I removed the grommets from my Jetglo. It solved the volume different issue.
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The Hossenfeffer Bass Build
- Thread starter Gilmourisgod
- Start date
I have the same volume imbalance between pickups on my 74 4001. It never bothered me enough to do anything about it, 'cause it gave me the sound I wanted. I also used to use the stereo-out to run the two pickups separately to two pre-amps on the few occasions where I did want a different sound.
I ground down the neck pup case bolt heads so there was barely enough of a screwdriver detent to tighten them back in, and instead of the rubber grommets, I used a thin strip of foam on the short sides fitted between the bolt heads (Just push the pickup mounting screws through the foam) When raised up, the ground down bolt heads are just barely touching the backside of the pickguard.
Even if space allows, you should only lower the bridge pup so far and after that, the tone gets too wierd if you try to match the neck pup output. I always dial the neck volume down a bit for the perfect blend without noticeable scooping.
My E and A saddles have a bit of a bigger groove.
Even if space allows, you should only lower the bridge pup so far and after that, the tone gets too wierd if you try to match the neck pup output. I always dial the neck volume down a bit for the perfect blend without noticeable scooping.
My E and A saddles have a bit of a bigger groove.
I did an intitial setup using this video series by John Caruthers. It a decent set of conservative numbers, if anybody has any suggestions specific to Rics that would allow for a lower action, by all means weigh in:
Truss Rod set for .015" relief at the 7th fret with first fret capo and depressing highest fret
Nut action set at .022" above the first fret. I actually had this set when I made the nut. I've seen this done other ways, like depressing at third fret, then measuring at first.
3/64" string height at highest fret, both E and G strings
It still feels a little higher than I like, I had to crank the trussrod clockwise about 1/2 turn total to get to .015" relief at the 7th.
The neck has developed a tiny bit of fret sprout on the G side since I initially did the fret beveling an leveling, the neck has dried out and shrunk a little in this hyper-dry and cold weather, I guess. Its pretty minor, but I guess I ought to fix it now and be done with it.
The A string bridge saddle buzzes. This seems inherent to the bridge design, since the floating bridge piece is curved, but the saddle bottoms are flat, so they can "rock" a little side to side. Any other Ric owners have a solution for this? Shim the saddles? This is an Allparts repro bridge, not OEM Ric, but they look identical.
I'm getting some fret buzz, pretty minor but definitely there, only the G string. I lost my fret rocker, but using a utility knife blade, got a truly tiny bit of high fret rock at the 14th fret on the G side. It doesn't look like a loose or raised fret, so hopefully I can just dress the one fret. The whole board was leveled a while ago, so I don't know when that happened, but there it is.
I realized I had forgotten to check the Ric-O-Sound output jack. The mono output works fine, but I get nothing at all plugging a mono cord into the stereo jack, can't remember if that's normal without a stereo cord, or if something is amiss with wiring or shorted output somehow.
The bridge pup cover has got to go! Its right where I want to play, and too high for a palm rest. I'm used to palm muting, and its in my way. I remember taking it off my old 4001 immediately, so no surprise there.
I guess these teething pains are par for the course for an amateur build, so I feel pretty good about it. Every step was at the raggedy-ass, bleeding edge of what I can do, so I have no regrets or "if only i tried a little harder".
Truss Rod set for .015" relief at the 7th fret with first fret capo and depressing highest fret
Nut action set at .022" above the first fret. I actually had this set when I made the nut. I've seen this done other ways, like depressing at third fret, then measuring at first.
3/64" string height at highest fret, both E and G strings
It still feels a little higher than I like, I had to crank the trussrod clockwise about 1/2 turn total to get to .015" relief at the 7th.
The neck has developed a tiny bit of fret sprout on the G side since I initially did the fret beveling an leveling, the neck has dried out and shrunk a little in this hyper-dry and cold weather, I guess. Its pretty minor, but I guess I ought to fix it now and be done with it.
The A string bridge saddle buzzes. This seems inherent to the bridge design, since the floating bridge piece is curved, but the saddle bottoms are flat, so they can "rock" a little side to side. Any other Ric owners have a solution for this? Shim the saddles? This is an Allparts repro bridge, not OEM Ric, but they look identical.
I'm getting some fret buzz, pretty minor but definitely there, only the G string. I lost my fret rocker, but using a utility knife blade, got a truly tiny bit of high fret rock at the 14th fret on the G side. It doesn't look like a loose or raised fret, so hopefully I can just dress the one fret. The whole board was leveled a while ago, so I don't know when that happened, but there it is.
I realized I had forgotten to check the Ric-O-Sound output jack. The mono output works fine, but I get nothing at all plugging a mono cord into the stereo jack, can't remember if that's normal without a stereo cord, or if something is amiss with wiring or shorted output somehow.
The bridge pup cover has got to go! Its right where I want to play, and too high for a palm rest. I'm used to palm muting, and its in my way. I remember taking it off my old 4001 immediately, so no surprise there.
I guess these teething pains are par for the course for an amateur build, so I feel pretty good about it. Every step was at the raggedy-ass, bleeding edge of what I can do, so I have no regrets or "if only i tried a little harder".
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- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,720
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
For true? I checked the diagram, and if you use a mono cord in a stereo jack, then you’re connecting ring to sleeve, which shorts out the hot from one pickup, and if the switch is in the center, it would also short out the other pickup. Right? Am I reading that right?
Bummer about the Peavey head! My amp is Mark IV, I love it. If you were closer you could stop by and use mine...
Not sure where my switch actually was at the time, but I'm pretty sure I have connected a regular instrument cord to both and heard awesomeness from both outputs... pic of the schematic? I can check mine later, and give you a full 'report', after work, but I think there are a few TB members available, before then, who can offer up the info...
... just to clarify... mono cord, stereo output, any switch position, no sound? Or, mono cord, stereo output, beck/bridge/both switch position, some sound?
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The way I wired mine, a mono plug in the stereo jack gives only the bridge; if the switch is set to the neck only, then no sound. If you're using the same wiring, and mono jack that I did, the neck and bridge only connect for mono when a plug is in the mono jack.
I must have a problem with the stereo output then, it’s such a tight fit in there, maybe a wire fouled or broke off. Not a pressing problem since I’m currently bass amp-less, and the mono works fine. My first priority fix is the fret sprout and possible high fret, perfect time to do it, with this super dry weather. I guess it was naive to think everything would be perfect right off the bat.
Yeah, I find I use the mono more anyway. I built a splitter box to go from the stereo cord to two mono's. Now I need to figure out a good stereo setup on my pedal board.
@Spidey2112
Mono cord into stereo output, no noise on any pup switch setting. Mono cord into mono output, sound in all positions, Inserting the jack into stereo doesn’t feel restricted or weird, So I don’t think it’s binding up mechanically, more likely a wiring problem. Here’s where a transparent pickguard or x-ray vision might come in handy! Hmmmm... I do have have some lexan sheet stock kicking around.....
Mono cord into stereo output, no noise on any pup switch setting. Mono cord into mono output, sound in all positions, Inserting the jack into stereo doesn’t feel restricted or weird, So I don’t think it’s binding up mechanically, more likely a wiring problem. Here’s where a transparent pickguard or x-ray vision might come in handy! Hmmmm... I do have have some lexan sheet stock kicking around.....
Here's my guess: when weaseling everything in, you may have bent the contacts on the switching portion of the mono jack. Verify that there's a gap when nothing is plugged into the mono jack:
@Spidey2112
Mono cord into stereo output, no noise on any pup switch setting. Mono cord into mono output, sound in all positions, Inserting the jack into stereo doesn’t feel restricted or weird, So I don’t think it’s binding up mechanically, more likely a wiring problem. Here’s where a transparent pickguard or x-ray vision might come in handy! Hmmmm... I do have have some lexan sheet stock kicking around.....
I'm just glad you still have your sense of humor...
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,011
- 1
- 31,720
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Heh. We will photograph no bass before it’s time.... working on the TRC, decal came out sweet, now I’m clearcoating the TRC, have to wetsand and polish it, etc. Had some trouble with the bridge mute.... yadda yadda. Solving all the last minute problems one by one, except the stereo out still not working, which has me a bit perplexed. Should be able to wrap it up by this weekend so Bad Photography can commence.....
That's what I though might be the problem, but.... nope. If anything, I left a bit more space than I absolutely needed around the jacks, they move easily in and out once aligned properly, no sign of anything getting bent out of whack or compressed. I did notice the stereo jack is harder to plug into, more resistance than the mono, but it isn't any different when it's in or out of the bass body. No sign of broken wire or cold solder joints either. I think I must have simply wired tab A to slot B incorrectly someplace, see blood and guts photos below, maybe one one of you wiring gurus can help me diagnose it. In the meantime, I'm having a lot of fun thrashing away on it in Mono. My God, am I rusty! Gotta re-learn some old Yes favorites to do it justice.
Heh, nice solder-burn mark on the neck pup wire shielding. Sloppy!
I really can't see what's wrong here. I'd bet it's in the output harness. The build quality on these from RIC ain't too good, and it's the hardest part of these harnesses to get right so they won't develop problems down the road. I once had a harness with the same symptoms, and in turned out to be an incorrectly produced stereo jack! It didn't have enough bakelite leaves in it, which caused it to self short to a mono jack. Since then I test every harness connection from each jack to the volume pots for continuity.
