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The best 34" 5-string bass?

#103
MM Stingray 5 is kinda heavy for people smaller than me. So I would suggest the Sterling 5. I love the sterlings balance and weight, as well as the pickup switching options on the single H.
These basses are very solid and take and hold a good setup. If you have a bad B on an EBMM you need to evaluate you choice of strings.

Also in my brief scan of the thread I saw no mention of Lakland? I usedto think they had crap b strings on those but after a visit to a different store I realized that my initial impression was based on cheap strings or a poor setup.

I've encountered Laklands with b strings that were too tight as well as too loose. But when they are set up right, with good strings they sound great. Only reason I dont own one is that I prefer to spend my money on basses manufactured stateside, and the domestic Laklands are $$$$!
 
#105
It sounds like it could be in the nut. An easy way to test this is to loosen the string, take it out of the nut, and put a piece of paper in the seat for the B in the nut and then replace the string and tighten. Doing this will obviously create a tighter fit in the nut for the B string. If the rattle is gone - there is a fair chance the nut slot is too big/loose for the string.
 
#107
KingRazor said:
It's not that it's "floppy", it's that when I pluck the string, it rattles.
Click to expand...

The string rattles or you hear fret buzz? String rattle is an indication that somewhere along the speaking length of the string, it is not making sufficient contact with the bass or bridge. Fret buzz is the result of the string vibrating against the frets. which could be due to a poor setup or uneven frets that require dressing.
 
#109
Kwesi said:
The string rattles or you hear fret buzz? String rattle is an indication that somewhere along the speaking length of the string, it is not making sufficient contact with the bass or bridge. Fret buzz is the result of the string vibrating against the frets. which could be due to a poor setup or uneven frets that require dressing.
Click to expand...
I would definitely say it is "rattling" as opposed to "buzzing".
 
#110
+1 for G&L

I had an ash fretless '84 L1000 that I strung B-D....sounded and played ridiculously good. I only sold it because after a year of gigging I went back to wanting all five strings. I did not get an L2500 because I don't like the look compared to the 4 string, but I see no reason why the 5 string would not sound just as good.
 
#114
Wow, I was just on Carvin's website and had no idea how many custom options you have with their basses. I'm definitely going to save up some money and get one some day.

BTW in regards to my own personal 5 string, I did alleviate some of the rattling/buzzing by raising the action of the B string. It no longer matches the radius of the fretboard like the other strings, but so far it hasn't interfered with my playing at all, so I think it was worth it.

I'm still going to try the .142 gauge B string from circle K once my current set dies and hopefully the added tension (roughly 42 and 1/2 pounds) will help.
 
#116
OK since this is such a subjective thread really about nothing more than opinion I guess I'll throw my opinion in the ring.

First a list of basses I've owned/currently own with a low B:
Ken Smith BSR5M 34"
Warrior custom 34"
Tobias Classic (Gibson era) 34"
Elrick Evo Hybrid 35"
G&L US L2500 fretless 34"
G&L US L2500
Lakland Skyline 55-02 35"
Zon Sonus Standard 34"

Obviously some of those are over $1500 and some are 35". But out of that list the new Zon Sonus Standard is the top of my list for the price. You can get one new less than $1500. Actually $1250 - $1300 if you shop around. IMHO they are amazing sounding instruments. I get so many comments on the clarity of the B but equally on the balanced highs. It's just a very balanced instrument across all strings. You can set up with incredibly low action too. They really are very nice.

For what it's worth G&L is nice too and more aggressive. But there isn't the same kind of action flexibility IMHO. Different look too and heavier. But awesome in it's own way. I own one now and the Zon. Both get equal play time now. But I'd give the slight edge to Zon if the top criteria is tight B.

Hope this helps you in some way.
 
#117
Have not read the whole thread, but volunteer that I bought my Sadowsky Metro M5-24 used for like $1700, and it has the best 34" B-string of ANY bass I've ever played, including a few NYC Sadowsky jazz-types and some other high-end contenders.

Set-up also makes a huge difference, and selecting sensible strings is also a factor.
 
#119
EBMM Stingray 5
EBMM Bongo 5
Fender American P5
Fender American Jazz 5

I agree with someone mentioning the Dingwall Combustion, however it does not fit in the 34" category. That said, I prefer 34" basses over 35", but the Dingwall's 37" - 34" is quite comfortable and more so than a straight 35" (IMO). If you can get your hands on one, don't rule it out.
 
#120
I agree about EBMM -- I've got an SR5H, and even with inexpensive roundwounds (S.I.T light gauge), the low B is great, growly and well balanced. But a lot of the sonic energy for the lowest tones is definitely in the harmonics -- they sound bright.

On the other hand, I've got an Ibanez SR505 set up with Labella 760FMs (good quality flatwounds), and the low B is 0.128 (like a tree-trunk). The Low B is well balanced with the others, and everything is warm and round (opposite to the stingray). The sonic energy is much more in the fundamental, much less in the harmonics. So Low B sounds LOW. SR505 is about $595 new, I think.

So here's my thought: I noticed a lot of comments about the importance of setup and strings -- all true, I'm sure -- but not much about the effect of flatwounds in particular. Do any of you EBMM Low-B advocates use flats on your Stingrays, Sterlings or Bongos?
 

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