I know the Noble gets a lot of love and use, but, I preferred pretty much anything over it.
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Edit...I REALLY wish that it had an on/off switch! Instead I have to unplug it when not in use. Small nitpick, though!
I pinged this to you in a DM but figured others might benefit. I use one of these to solve this problem (and to power on/off my CIOKS DC7).
Just stopping in to say that I bought a Grace Design Alix a few days ago. I admittedly struggled with it the first few days. There was a learning curve with it for me. It was sent with the phase reversed. Took me a few minutes to figure that out and it immediately sounded better when I switched it back. I've been used to a dark sounding Acoustic Image amp, and sometimes even plugging directly into the power amp of the AI, which results in a mismatched impedance and quite a dark sound. The Alix fixes this, but it took my ears some time to adjust. Then I had to figure out the fully parametric mid eq. It took me maybe three days of experimentation to find how to best use it for my basses. Then I was super struggling getting the low end that I wanted. I was about ready to give up when I remembered reading before I even got mine that the Alix has an internal jumper for the corner frequency of the bass eq. It was set at the stock setting, which gives you a wider low end. Not particularly what you would normally want for electric bass. I switched the jumper...and there was what I was looking for. It still has a more controlled/more nature low end than you get with most bass amps, but it's really quite wonderful once you get used to it. The preamp itself is warm and full, something I have struggled to get from other floor preamps that I've tried before. This feels and sounds like an extremely high quality piece of gear. Really glad I gave it a go. I couldn't be happier. I'm running it into the power section of my 900 watt Acoustic Image. Here's a clip of it with my semi hollow Martin Keith bass, and with my custom Sinobas closed back 112 cabs.
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Edit...I REALLY wish that it had an on/off switch! Instead I have to unplug it when not in use. Small nitpick, though!
Just stopping in to say that I bought a Grace Design Alix a few days ago. I admittedly struggled with it the first few days. There was a learning curve with it for me. It was sent with the phase reversed. Took me a few minutes to figure that out and it immediately sounded better when I switched it back. I've been used to a dark sounding Acoustic Image amp, and sometimes even plugging directly into the power amp of the AI, which results in a mismatched impedance and quite a dark sound. The Alix fixes this, but it took my ears some time to adjust. Then I had to figure out the fully parametric mid eq. It took me maybe three days of experimentation to find how to best use it for my basses. Then I was super struggling getting the low end that I wanted. I was about ready to give up when I remembered reading before I even got mine that the Alix has an internal jumper for the corner frequency of the bass eq. It was set at the stock setting, which gives you a wider low end. Not particularly what you would normally want for electric bass. I switched the jumper...and there was what I was looking for. It still has a more controlled/more nature low end than you get with most bass amps, but it's really quite wonderful once you get used to it. The preamp itself is warm and full, something I have struggled to get from other floor preamps that I've tried before. This feels and sounds like an extremely high quality piece of gear. Really glad I gave it a go. I couldn't be happier. I'm running it into the power section of my 900 watt Acoustic Image. Here's a clip of it with my semi hollow Martin Keith bass, and with my custom Sinobas closed back 112 cabs.
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Edit...I REALLY wish that it had an on/off switch! Instead I have to unplug it when not in use. Small nitpick, though!
Truth.Glad you got it all figured out. The Alix is a phenomenal sounding solid state DI. It is the closest I have found yet to get you into the tone and feel of tube gear without having tubes. It really does have this spacial "3D" feel to it.
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Looks pretty sweet, especially for $250. Requires 48v though.
it doesn't run on 48v phantom power (like the RNDI for example). It comes with a power adapter that coincidentally just happens to be 48v.
It does have phantom power, so theoretically you could power your RNDI with a Hornet
unfortunately that is the case. I emailed the company, and very quickly got this reply from Peter:So if I'm understanding correctly. You must use the wall wart and can not power the unit via phantom power from the board?
unfortunately that is the case. I emailed the company, and very quickly got this reply from Peter:
"Hi, unfortunately phantom power only provides about 7-14 mA, which is not even enough to power the meter on the hornet. (That's why even some microphones, like early earthworks, can't run on some phantom power supplies.) So the hornet can deliver phantom power, but it can't run on it.
On the bright side, the power supply for the hornet is really small…"
I was tempted to ask him if there was any way they could have made it work with a OneSpot... this product sits at the intersection of Pro Audio and musical instrument amplification, I guess our concerns as musicians just don't factor into design decisions for a product that the company expects to sell to audio engineers.
unfortunately that is the case. I emailed the company, and very quickly got this reply from Peter:
"Hi, unfortunately phantom power only provides about 7-14 mA, which is not even enough to power the meter on the hornet. (That's why even some microphones, like early earthworks, can't run on some phantom power supplies.) So the hornet can deliver phantom power, but it can't run on it.
On the bright side, the power supply for the hornet is really small…"
I was tempted to ask him if there was any way they could have made it work with a OneSpot... this product sits at the intersection of Pro Audio and musical instrument amplification, I guess our concerns as musicians just don't factor into design decisions for a product that the company expects to sell to audio engineers.
Bummer, doesn't even have an IEC type input for power. Rules out a Y-splitter if you're running a CIOKS or similar as well.
So if I'm understanding correctly. You must use the wall wart and can not power the unit via phantom power from the board?
Very curious about that one, but not without a ground lift. Strange decision not to have one.The Useful Arts BF1 is fantastic though it really could use a Ground/Lift switch.