The Hossenfeffer IV Build

[Gilmourisgod]

Time to make the the TRC. I have this template from previous builds. I made this one a little pointier in keeping withe Lemmy aesthetic. I wasn't sure how best to polish the edges, so I just did it by hand working from 400 grit up to 12000 micromesh. Tedious but effective. I've seen videos of people doing it with a propane torch, didn't want to risk it.

This will get back-painted some version of cream colored paint that best matches the white binding witha few coats of Tru-Oil over it.

Drilling for hardware:
I don't know why they supply these little pissant screws with strap knobs, I always replace them 1-1/2" stainless.

Pup cavities shielded and the whole bass sanded up to 400 grit. Overkill for the wood, but I want the binding reallt smooth.

And now for finish..... My bottle of Tru-Oil went gummy on me, so more on order. I'm, going to try tinting some a slightly darker brown for the dimpled background around the oak leaf carvings, that's how it's done on most of the Lemmy's I've seen. The leaves themselves, and the rest of the bass, will stay lighter, just straight Tru Oil, probably 5 coats or so, we'll see how it looks. A couple weeks of tedium and it will be done!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Really nice looking bass even without finish.

 

[Verner]

Time to make the the TRC. I have this template from previous builds. I made this one a little pointier in keeping withe Lemmy aesthetic. I wasn't sure how best to polish the edges, so I just did it by hand working from 400 grit up to 12000 micromesh. Tedious but effective. I've seen videos of people doing it with a propane torch, didn't want to risk it.

This will get back-painted some version of cream colored paint that best matches the white binding witha few coats of Tru-Oil over it.

Drilling for hardware:
I don't know why they supply these little pissant screws with strap knobs, I always replace them 1-1/2" stainless.

Pup cavities shielded and the whole bass sanded up to 400 grit. Overkill for the wood, but I want the binding reallt smooth.

And now for finish..... My bottle of Tru-Oil went gummy on me, so more on order. I'm, going to try tinting some a slightly darker brown for the dimpled background around the oak leaf carvings, that's how it's done on most of the Lemmy's I've seen. The leaves themselves, and the rest of the bass, will stay lighter, just straight Tru Oil, probably 5 coats or so, we'll see how it looks. A couple weeks of tedium and it will be done!

I may have missed this, but is that just decal stock you used for the truss cover print?

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yeah, just off the shelf water slide decal paper. I contacted a couple of the custom decal places, but they wanted like $60 for a single sheet. It’s just black and white, so I did it on a work laser copier. If you decide to do some versions of the classic Ric logo, the closest text font is called “Dymaxion”. I used that one originally, but liked the Arts and Crafts style font better.

 

[Verner]

Yeah, just off the shelf water slide decal paper. I contacted a couple of the custom decal places, but they wanted like $60 for a single sheet. It’s just black and white, so I did it on a work laser copier. If you decide to do some versions of the classic Ric logo, the closest text font is called “Dymaxion”. I used that one originally, but liked the Arts and Crafts style font better.

Awesome, thank you!

 

[Level5wizard]

this bass is extremely well done. beautiful

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Two coats in on the Tru-Oil, and it's doing what I hoped: The "dimpled" background is acting like end grain and getting naturally darker than the raised oak leaves and acorns, so I won't have to tint the Tru-Oil. I'll keep going with 1 coat every 24 hours, flattened every other coat with a grey scotchbrite, until I get to a nice semi-gloss. I'm not shooting for glass-smooth here, so no grain filler. I want it to look and feel like wood.

 

[StereoPlayer]

Two coats in on the Tru-Oil, and it's doing what I hoped: The "dimpled" background is acting like end grain and getting naturally darker than the raised oak leaves and acorns, so I won't have to tint the Tru-Oil. I'll keep going with 1 coat every 24 hours, flattened every other coat with a grey scotchbrite, until I get to a nice semi-gloss. I'm not shooting for glass-smooth here, so no grain filler. I want it to look and feel like wood.

Quite simply…gorgeous!


I have the same towels…

 

[TerribleTim68]

Yeah, that's pretty special.

 

[Flying B]

Yeah, not bad!

 

[Isaac_James]

Two coats in on the Tru-Oil, and it's doing what I hoped: The "dimpled" background is acting like end grain and getting naturally darker than the raised oak leaves and acorns, so I won't have to tint the Tru-Oil. I'll keep going with 1 coat every 24 hours, flattened every other coat with a grey scotchbrite, until I get to a nice semi-gloss. I'm not shooting for glass-smooth here, so no grain filler. I want it to look and feel like wood.

Holy moly, that is gorgeous. I'm working on a guitar build that has walnut in the neck which I am also planning to finish with tru-oil to a satin level, and I'll be thrilled if it comes out looking like that.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Holy moly, that is gorgeous. I'm working on a guitar build that has walnut in the neck which I am also planning to finish with tru-oil to a satin level, and I'll be thrilled if it comes out looking like that.

Yeah, love me some Tru-Oil on walnut..... this one I built for my son is holding up pretty well. It's not a super-hard finish, but it's easy to repair, just add more Tru-Oil. You do have to let it cure for 3-4 weeks though.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Lost count, but I think this is about 8 coats, flattened with grey scotchbrite every other coat. I think I'll just do one more coat and try to make it as perfect and dust free as possible. The pollen is really tuning up, so that may be impossible, but I'll give it a shot. Then it has to hang for at least a couple weeks. Waddya think? Keep it real shiny, or knock it back to satin?

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Lost count, but I think this is about 8 coats, flattened with grey scotchbrite every other coat. I think I'll just do one more coat and try to make it as perfect and dust free as possible. The pollen is really tuning up, so that may be impossible, but I'll give it a shot. Then it has to hang for at least a couple weeks. Waddya think? Keep it real shiny, or knock it back to satin?

Shiny

 

[Videojunkie]

Another vote for shiny. That walnut just glows in the sunlight!

 

[JIO]

I like satin - feels great and it still shows off the grain. Shiny invites glare - better pics with satin. Great work whatever you choose!

 

[ardgedee]

A vote for satin. Glossy dark wood carvings always look kind of cheap. A satin finish makes it look more like a statement.

 

[Isaac_James]

I like satin finishes myself but I've got to admit that looks gorgeous as it is.

 

[TerribleTim68]

I like shiny.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Shiny it is then! Natural wear and tear will tend to knock it back to satin anyway, but might as well start out with some bling. One or two more coats and it's done then, and I'll start assembling it. I still have to make another brass nut, and the wiring is going to be... a challenge....