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The Combo Club

With PJB, articulate is the new loud ;)
Yarp and portable....now THAT's small and light...These days I'm doing gigs with a FOH PA...so I don't need the raw SPL that I used to need. As long as it's clear, nearby and has a good DI...and I'm good.
PhilJonesBG-300-007.jpg
 
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Yarp and portable....now THAT's small and light...These days I'm doing gigs with a FOH PA...so I don't need the raw SPL that I used to need. As long as it's clear, nearby and has a good DI...and I'm good.
View attachment 3669430
I haven't got a PJ amp, although I have a Rumble Rig, but I do have slippers just like yours lol
 
Interesting little thread about buzzing from a Hartke Hydrive cab in the TB link supplied (below). This issue can happen with many amps packed for sale, not just Hartke. It relates to the dessicant packets included within the boxing/packaging of the amps and cabs if the packets break open. Great read so give it a look.

Hartke HYDRIVE 112 Buzzing like blown speaker
 
Interesting little thread about buzzing from a Hartke Hydrive cab in the TB link supplied (below). This issue can happen with many amps packed for sale, not just Hartke. It relates to the dessicant packets included within the boxing/packaging of the amps and cabs if the packets break open. Great read so give it a look.

Hartke HYDRIVE 112 Buzzing like blown speaker

I had a different problem with my Hartke HD75. It would buzz/rattle at the rear/top/right corner at about 63 Hz, and when I checked the screws on the corner metal bracing, they were tight. I ended up returning that combo (I bought it used).

What's interesting, is that later I also had a problem with a used Phil Jones Flightcase BG-150 (a different one from the one I ended up buying), also at about 63 Hz, except it was at the rear panel on the left side. Sounded like something might be loose inside.

Maybe it's just a coincidence, but both had a buzz/rattle problem at 63 Hz.
 
Interesting little thread about buzzing from a Hartke Hydrive cab in the TB link supplied (below). This issue can happen with many amps packed for sale, not just Hartke. It relates to the dessicant packets included within the boxing/packaging of the amps and cabs if the packets break open. Great read so give it a look.

Hartke HYDRIVE 112 Buzzing like blown speaker
Great! Now ya gotta vacuum the cab b4 playing? Yeeesh!
 
I had a different problem with my Hartke HD75. It would buzz/rattle at the rear/top/right corner at about 63 Hz, and when I checked the screws on the corner metal bracing, they were tight. I ended up returning that combo (I bought it used).

What's interesting, is that later I also had a problem with a used Phil Jones Flightcase BG-150 (a different one from the one I ended up buying), also at about 63 Hz, except it was at the rear panel on the left side. Sounded like something might be loose inside.

Maybe it's just a coincidence, but both had a buzz/rattle problem at 63 Hz.
That's an easy one. Make sure your B is tuned slightly flat and the C is slightly sharp. Voila, no 63 Hz. :smug::bag:
 
I shared my story about my used Phil Jones BG-150 in the PJB thread, and I'm sharing it here too, in case it might of use to anyone:

I just received the used Flightcase BG-150, and there are a couple of issues with it.

1) When playing lower sub-bass frequency notes (like a low 808 kick drum kind of low frequencies) I noticed the two drivers on the left side are moving far more than the two drivers on the right side, however, if I were to use my finger to dampen the two drivers on the left, the right two drivers will start to move more significantly. It's less noticeable with higher frequencies, but that unevenness is still there. Is this uneven distribution of driver movement normal?

2) The cloth grill cover for one of the circular ports is no longer attached, but it's inside the port. It doesn't rattle or anything when I play, but I'd like to reattach it. It looks to me like it's just a matter of pushing it back into the inside rim of the port, but it would have to be done from the inside, and I'd have to open up the case to get to it. I'm not sure which side will grant me easiest access without having to take the whole thing apart too much.

-----------------------

I actually called them after I posted here. I didn't get to talk to Phil--it was another gentleman. He said the drivers aren't identical clones of each other, so there are bound to be some variations in their coils and flexibility, and as long as they aren't distorting it should be fine. My concern is that if two drivers are working a lot harder than the other two, would that cause an imbalance of frequency response output at those frequencies, or deficiency of volume at those frequencies, but he didn't seem to think that would be an issue.

As for the port cloth screen/grill, I managed to work it back in by putting the ports face down on a table and having that one port off the edge of the table, then move the loose cloth grill tube around until it matched the lip of the port and it slid in by itself--although to get it to go in all the way I had to use my fingers to press against the inner sides and pull down (the cloth of the screen is very loose probably due to someone/something kicking it in in the past).

I ended up having to do some more minor fixes. All the velcro used on the attaching points on the two grill/screens for the 5" drivers were either mostly or totally missing, as none could even attach anymore at all. I cut up some little velcro pieces I had around and attached them to the contact points and now they're okay. (I have no idea why the velcro contact points would be all gone--how did that even happen? I can't imagine any situation where they'd fall off by themselves, and it's more likely someone ripped them off. But why?)

So for now, it seems everything is working properly. I do have 45 days return period to make sure nothing else is wrong that's a deal breaker, so I'll keep playing around with it to make sure everything's okay.

The gentleman on the phone did mention something that was interesting. If you ever wondered why PJB discontinued the BG-150, this is the gist of what he said:

Phil actually loves the BG-150 and BG-300, as they are his favorites--his babies. However, at close enough price points, the BG-300 made the BG-150 somewhat redundant as many people wanted more power than the BG-150 could deliver, and that's really the only reason it was discontinued. I had previously wondered about it and that was my guess too, so what he said confirmed it.

He also said no PJB products ever had the speakers blown out, or the amp dying, but if the drivers ever needs to be replaced, they're only about $60 each, and for the amp it's probably just the fuse that needs to be replaced.

I also asked him if the 50 Hz frequency response of the BG-150 was at +/- 3 dB, but he didn't have that information on hand.

----------------------------

I just got off the phone with my local Guitar Center's store manager. I described to her all the issues with my BG-150 and the repair work I had to do on it, and she was very cool about it and gave me a $117 discount. Originally with tax and shipping the total was $573, and now it's $456.

-----------------------------

I think the best thing about neutral, accurate, and articulate combos like the PJB products, is that they can correct your misconception about the basses and gear you already have.

For example, I held certain opinions about some of my basses based on how they sounded through the combos I played them through (Hartke HD75, Fender Rumble 25), and some of those opinions were negative, because those combos emphasized or were anemic in certain frequencies in their sonic characteristics. My NS Design Radius WAV's piezo pickup with roundwound sounded very unpleasant (piercing and lots of finger noise) through the Rumble 25 due to Fender voicing that combo with very sharp high-mids, but with the BG-150, it sounded great, with that acoustic vibe that I heard in the YouTube videos that got me interesting in getting one in the first place.

I'm very picky about getting neutral/accurate frequency response in my audio gear, and I once thought that wouldn't be possible with bass combos because there would be compromises in their designs, and I'd have to live with colored sounding bass combos. But now my experience with PJB has changed all that.
That is a really good write-up, and I also appreciate your report on how it went with customer service. Sounds like they are at least willing to try and make their customers happy, even if the product was not purchased new.

I'm also fond of getting really neutral sounding gear (not that I really know what that is, but that's for a different post) so I was keen to read your thoughts on that particular rig.
 
Thank you very much. I’m gonna do a little redecorating in my music room on Friday (if there’s no school, of course) and see if I can improve the Double 4’s room placement and do some recording.

Then I’m switching it out for my Ampeg BA-108 and do a quick comparison with the same song or two. I wanna try a first impression sound off. I know it’ll go different but I just want to see which I like better upon immediate listening.

If that makes no sense then I’ll blame it on January cabin fever! :ninja:
Now you're really sounding like my kind of crazy! I must have cabin fever myself! Hope you get to stay home on Friday and have fun. I'll be at work thinking of basses and amps.
 
Hey, I teach too! (Art, photography, music, writing, video game development, animation, video, etc.)

Here's my PJB BG-150. I use the Rane ME30B (seen above the combo) to correct for the room modes at my usual playing spot. On the stand is my NS Design Omni CR5.

View attachment 3669382
Ooo bass AND combo pron! Nice gear. Combo teaching seems to suit you.

With all these teachers on the thread, I'm starting to feel bad about my grammar. Which I cannot spell correctly without the computer suggestions. :(
 
Random update- I am totally digging on my Peavey Basic 40... :D
It gets used almost daily, and I think I'm playing better because of it. :)

Gotta love a handy combo amp.
Will you kindly give us a bit more about what you love most about it? Vintage tone? Options? We do actually like to read about all sorts of combos and what folks like about each one. :thumbsup:
 
I had a different problem with my Hartke HD75. It would buzz/rattle at the rear/top/right corner at about 63 Hz, and when I checked the screws on the corner metal bracing, they were tight. I ended up returning that combo (I bought it used).

What's interesting, is that later I also had a problem with a used Phil Jones Flightcase BG-150 (a different one from the one I ended up buying), also at about 63 Hz, except it was at the rear panel on the left side. Sounded like something might be loose inside.

Maybe it's just a coincidence, but both had a buzz/rattle problem at 63 Hz.
It's because 63 is the devil's hertz. ;)
 
So long as there's a demand for combo pr0n

20191121_130834.jpg


One way to imagine the BG-400 + C4 at right is if the Bass CUB went Hulk. This mini rig-o' doom is 2014 Phil Jones, and will likely serve me all my days. The combo alone will really cover most everything I'm likely to see here. By my reckoning, the combo and extension is going to cover any indoor gig I'm likely to see.

The Cab 27 at lower left is connected to the Elf. The primary reason for the Elf was practical. Or deemed practical. For the C4 and the BG-400 are in different places for a while (owing to "interesting" byways in life), so the amp stork brings the Elf for the C4. Turns out I really like the Elf and arrange a marriage to the Cab 27.

That 2x7 is useful in context of visualizing the approximate sizes of the Session 77 and the Micro 7. The first is the Cab 27 with a 100 watt amp, and the latter is half that.

These seven-inchers are a new look and I like it. There's no defeatable tweeter and I don't care. Because nothing above 5 khz reaches it on account of the cab sim in the VT Bass that is an effective LPF. Naturally thinking of a second Cab 27. :drool:

And yet

Easy to see where I'm plugged in for home volume.