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Team Trace Elliott Pt 3
- Thread starter Chef
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Slamzilla,
If it is $80 to re-cone the old 10" driver, as long as the old one is an 8 ohm driver could you replace it with one of the newer ones that BAS stocks for $89? Would the newer driver color the sound significantly more that a re-cone of the old one?
If it is $80 to re-cone the old 10" driver, as long as the old one is an 8 ohm driver could you replace it with one of the newer ones that BAS stocks for $89? Would the newer driver color the sound significantly more that a re-cone of the old one?
I discovered the source of the buzzing in my 1518. A small hairline crack in the compliance maybe 1/2 to 3/4" long. I patched it up with some super glue (on both sides), so we'll see if that helps.
After I discovered the crack I said, oh, I'll just throw in my EVM 15B that's sitting right here, should be perfect. But the Fane made Trace speaker has a metal flange around the outside that changes the mounting diameter from standard. So the EV will sit comfortably in the hole, but the screw holes sit outside the diameter of the EV frame. So it's not just a "plug and play", it's going to take a bit of extra work if I want to switch them out.
But besides the buzz the Fane sounds killer, so I'm hoping the superglue will patch that right up, or that I can get it reconed for not too much. BAS has the 10s I think, but I don't think they had new 15s, at least last time I checked.
After I discovered the crack I said, oh, I'll just throw in my EVM 15B that's sitting right here, should be perfect. But the Fane made Trace speaker has a metal flange around the outside that changes the mounting diameter from standard. So the EV will sit comfortably in the hole, but the screw holes sit outside the diameter of the EV frame. So it's not just a "plug and play", it's going to take a bit of extra work if I want to switch them out.
But besides the buzz the Fane sounds killer, so I'm hoping the superglue will patch that right up, or that I can get it reconed for not too much. BAS has the 10s I think, but I don't think they had new 15s, at least last time I checked.
Those cheap Celestion 10's have very little excursion. I expect the Trace original equipment ones to be far better.
I saw someone's 1528 on ebay and it gave me the idea of using speaker mounting brackets to use the original mounting holes but with a standard sized 15. Basically it's like a little "claw" that hooks on to the outer rim of the speaker and is screwed down into the wood to hold the speaker securely. Not sure where the best place to get some would be though. I checked BAS and didn't see any there under Trace. I think that 1528 had been modded with some different speakers, it also didnt have the full grill, so I think someone ran into the same problem I had (trying to put a standard sized 15 in an opening with wider spaced screw holes) and that's how they got around it.
LOL, why would I want to RUIN this awesome cab? Or are you saying to remove the extra flange from the original to use with a new speaker? I don't think that would go well. Some brackets/clamps should work fine.
Anything I do to this cab is going to be reversible (or extremely minor). at most I might drill new screw holes 45 degrees offset from the originals and reinforce them with thin strips of wood.
But I'm still hoping the superglue did the trick, so I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
Anything I do to this cab is going to be reversible (or extremely minor). at most I might drill new screw holes 45 degrees offset from the originals and reinforce them with thin strips of wood.
But I'm still hoping the superglue did the trick, so I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
- Apr 3, 2003
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- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
Good. I've been getting a little worried the new Trace stuff will get discontinued. I'd like to see them continue to be viable and hopefully thrive, even if it is under Peavey's ownership (better than Gibson, anyway!). I love my 1210 head.
I'm not following the flange issue, need a pic. I think you're asking about L clamps?
L clamps could be it. the "flange" in question is a brushed aluminum looking thing that fits around the normal rim of the speaker frame, making it maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch wider, and it is "cut" on the sides to be straight (rather than a circle).
When I placed my EV in the cutout, the screw holes for the Fane sat outside the rim of the EV (due to the "flange", or whatever you want to call it). So yeah, basically I would need to either screw new holes closer in, or get something that I could screw into the original holes that would hold the smaller speaker firmly in place. Something called an "L clamp" seems like a likely prospect.
It's hard to tell, but it looks like the flange may be attached somehow UNDER the gasket that goes around the speaker (for rear mounting or to keep the grill from rubbing the compliance during use). But I don't want to tear the gasket out to check. Doesn't seem like there's anything on the back side though (ie to indicate screws, rivets, etc...), and I'm also not sure how I would apply that to a different speaker.
Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, I tried out the cab again today and the glue helped a lot but there is still some buzzing. Thinking I might try a small piece of tape to help the structural integrity. But where it really needs it is the back and there's a frame spoke right there. So it will be tricky to access, but hey, that's what tweezers are for.
Edit Pt II...
I need something like what it looks like this guy has...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRACE-ELLIO...915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519f3840c3
There are 4 pieces of hardware for each speaker holding them into the cab with screws. Unfortunately, it's hard to tell if they're separate pieces, or part of the speaker frame itself. But if I could get something like that, that should theoretically do the trick.
When I placed my EV in the cutout, the screw holes for the Fane sat outside the rim of the EV (due to the "flange", or whatever you want to call it). So yeah, basically I would need to either screw new holes closer in, or get something that I could screw into the original holes that would hold the smaller speaker firmly in place. Something called an "L clamp" seems like a likely prospect.
It's hard to tell, but it looks like the flange may be attached somehow UNDER the gasket that goes around the speaker (for rear mounting or to keep the grill from rubbing the compliance during use). But I don't want to tear the gasket out to check. Doesn't seem like there's anything on the back side though (ie to indicate screws, rivets, etc...), and I'm also not sure how I would apply that to a different speaker.
Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, I tried out the cab again today and the glue helped a lot but there is still some buzzing. Thinking I might try a small piece of tape to help the structural integrity. But where it really needs it is the back and there's a frame spoke right there. So it will be tricky to access, but hey, that's what tweezers are for.
Edit Pt II...
I need something like what it looks like this guy has...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRACE-ELLIO...915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519f3840c3
There are 4 pieces of hardware for each speaker holding them into the cab with screws. Unfortunately, it's hard to tell if they're separate pieces, or part of the speaker frame itself. But if I could get something like that, that should theoretically do the trick.
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
Right angle pice of steel with a short side about the thickness of the frame and a hole in the long side for going into the old hole.
I'd put four new holes in the cab offset from the old ones and never think of them again.
Someone was saying on the current Ampeg 15" fixup thread, the Eminence 3015 is supposed to be quite flexible in application. If you ever go down road let me know. My 1518 is a bear to move with the Celestion.
I'd put four new holes in the cab offset from the old ones and never think of them again.
Someone was saying on the current Ampeg 15" fixup thread, the Eminence 3015 is supposed to be quite flexible in application. If you ever go down road let me know. My 1518 is a bear to move with the Celestion.
Here is my new acquisition, round port 1518t sitting under my 1210 combo with my 1986 Peavey USA Foundation:
Haven't had too much chance to try it out, but it seems to do a nice job of taking some of the mid-range "honkiness" out of the 1210, and adding some more meat to the low end. I know for some folks mixing driver sizes is the devil, but it seems like it is going to work out for me.
Haven't had too much chance to try it out, but it seems to do a nice job of taking some of the mid-range "honkiness" out of the 1210, and adding some more meat to the low end. I know for some folks mixing driver sizes is the devil, but it seems like it is going to work out for me.
In case you were wondering about the "m" EQ - no it isn't completely dialed in, but sounds pretty good with the sub 100 hz rolled off to keep it from getting farty and some high mids dialed out. The highs were rolled down bc I was trying it with the horn enabled, I'll probably turn it off since the Foundation pickups can be pretty bright.
I used to to always run it like this: \/
but part of that was the pickups on the Grind.
I used to to always run it like this: \/
but part of that was the pickups on the Grind.I just thought you were trying to make it look like a spider or something.
That rig is almost identical to mine actually. Except instead of having the 1210 combo, I have just the head out of the 1210, and then a vintage 2x10 (not sure the model number, it's designed to be used standing up, or as a wedge), and a 1518. But my 1518 is a bit different than yours. Has the racing stripes and the ports dont go through the grill like that.
Unfortunately my 1210 took a nasty couple of falls recently and I haven't gotten around to ordering the parts to fix it (damaged some of the small PCB assemblies on the back of the amp, otherwise it seems more or less ok).
Downunder, I'm hoping to not have to fabricate anything, since I don't really have the tools/facilities to do that. Is there anywhere online that sells brackets like that? I didn't see any at BAS, and google searches havent turned up anything useful (mostly wall mounting brackets for small speakers). hmm, maybe Parts Express, haven't tried there yet.
That rig is almost identical to mine actually. Except instead of having the 1210 combo, I have just the head out of the 1210, and then a vintage 2x10 (not sure the model number, it's designed to be used standing up, or as a wedge), and a 1518. But my 1518 is a bit different than yours. Has the racing stripes and the ports dont go through the grill like that.
Unfortunately my 1210 took a nasty couple of falls recently and I haven't gotten around to ordering the parts to fix it (damaged some of the small PCB assemblies on the back of the amp, otherwise it seems more or less ok).
Downunder, I'm hoping to not have to fabricate anything, since I don't really have the tools/facilities to do that. Is there anywhere online that sells brackets like that? I didn't see any at BAS, and google searches havent turned up anything useful (mostly wall mounting brackets for small speakers). hmm, maybe Parts Express, haven't tried there yet.
I feel the same way, the brand seems kind of dormant. They really need some new product development and better marketing. Its a great well recognized brand, it seems the most recent owners are mishandling it. I hate to say it but the brand flourished under the Kaman ownership, there was a constanf flow of new product (although i hated the speaker cabinets ) and very aggressive marketing. The trace brand still has great potential.
I think Peavey has their own problems right now. With the influx of Chinese music equipment and the down economy, making money selling US or UK made gear is a tough business these days. The current "50s/60s vintage retro" trend is selling Fenders, Orange Amps and Gibsons but not helping Peavey too much. Also the low price of Peavey's older US made guitars and amps on the used market works against their new sales as well. Hopefully they survive because they and TE both make great albeit mostly under appreciated gear.
It has a off switch on the horn? That guy toasting his Avatar by just using the attenuator instead of eq puts the frighteners on me.In case you were wondering about the "m" EQ - no it isn't completely dialed in, but sounds pretty good with the sub 100 hz rolled off to keep it from getting farty and some high mids dialed out. The highs were rolled down bc I was trying it with the horn enabled, I'll probably turn it off since the Foundation pickups can be pretty bright.
I used to to always run it like this: \/
I run swr 2x10 vertically on top of my 1518 when I don't have PA support. It sounds very good around the room. Have a crack with the 1518 on its side under the combo on its side, lines all the cones up.
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