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The Aleph - A Call for Opinions

#61
JustForSport said:
Too bad that table (it's maple?) isn't about 6" longer :woot:;)
Click to expand...
;) It's the cast off maple table that ended up in the basement to be abused by my kids, and this week by me due to it being too cold in the garage to be joining anything with a water based glue.
 
#62
The clamps came off this morning and the blank has a bow in it. :sour: Since I am not using an adjustable rod I am going to have to get it straight before I route the channel for the 1/2" steel square tube. My options seem to be

1) Clamp it down to my metal work bench and route the channel so that it is properly square, and then epoxy in the tube to keep it straight
2) Borrow the use of a jointer to get it squared up, or
3) Buy a truss rod so that I can correct the bow

As this is a prototype option 3 is a non-starter. I think I am going to start with option 1 and see how it goes, and then proceed to option 2 if necessary. I have my flame proof suit on today, so feel free to berate me. ;)
 
#63
How much of a bow? If it's small, you should just use a truss rod. Berate berate berate berate. :) Or just call it "pre-string-relief", and make it super-stiff so the strings don't increase it.
 
#64
ctmullins said:
How much of a bow? If it's small, you should just use a truss rod. Berate berate berate berate. :) Or just call it "pre-string-relief", and make it super-stiff so the strings don't increase it.
Click to expand...

It's small, and it's a back bow so it's possible that string tension would take care of it except that I will be using a steel rod and not a truss rod so it's also possible that if I don't straighten it before I route the channel and install the steel tube I will just cement the bow in. If I had a truss rod available I would use it, but it would be at least another two to four weeks before I would be able to get my hands on one. The "pre string relief" suggestion might just come in handy...good call.
 
#65
8 strings x approx 40# =320#. Even at the shallow angle of the strings, it may be alright, even if you epoxy the 1/2" (is that rod, or tube?) in. If tube, I think if may just bend enough. 1/2" rod or 3/4" tube- I dunno.
 
#66
JustForSport said:
8 strings x approx 40# =320#. Even at the shallow angle of the strings, it may be alright, even if you epoxy the 1/2" (is that rod, or tube?) in. If tube, I think if may just bend enough. 1/2" rod or 3/4" tube- I dunno.
Click to expand...

I am using a 1/2" steel tube, and this prototype is going to be the 5 string variant so that I can use of the head pieces I have on hand.
 
#67
It may be good to brace the neck straight while epoxying the tube in, then the string tension should give just a little (hopefully the right amount) of relief.
1/2" tube is pretty stiff over 24"- 26", but does bend a bit initially.
If it gives the right amount of flex, 3/4" may be good for an 8 string.
I was bending the different sized square and rectangle tubes a while ago, so I'm curious as well to see how they will work out.
I've had epoxy lift right off of clean steel tubing before (over-runs, and drips from using it on other things) so you may want to consider drilling some holes near the ends of the front and back sides to lock them into place in the slot.
 
#68
JustForSport said:
It may be good to brace the neck straight while epoxying the tube in, then the string tension should give just a little (hopefully the right amount) of relief.
1/2" tube is pretty stiff over 24"- 26", but does bend a bit initially.
If it gives the right amount of flex, 3/4" may be good for an 8 string.
I was bending the different sized square and rectangle tubes a while ago, so I'm curious as well to see how they will work out.
I've had epoxy lift right off of clean steel tubing before (over-runs, and drips from using it on other things) so you may want to consider drilling some holes near the ends of the front and back sides to lock them into place in the slot.
Click to expand...

In the last build I rough sanded the surface on all four sides to try and get the best adhesion, but I like the idea of drilling some holes to help set things in. You are a treasure trove of useful thoughts. ;)
 
#69
I did not intend for this thread to end up being a build thread, but life is like that sometimes. My lovely wife gave me an early Xmas present of a trip to the local hardwood retailer, and an item or two to support the bass shaped object that the wood is intended for. I picked up some white limba, and a nice ambrosia maple board. The wormy maple is intended for the fingerboard, and the limba will be used for the body and neck. I ordered a double action truss rod from Stewmac....you thought I was going to use that steel rod...didn't you! I am planning on chambering it, and I may try to darken up the fingerboard with some with dye. The worm holes will need to be filled with epoxy

Here's an updated concept using pix of the wood.

aleph-5-wide_zpsabd687bf.png
 
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#71
Oh, that's nice!
If you're using epoxy for the worm holes, there will be a differing hardness to the board unless it's a full epoxy coat, or maybe use some (just a little) micro balloons/spheres in the filler.
Nice grain and balance- it'll darken a bit with finish?
 
#73
Thanks guys. It will darken up a bit with an oil based finish. I will do a few tests to see what I like best in regards to dye, stain, etc. I want to mount pickups from the back, but I am worried about the extended distance that will introduce in regards to "pickup height". Swapping magnets for a pair of high powered neo's *should* fix that, but I have no experience doing that so I am not sure what the results would be.
 
#78
HaMMerHeD said:
It looks very....stretched and squished, to me. Stretched along the string axis, squished perpendicular to it. I guess I like my basses to be curvy and voluptuous. Yours is very sleek and slender. There's nothing wrong with it, of course, but I'm having a hard time seeing past the "athleticism" of it.
Click to expand...

I hear you. I was surprised how much I liked the thinned down aesthetic with a recent prototype, and this design happened by accident as this thread has progressed. I have a "fuller" design for a 6 string that I may print up and compare side by side to see which I prefer. Nothing is carved in stone until the blades hit the wood, and maybe not even then... ;)
 
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#79
I just can't resist throwing my two cents in... I agree with Hammerhead about the squished and stretched look on the 5 string. Not a big deal but it almost seems like a "backpacker" bass now. I really liked the 8 string with the sound holes in the front upper bout. For some reason I was instantly struck with a vision of Steve Bailey playing it in a studio or rehearsal room, then standing up and carrying it around by the upper bout with his fingers in the sound holes like a bowling ball. :roflmao:
 
#80
This would not be much of a "Call for options" thread if I refused to entertain opinions, now would it?!? ;) I like the thinner aesthetic in general, but the upper bout/horn/etc. on the bass side does feel a little squished. I made a couple of modifications - what think thee?

Alternate 1:
aleph-5-wide_zps3151b377.png


Alternate 2:
aleph-5-wide-2_zps5f5d002d.png
 

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