I'll join the chorus. I'm really hoping that it impresses me but either way I'll be buying a Streamliner 600 before I buy this.
Same here. I'd rather carry it around than an SVT
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I'll join the chorus. I'm really hoping that it impresses me but either way I'll be buying a Streamliner 600 before I buy this.
I'll be buying a Streamliner 600 before I buy this.
Why would you buy the Streamliner over the 1969, and if you get the streamliner will you use it with the VT Bass pedal?
Very true. Remember folks, volume has far more to do with your speakers than it does with the watts coming out of the amp. Assuming no marketing tricks have been employed in their calculation, 300 watts should be plenty. Unless you're Derek Smalls and need an 8x15 cab.Worth noting that 300 watts go a long way with an effecient cab. I barely ask anything above idle effort from my SVT-II through my 610, which is rated at 105db@1w/1m. It wasn't anywhere as loud through my SVT810. My 30w tube head through my Bad End Cab can take out your hearing. Pair this head with the right cab and mmmmm...
Remember folks, volume has far more to do with your speakers than it does with the watts coming out of the amp. Assuming no marketing tricks have been employed in their calculation, 300 watts should be plenty. Unless you're Derek Smalls and need an 8x15 cab.![]()
That was what I was getting at with that post. Efficiency goes a long, long way. I shudder every time some kid wants to go from 500 to 900 watts through a cheap, inefficient rig and has their mind made up that cabs aren't the issue. I did my research before I bought any cab in the last year. I made sure my Genz was one of the best on the market in it's price bracket before I bought it.
I prefer sealed, tweeter-less cabs. There are plenty of cabs that are more efficient, but they are my preference for the tone they provide, so I need my amp to be able to do more of the work to get the volume I need.
Let me correct myself. I bought the best cab for me.I know that my preferences aren't right for everyone. I won't critique you for getting your tone how you do and I understand that this amp just isn't for you. I also realize that it would probably be a lot cooler if the Tech 21 was a higher powered alternative to an SVT for you (and others). I don't meant to argue this bit. I'm just of the category of player that it would work for so it's rating doesn't irk me so much.
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@andrew
But has any one tried this pre and power section together?!
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@andrew
But has any one tried this pre and power section together?
Unless someone ran a Bass VT into the power amp of a Landmark 300, I doubt anyone outside of Tech 21 (or maybe NAMM?) has tried any semblance of this combination.
I didn't count but it seems like the consensus is 50/50
PeaCe

What bass do you use? It sounds like the VT is feeding the LM's input a hotter signal than your bass does without it.
Actually only a and b was childish
But I'm not takin' it back
I would say the naysayers of a product
that they haven't even touched is childish
It actually doesn't matter which bass I use, my quietest passive or my active Yamaha. If I set the amp's gain just below the point where the clip light would flicker when I dig in hard, and then turn on the pedal, I am able to turn up the pedal volume to make the sound a LOT louder before it starts causing that light on the amp to flicker. If it were just putting out a bigger signal, wouldn't it cause the clip light to flicker at an apparent volume level just barely over where it is with the pedal off? It's almost like the signal is actually less hot but produces an tone that sounds a lot hotter to the ear. It's weird and I don't know how it could be doing it unless it screens out power-hungry ultra lows that aren't necessary for the audible tone to sound deep and full.
It actually doesn't matter which bass I use, my quietest passive or my active Yamaha. If I set the amp's gain just below the point where the clip light would flicker when I dig in hard, and then turn on the pedal, I am able to turn up the pedal volume to make the sound a LOT louder before it starts causing that light on the amp to flicker. If it were just putting out a bigger signal, wouldn't it cause the clip light to flicker at an apparent volume level just barely over where it is with the pedal off? It's almost like the signal is actually less hot but produces an tone that sounds a lot hotter to the ear. It's weird and I don't know how it could be doing it unless it screens out power-hungry ultra lows that aren't necessary for the audible tone to sound deep and full.
Unless someone ran a Bass VT into the power amp of a Landmark 300, I doubt anyone outside of Tech 21 (or maybe NAMM?) has tried any semblance of this combination.