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The Epiphone Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter JaySeeDoubleYou
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Hey,
here is a quick shot of my actual babes:
The two Epi Birds are both limited, the other black bass with stripes is a Schecter JD
Custom (my newest) and the blue one is a Vintage Squier Preci with a pearl pickguard...to be continued...
On all my basses I use GHS Bass Boomers Round Med Light and I play Hartke Systems.
Rockin' greetz from germany to you all, mesza
here is a quick shot of my actual babes:
The two Epi Birds are both limited, the other black bass with stripes is a Schecter JD
Custom (my newest) and the blue one is a Vintage Squier Preci with a pearl pickguard...to be continued...
On all my basses I use GHS Bass Boomers Round Med Light and I play Hartke Systems.
Rockin' greetz from germany to you all, mesza
Attachments
Here's my two birds.
06 MIK VSB
03 MIK Goth early production. Nicely worn in.
And a hard case
VSB has a brighter tone. The Goth feels more solid.
VSB has switchcraft jack and new knobs. Goth has new knobs.
SSB-4's and Supertone Bridge ordered! Thinking about a drop D tuner, but not sure which one is a direct fit.
I traded a gumby head Jackson 5 string for a Nikki Sixx blackbird , mostly stock except for a set of sprerzel locking tuning pegs that don't fit (needs some bushings) I'm wondering about the stock 3 point bridge and the inability of mine to get the action low enough to make this bass playable. I noticed the front screw when bottomed out that the string height was still about 3/16ths(5mm). I removed it and was able to get it down to about 3/32nds but now the strings are not following the neck profile. Is there a easy fix or should I just put a bridge with adjustable saddles?
That front bolt is important to set string break angle. the bridge should be higher on single bolt side so the bridge angles to the rear slightly. It also removes leverage stress on the two rear bolts, they have been known to pull out if bridge is not angled. You must keep the rear of the bridge close to the body.
You should shim your neck if you want to save money. Personally, I flat shimmed mine to get action right without having to raise the bolts too far and keep from adding leverage stress on the bolts, if you get what I am saying. I tried angling the neck but the bolts had to be set too for my liking.
If you want a new bridge, Hipshot makes a Gibson replacement bridge that fits these basses, about 90 bucks. The stocker is not the best design but works fine.
You should shim your neck if you want to save money. Personally, I flat shimmed mine to get action right without having to raise the bolts too far and keep from adding leverage stress on the bolts, if you get what I am saying. I tried angling the neck but the bolts had to be set too for my liking.
If you want a new bridge, Hipshot makes a Gibson replacement bridge that fits these basses, about 90 bucks. The stocker is not the best design but works fine.
I no longer have my Epi 3-point bridge to check this out, but I think the saddles are two different heights. The two taller go in the middle and the shorter on the outsides IIRC. Can anyone confirm if I'm imagining this or not? Never been a big fan of the 3-point, but that Hipshot replacement is awesome.
Hey thanks for the info , I think the saddles were switched around and I think if I counter bore the hole for the anchor for the front screw I won't have to shim the neck
I think you misunderstood me. The frontscrew should be used for angle. The rear two for height. The bridge should angle from high at front to low at rear. But no more than an eighth inch. Max max max!
Don't sink the insert further into the body, eek! Shim the neck, too easy.
Don't sink the insert further into the body, eek! Shim the neck, too easy.
The string saddles being different heights really helped and yes I already had the bridge positioned as you very thoroughly described but the shoulder on the screw is the difference I need to get the action down. I have counter bore tools at wok that have interchangeable pilots so I can easily perform the operation with a mill. And I have come to the conclusion that I don't like the locking tuners so if any one knows of a set of stock tuners please pm me
The saddles on mine are 3 different heights and are numbered 1 thru 4 and now the strings follow the fretboard nicely but I have decided to get the supertone bridge
Would love to join your club. I haven't had a Thunderbird for well over 30 years.....picked this one up from GC used.
I will read your thread tonight, any gig bags recomended? There is a hard case on MF/GC site. But looking for options.
Thanks.
I will read your thread tonight, any gig bags recomended? There is a hard case on MF/GC site. But looking for options.
Thanks.
Since the #1 weakness of the Thunderbird is the headstock, I strongly advise everyone to get a hard case for their 'Bird.
The one that GC/MF sells is worth every penny. It's a great case and I feel that my T-Bird Pro is very secure inside. Plus it has a ton of room for extras.
The one that GC/MF sells is worth every penny. It's a great case and I feel that my T-Bird Pro is very secure inside. Plus it has a ton of room for extras.
I found a TBird Goth used for 200$, new strings and hard case included.
There is a small nick where the wood is showing and he also put a sticker over the “Goth Symbol”.
What is the best way to remove the sticky residue from the pick guard? And should I use normal black paint to cover up the exposed wood?
Thanks!
There is a small nick where the wood is showing and he also put a sticker over the “Goth Symbol”.
What is the best way to remove the sticky residue from the pick guard? And should I use normal black paint to cover up the exposed wood?
Thanks!
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