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The Aleph - A Call for Opinions

#81
I like this one a lot:

aleph-5-wide-2_zps320f2b57.png
 
#83
randyripoff said:
I think whatever you decide to build will be really good. I also think there's a point at which soliciting opinions just keeps you from getting stuff done. I kind of just want to see you keep moving forwards.
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I really appreciate that - thank you very much! I am a Citrix architect by trade, and I have a lot of experience with planning paralysis keeping a project from moving forward. If I was 100% happy with the design, or using cheap materials, I would have just gone for it in a similar fashion to other builds I have done for myself. In this case I was unexpectedly gifted with some nice wood and want to make sure I take the time to be fully happy with the design before proceeding.

If I tried to incorporate everyone's suggestions it would be a disaster, but taking them and giving a new design a look see is very much worth the effort for me at this stage. When I am satisfied with my plan I will settle in and move forward. The last iteration I posted is 99% there for me. I am going to print it up, lay it on the body blank I glued up, and if it feels right I will most likely start cutting material out today or tomorrow.
 
#89
placedesjardins said:
That's going to be narrow. It would be kind of cool to be finished in all gloss black. That's just me. Looks like you want it natural wood to show through.
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That would look killer, but as you suspect I am very invested in having the natural character of the wood show through for this build. The limba darkens up quite a bit with a Tru Oil finish, and aniline dye may be employed.
 
#92
Thanks guys! She's so light that I think I am going to eschew chambering the body except where absolutely necessary. I don't plan on having any knobs, and I will use shielded cable for any electronics. One thing I have been considering is crafting the headpiece out of Ambrosia Maple instead of using aluminum, and making a pickup cover so that I can plug in a pair of magnetic pickups. I have a pair of J pups that I can use to make a "soapbar" out of.

She's going to be strung with a set of black nylon tapewounds tuned B to D.
 
#93
The top wings got the band saw treatment, and the neck "heel" was shaped a bit to fit the body. The angle of the below shot makes the neck seem a lot shorter than it is. I have been going back and forth on whether to chamber it, but a bathroom scale weigh in comes in at 5 pounds as is. I am going to refrain from a control cavity and use outboard electronics to keep it simple. That will allow me to experiment with pre-amp designs for the under saddle piezo and keep things simple. I am a simple man, though many would say simple minded...

I love the grain of the limba on the top and am pondering whether to darken the fingerboard, though it looks pretty good natural. Tru Oil tests on the maple are showing zero darkening, even when dye has been applied, so I need to be 100% happy with the color before adding epoxy or Tru Oil.

DSC_0436_zps783604b7.jpg
 
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Reactions: flameworker, Hamish MacCleod and JustForSport
#95
JustForSport said:
Sure looks nice! the last photo looks more grayish and lighter than browns (maybe the flash?) but the grains, lines and color tones work very well together.
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Thanks!

That photo was done with natural light and no flash. There is definitely some gray in the mix, but for some reason the reds are very muted in that pic. When the Tru Oil flies the colors on the Limba will pop - I love the way Limba reacts to oil finishes. The fingerboard will stay pretty much the same color unless I tint the Tru Oil a bit, or decide to dye it. I am leaning towards just keeping everything the natural wood colors, but darken the edges to get that "micro burst" effect I have in the concept.

I am leaning towards a 16" fingerboard radius, and a neck profile that looks something like this:

aleph-neck-profile_zpsb1b1bfe2.png
 
#96
Looks killer! 17mm spacing is perfect.

Once you get past 5 string, the technique for playing changes dramatically, its almost like a 4 and a 6 are different instruments, I tried one of those Conklin 7's too and didn't even notice it was wide.

I don't personally like the sound of a piezo near the nut, but a lot of people do.

Another thing, I found one of those piano tuners, and tried a regular drill bit on the drill press the other day, if you set it slow, and use a drop of 3-1 oil, and go up starting with a 1/8" bit, I drilled it much easier than it was to do with a high speed diamond bit. Clamp it with vice grips between wood and leather to protect it. Took like 5 minutes.
 
#97
michaelwayneharwood said:
The body has been freed from it's fibrous prison, and a quick pairing with one of the fingerboards was done. She's going to be a svelte little minx.

DSC_0304_zps07294877.jpg
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I'm Not usually a fan of headless designs, but if instead of cutting off the top, if it was left as shown, would that mess with your design method? or could it be done? The asymmetrical/natural look "fixes" my disdain for headless.

I would also leave the thing poking out the bottom too, I just think it looks nice that way.
 
#98
flameworker said:
I'm Not usually a fan of headless designs, but if instead of cutting off the top, if it was left as shown, would that mess with your design method? or could it be done? The asymmetrical/natural look "fixes" my disdain for headless.

I would also leave the thing poking out the bottom too, I just think it looks nice that way.
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Both of those options would be possible with a little tweaking to the design. Alas, the organic lines on the top of the headstock have been cut straight, and the bottom has been shaped to fit the body... I am planning on using this base design for a 7 or 8 string at some point this coming year, so I may incorporate your ideas and see what flies. ;)

I am also considering changing the neck profile so that the angle on the treble side has a slight concavity to it rather than a straight plane. I am thinking that it *might* provide a natural thumb resting place. The neck profile is based on a Rick Toone design, but with enough modifications that I *believe* that I am safe from a legal perspective Since this is an experimental build for myself I doubt it matters much as that kind of use is protected, but I really like the base idea and would like to modify it enough that I could use it for commissions if possible. If it works out I might apply for a patent just to protect myself legally, but not with the intention of keeping others from using the design or profiting from it. I am not so arrogant that I think my ideas novel enough that anyone else would want to incorporate them into their own builds, but if anyone does please know that I consider all of my work open game to use. I like sharing, and if my my amateurish efforts can be used to assist in someone else's design or process I would be honored if they would feel free to do so.
 
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#99
flameworker said:
Looks killer! 17mm spacing is perfect.

Once you get past 5 string, the technique for playing changes dramatically, its almost like a 4 and a 6 are different instruments, I tried one of those Conklin 7's too and didn't even notice it was wide.

I don't personally like the sound of a piezo near the nut, but a lot of people do.

Another thing, I found one of those piano tuners, and tried a regular drill bit on the drill press the other day, if you set it slow, and use a drop of 3-1 oil, and go up starting with a 1/8" bit, I drilled it much easier than it was to do with a high speed diamond bit. Clamp it with vice grips between wood and leather to protect it. Took like 5 minutes.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The spacing on this build is 16mm and I will let you know how it feels. I have small hands so this may be a better fit for me personally than a wider spacing. My experiments with piezo's above the nut has shown that tapping and sliding down introduce the vibrations from the top of the neck into the sound, which throws unexpected tonalities into the mix. This could be an interesting effect if intended, but would play havoc with my playing unless it was planned.

Thanks for the advice on the pins! I found a method for drilling that works quite well using a block that I mount the pins into and then use my drill press. I get consistently excellent results as long as I am careful and take my time.

In regards to the plahing style chage between 4 and 6 or more strings I have not found this to be true in my case, but I don't use a traditional playing style. I use all of my fingers for plucking and incorporate a variety of techniques. I use my thumb a lot, and never use a pick. I am not disdainful of picks, but I have found I am a better player with my fingers. A good example of this is my method for playing Yes' "Roundabout". Instead of using a pick I use my thumb with varying up and downstrokes for the main galloping theme, and it works very well for me.
 
#100
Cool cool cool. Frank zappa had a piezo installed in his headstock, I was just reading about it.

Glad you worked out pin drilling, try 3-1oil? Keeps bits sharp. I'm going to try a pin based build now as well. I think it's a great idea. Tuners are damn expensive, I tried a few of the super cheap amazon brands, the 6 for 15$ 20-1 sealed ones, so far they are pretty good, but 3 of 3 have all been unlubricated, once I figure out how to get the back plate off clean.


I'm also stripping a sr505 and doing a burst (trying) with black analine dye, and purple. Once I have all the chemicals together I'll start a thread.

I've been working on cabinets lately, getting back to making basses will be a welcome change.

I really like this build, it has a great flow, can't wait to see it completed.

Have you tried red oak or cedar? I have a bunch a killer old woodworking ebooks, I'll send you an email with some. One is a 1897 book on french finish ing that is really useful. Another thing I found in them is a chemical reaction that happens with oak when exposed to ammonia fumes, imo better than the iron/steel method.

In regards to neck patent, if you improve a design you can "patent jump", I don't understand completely, but the mIL spec machinist I'm preparing to work with's family retain s a team of 4 patent lawyer s so if your really worried about it I'll print out Toole's page and ask them about it when I meet with them about a few other things. I think you will be fine, i like the trapezoid also.

Happy luthier ing!
 

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