truly silent output section with absolutley no hum at all, which is a somewhat extravagent (nearly ridiculous and truly ridiculously heavy) item on such a powerful amp, but it really helps the power transformer work more consistently and safely and cooler with the KT-120s...and hopefully it doesn't drop B+ at all. Adding some bigger high-quality filter caps too, just started modelling and it looks good.

Is there a Trace Elliot preamp (available as a seperate unit) with the tube compressor like the V8? I definitely want the compressor! If there is such a thing, and I can score one, I'd rather do that than build up the naked printed circuit board. The KT120s higher-wattage heaters are longer because the plates are longer, and they require more heater current; disconnecting the preamp B++ and heaters from the main power transformer could help. But the V8 uses regulated DC heaters for the preamp, so I imagine there's a seperate heater power for the power section, and it's probably sufficient. I have the schematic for the V8, have to get more familiar with it.

If I build it all from scratch it's going to be a on-again/off-again long-term project, and I'll have to have a panel made, so it's probalby not going to have the blacklight thing going on. But it will sound like a V-8, and the
 
The spec is heavy and loud.

The 1518 is about 300W "rating", you can fart it out easily enough though. Mine doesn't get efficient until low D (2nd harmonic).

Not sure on the 4x10, about 400W probably.

Did you want a number? I see you don't have any in your sig.
 
They should both be 8 ohm. It's possible the 4x10 could be a 4ohm, I don't know a lot about them.

Always a good idea to check DC resistance with a multimeter, reading will be slightly less than the rated impedance. Some nut could potentially have rewired it or there could be a lone blown driver. It happened to me.
 
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