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Tec Puma Bass amps

I have what will probably appear to be a dumb question - and forgive me if the answer's buried in here someplace.

ALL my cabs are 8 ohm; the Puma 1000 interests me because I was considering running a Dr. Bass 2460 (8 ohm) and LF 15 (8 Ohm) - one through each channel. Now I realiz e the two seperate channels are advertised as "500W at 4 Ohm" but I'm "assuming" I can plug my 8 ohm boxes into each output, and probably yield about 350W output through each channel. Any reason why I couldn't do that? If I ran both cabs chained in bridged mode, the amp'd see 4 ohms; so I can't get 'er done that way either, and lose the Channel B LF bypass for the LF box.

Any experience? Suggestions?

+1 That's the primary reason I went with the 500 over the 1000 (since I typically use one large 4ohm cab). The 500 actually has plenty of ooomph for what I do.

I believe Richard Bona is now using the 1000 with two small, 4ohm TecAmp112's. I bet that's a powerful small rig!

I'd love to hear the 1000 bridged into that lightweight 8ohm TecAmp410. I bet that is KILLER KILLER KILLER!
 
I definitely enjoy wandering through this thread. TecAmp is still on my radar, and I would love to hear a Puma 1000 bridged into my 8-ohm Epifani cab. Or, for that matter, each of those channels side-by-each into my 310 cabs. I'm too much of a wimp to buy sight-unheard, though. If anyone in the SF bay area owns one and would like to get together, the coffee is on me. :D
 
ALL my cabs are 8 ohm; the Puma 1000 interests me because I was considering running a Dr. Bass 2460 (8 ohm) and LF 15 (8 Ohm) - one through each channel. Now I realize the two separate channels are advertised as "500W at 4 Ohm" but I'm "assuming" I can plug my 8 ohm boxes into each output, and probably yield about 350W output through each channel.
I'm not sure what the exact power out would be, but yeah, that'd work perfectly fine.
 
I have what will probably appear to be a dumb question - and forgive me if the answer's buried in here someplace.

ALL my cabs are 8 ohm; the Puma 1000 interests me because I was considering running a Dr. Bass 2460 (8 ohm) and LF 15 (8 Ohm) - one through each channel. Now I realiz e the two seperate channels are advertised as "500W at 4 Ohm" but I'm "assuming" I can plug my 8 ohm boxes into each output, and probably yield about 350W output through each channel. Any reason why I couldn't do that? If I ran both cabs chained in bridged mode, the amp'd see 4 ohms; so I can't get 'er done that way either, and lose the Channel B LF bypass for the LF box.

Any experience? Suggestions?

It would work fine, but you are spending a lot of extra money for little or no extra power over the Puma500.

The 1000 puts out, I believe 280 watts into 8ohms per side (same as the single 280 watts the PUma500 puts out at 8ohms). So, that's 560 watts into your 2 8ohm cabs. The Puma500 puts out 500 watts into 4ohms. Would it sound a little bigger, probably (just like the Shuttle 12 Max sounds a little bigger, from user reports, into two 8ohm cabs than the Max 6 running at 4ohms). I guess what you have to decide is if that little extra oomph is worth another $500:)

Per Vic's comment, it would work fine, but IMO probably wouldn't get you anything noticeably louder versus the less expensive and simpler Puma500.

K

Edit: Nice to see this old thread back alive. I'm still totally digging the Puma500. It's not the loudest micro amp out there, but the tone is to die for, and it still is plently loud at 4ohms for everything I've had to throw at it.
 
I bit the bullet- I bought a Puma 1000 from Osiamo LLC that was discounted as a demo unit. I think I can now retire my Acoustic Image Focus!

I'm playing it through my Phil Jones 8B neo cab (4 ohms) and it works superbly. I plan to eventually by a second PJB 8B cab so I can get that second amp side running too. Out of all the amp heads I've tried with this cab the Puma seems to mate the best with it.

I love the taste adjuster! EQ's are on the money. I also like having the compressor function too because with that much power I like having the option to regulate the extreme transient pops and thumps.

All my basses sound great through this whether they are 4 or 5 string, passive or active, fretted, fretless or upright. I just turn that taste knob to what sounds good and I'm off and rockin'!

So far very pleased and glad I took the plunge!
 
Anyone here using the Puma 350? I have not yet the fan turn on while I am playing or at start up, nor has the amp yet felt hot during a rehearsal or show. Anyone else have yet to hear the fan on their Puma? Not concerned that something is wrong with the amp; just curious to know whether I have an especially cool model or something.
 
Anyone here using the Puma 350? I have not yet the fan turn on while I am playing or at start up, nor has the amp yet felt hot during a rehearsal or show. Anyone else have yet to hear the fan on their Puma? Not concerned that something is wrong with the amp; just curious to know whether I have an especially cool model or something.

Hi, I have Puma 350 and had exact concerns as you have. So I wrote an email to their support and got response in few hours. The fan on puma 350 specifically doesn't have test during power on. 500 and 1000 model have. don't worry everything is fine, because amp has very good passive cooling so fan will go on only in few hours of high volume playing. In 6 months of using it in various conditions, fan started only few times.
 
Hi, I have Puma 350 and had exact concerns as you have. So I wrote an email to their support and got response in few hours. The fan on puma 350 specifically doesn't have test during power on. 500 and 1000 model have. don't worry everything is fine, because amp has very good passive cooling so fan will go on only in few hours of high volume playing. In 6 months of using it in various conditions, fan started only few times.

Wow! Thanks for the response. That was exactly what I was hoping to hear.
 
I've recently been gigging with a strange looking combination of cabs that is surprisingly effective.

Tecamp Puma 1000
into
Glockenklang Double 12 (2x12) @ 4ohms
and
Genz Benz Neo 2x12 @ 4ohms

I'm finding the rich bottom end of the Glock combines nicely with the slightly growly and biting tone of the Genz. In many ways, the Glock operates as a full range low cab and the Genz a full range high cab. As with anything I run through the Tecamp, the rig is responsive, punchy and powerful. It's a monster tone to use in my rock trio with Lowend Jazz basses.

Rig.jpg
 
I'm interested in how they compare soundwise. I don't really need the extra power of the 500, but I do really like the sound of it.

The 350 is a fair bit cheaper.

Thanks !

I didn't tried Puma500 but after receiving my Puma 350 I realised that it have same characteristics that are described here by KJung and others regarding 500 model. If you don't need 500w of power, go for it.
 
What the little I have heard from this amp (KJungs Video) I would be very interested in this amp. The only thing that I don't like is the 8 ohm to 4ohm switch. I wish they can bridge to 4 ohms. I guess digital amps in general cannot do that. But I am impressed with the sound.
 
What the little I have heard from this amp (KJungs Video) I would be very interested in this amp. The only thing that I don't like is the 8 ohm to 4ohm switch. I wish they can bridge to 4 ohms. I guess digital amps in general cannot do that. But I am impressed with the sound.

I believe all the TecAmp 'dual amp' models (1000 and Bonafide) now bridge into 4ohms. That means that each side is running at 2ohms, which always makes me a bit nervous with these very high powered amps crammed into that little box, but I would assume they have dealt with the heat issue. I believe as long as you don't use the rack bag (i.e., allow full ventilation) it is fine.
 
I believe all the TecAmp 'dual amp' models (1000 and Bonafide) now bridge into 4ohms. That means that each side is running at 2ohms, which always makes me a bit nervous with these very high powered amps crammed into that little box, but I would assume they have dealt with the heat issue. I believe as long as you don't use the rack bag (i.e., allow full ventilation) it is fine.
There isn't any heat "issue", and there's absolutely no reason to be nervous about running any amp within it's design tolerances. Would you be nervous about running a 4 ohm minimum head at 4 ohms? Same thing. No reason for concern at all.
 
There isn't any heat "issue", and there's absolutely no reason to be nervous about running any amp within it's design tolerances. Would you be nervous about running a 4 ohm minimum head at 4 ohms? Same thing. No reason for concern at all.

There are a few reports of the Bonafide getting VERY hot when run bridged at 4ohms (i.e., 2ohms per side) when installed in the rack bag. Not good.

And again, there is a wide variance of what it means to 'be within its tolerance' running at 2ohms, which is again, as we've discussed many times, quite different from 4ohms (in other words, there aren't solid state amps with special 'switches to run at 4ohms' like there are at 2ohms... and there aren't any solid state amps that I am aware of that say 'well, the amp is OK to operate at 4ohms, but we wouldn't recommend it), since that impedance is so much lower (i.e., allows so much more power and hence heat) in an absolute sense.

We know from experience that 2ohm operation is a bit different than 4ohm, and manufacturers seem to deal with 2ohm operation in different ways (from just beefing up the vents and cooling at one extreme to actually having a 'transformer tap' to make the amp safe to run at that very low impedance). However, when you put two amps running full out at 2ohms very close to one another in a very small box.... IMO you are possibly asking for trouble.
 
There are a few reports of the Bonafide getting VERY hot when run bridged at 4ohms installed in the rack bag. Not good.

And again, there is a wide variance of what it means to 'be within its tolerance' running at 2ohms, which is again, as we've discussed many times, quite different from 4ohms (in other words, there aren't solid state amps with special 'switches to run at 4ohms' like there are at 2ohms, since that impedance is so much lower (i.e., allows so much more power and hence heat) in an absolute sense.

We know from experience that 2ohm operation is a bit different than 4ohm, and manufacturers seem to deal with 2ohm operation in different ways. However, when you put two amps running full out at 2ohms very close to one another in a very small box.... IMO you are possibly asking for trouble.
Ok, so in this case, what it really boils down to, is bad amp design. In that case, I agree with your concern.

I thought this was just a general case of "2 ohm fear factor", which there's absolutely no reason for unless it's known for a fact the amp in question "didn't do it right". Sounds like Tom didn't do this one right. If he states 2 ohm support, then he should do it completely safely, including racked conditions. Sounds like that's not the case. Not good. :(
 
Ok, so in this case, what it really boils down to, is bad amp design. In that case, I agree with your concern.

I thought this was just a general case of "2 ohm fear factor", which there's absolutely no reason for unless it's known for a fact the amp in question "didn't do it right". Sounds like Tom didn't do this one right. If he states 2 ohm support, then he should do it completely safely, including racked conditions. Sounds like that's not the case. Not good. :(

As we've discussed many, many times, it of course is all based on execution. However, since there doesn't really seem to be these issues with 8ohm or 4ohm operation, running an amp at 2ohms does seem to result in some different sort of issues, and there are a wide range of amp designs that 'allow' for 2ohm operation. I personally trust very few of them for long term, hard use, and again always suggest that a player plan his cab purchases so that he/she does not have to push an amp night after night hard at 2ohms.

If one, for whatever reason, feels compelled to combine cabs that result in 2ohms, it seems that the designs with those transformer tap switches like the non SMPS Genz amps and the some of the Mesa amps, would be the way to go.
 

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