Just today, I took my Douglas 5-string fretless in for some major surgery, namely installing a pair of EMG pickups and disconnecting the active electronics. For this bad boy, looks like I;ll run it through a Radial Bassbone preamp.
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The Fretless Club
- Thread starter JaySeeDoubleYou
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Howdy. I'm new to this club but not new to the fretless bass. Well sort of new to it. I played URB as kid in Bluegrass and Country bands then a P-bass and then drifted off to other instruments. I just bought a Breedlove fretless that sounds incredible thru a LR Baggs DI and a GK MB150 III.
But the real reason for my post is not about me. I was wondering what companies are building fretless electrics that DO NOT have sissy bars on them? I see Music Man, and one Fender model and some older G&L's. The custom basses are way too expensive for me. I saw a used G&L with a unmarked ebony fingerboard that was beautiful but missed it.
Thanks in advice for any advise.
But the real reason for my post is not about me. I was wondering what companies are building fretless electrics that DO NOT have sissy bars on them? I see Music Man, and one Fender model and some older G&L's. The custom basses are way too expensive for me. I saw a used G&L with a unmarked ebony fingerboard that was beautiful but missed it.
Thanks in advice for any advise.
Bout time I found a fretless club 
I play upright at school and in a jazz band... just started 5 months ago, love pizzicato HATE bowing... Wish i had pics 4 u but no camera's in school...
I play upright at school and in a jazz band... just started 5 months ago, love pizzicato HATE bowing... Wish i had pics 4 u but no camera's in school...333. Gary Lynch. Warwick is probably the most visible, especially at GC. G&L and Carvin make 'em without lines by request. There are probably others but my local stores rarely get fretless basses at all, so the best bet is it the web and browse your favorite makers or see what your dealers can order.
334. Rock-Bassman
334. Rock-Bassman
Thanks for the info. I checked the Warwicks out. You seem to get a lot for your money, especially used. The bridge and saddles look great. The swamp ash body is a plus too. I'm a 4 string player but see they do offer a few models in four string. Simple is better for me. I'm old school for sure and love the fretless sound with flats at lower volumes. Thanks again.
What type strings are you guys using. I've got Fender Flats on mine right now and just not real satisfied with the "mwaah".
Right here.
Took delivery of a LPB fretless P bass. It is in pieces right now As I go over it. I have a few pics.
Cut a new nut this morning, but I'm not quite happy with it. The spacing is just a little off, on the "G" string. It would work, but as long as I'm into it this far for the initial setup, another one is in the works.
The board has been dyed black this morning, and I have put several coats of tung oil on. It is drying right now, and I'll continue tomorrow with severl more coats. The board is very glassy at this point already.
This is all part of phase one of the project. Once I get the basic woodwork where I want it, and it sounds good acoustically, then I'll pop for the new electronics. I'm not gonna spend 80 bucks for new electronics till then.
When I do it will be a set of SD hot for P bass. and a new wiring kit. The bridge will be a vintage Fender assy.
I should have phase one complete by next Friday. Maybe a little longer depending on how the tung oil board finish looks.
The camera batteries are dead today. I'll get some pics of the board by tomorrow.
I've been using Thomastic Infield Flats for a few years now, on my Fender Jazz MiM. Love the feel, the sense of warmth and depth. There's a nice amount of mwahhh. And they sustain for a month. Of course I also tarted up the bass with bartolini pickups and a J-retro preamp. Still, the feel of the strings is really significant, and the TI's are just top notch here, IMHO.
But before you rush to change out strings, just try lowering the action!
Lower action gives you more mwahh. It may require messin' with the truss rod too, to get a super flat fingerboard.
Beware that the lower you go on the action, the lighter touch you need with your picking hand, otherwise you get "fretless" fret clatter. Not necessarily a bad thing, but I've had to work on that myself. Same problem with low action on a fretted bass.
As far as getting maximum mwahhh, others here on TB would say to go with round wounds. I've played a few fretless basses with roundwounds and yes, you can get a ton of mwahhh. DR Sunbeams on a Fretless Nordy = Mwahh heaven! (See posts of Scott Pazera's Fretless Nordy!)
When I was doing the initial inspection on the is SX P bass, I stuck a set of old 9050ml on it. They got plenty of mwah off of the board on this bass. It is all about the setup of the bass.
In fact these 9050 flats sounded REAL good with this bass. I was getting a bit of chatter when playing in first position if I dug in a bit hard.
I find that a nut that is cut to high tends to add to the problem. It is all about the geometry of the triangle of the nut, bridge and board, as your particular action height applies.
When I get this thing put together I think I want to go with some Chromes. Although Roto flats would sound pretty good as well.
In fact these 9050 flats sounded REAL good with this bass. I was getting a bit of chatter when playing in first position if I dug in a bit hard.
I find that a nut that is cut to high tends to add to the problem. It is all about the geometry of the triangle of the nut, bridge and board, as your particular action height applies.
When I get this thing put together I think I want to go with some Chromes. Although Roto flats would sound pretty good as well.
Thanks gary,
Those pics of the neck are after going over it with some 2K grit wet dry paper. The board had not been dyed or oiled at that point. I just wanted to polish the wood and point out any high, and low spots. It is fairly level, but could use some attention, just cause I'm picky like that.
Right now it looks worse becasue the oil finish really shows any spots that are not perfect. After several more coats of tung oil it should be quite smooth. Then lots more sanding with 2K grit paper. I'm looking for a nice glassy hard surface, but not an epoxy finish.
The neck pocket is getting a hardwood shim cut. I'm making a 1/64" tapered, full pocket shim.
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