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The John East preamp club

So here are a few tech EQ words that are important to understand the bass window feature.
Shelf: can be high or low or whatever frequencies you want, it has a Frequency Value and then everything underneath or above is boosted of a decided amount (gain)
Example bass shelf at 40Hz with +4dB: everything underneath 40Hz is boosted at the same value, then after 40Hz, it goes back to flat.
This is the kind of EQ setting there's in most onboard Preamps and it's what makes the East so great to me, because all the preamps I've tested always had super low frequency for bass and it makes the sound very muddy.

Now there's another type of EQ setting it's called the Band EQ or Peak EQ:
Basically there's a frequency chosen to be boosted or cutted, and a bandwidth (also called Q) that's going to affect how you're affecting the frequencies around the selected one.
For example: 250hz band EQ at +4dB with a tight bandwidth: imagine a spike at 250Hz almost like a needle.
If you enlarge the bandwidth, you go from a spike to a wave.

So to come back to the East, the bass window settings are opening at 20 up to 80 Hz for the lower part of the bass window and closing at 40 up to 200 for the higher setting.
Lower setting controls when your bass window starts. High setting controls when it finishes.
(Technically there's an impossible spot like open at 80 and close at 40... )

So it means you have a band EQ for your bass with appropriate settings. You can go LOW at:
20 - 40 Hz (medium bandwidth) and then the knob you have on your bass for bass will control the gain of bass...
Or you can go super large bandwidth at
40 to 200 Hz, which comes into the lower mids area.
Or you can put a meaty solid bass setting without having sub-frequencies at: 60 - 100 Hz or 80 - 100 Hz.

But if anyone played with these settings could they tell us what settings they have chosen?

I hope my explanation was clear enough for you to understand this great East feature.
Thanks for posting. Another way to think of this is the upper frequency controls the shelf (boosting anything below that corner freq) and the lower frequency controls the highpass filter (rolling off the lows below that corner freq). The high pass filter takes out the sub lows and rumble which muddy up the sound and stress the speakers. Increasing the lower setting from 20 to 40 or even 60 for less deep bass would tighten up the bottom. Then increasing the shelf up from 40 to 80 or 100 adds more meat to that all-important first overtone, making the upper bass more solid. I'd be wary of moving that shelf too far into the low mids or you might be swapping rumble for boom. This is a very cool feature for an onboard preamp and might help me at one place I play that takes bass direct to FOH and runs the subs too hot.
 
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Can anyone help me understand the set up used in JPbasses made by Jean-Pierre Ferriera? I just purchased this used JP Naia. Since Jean-Pierra stopped making basses and the website is no more there is not too much I can find out.
I understand it has a John East preamp obviously somewhat older and has some sort of 4 way pickup blend selector switch. As well as pickups made for JPbasses by Armstrong. Any more details will be appreciated. Especially about how this selector blend switch works. Or detail on the jp/Armstrong pickups used at that time.
I also understand that the bass eq is boost only as opposed to cut and boost. Thanks
 
I had my heart set on an EQ-01 for a while, but havent gotten around to getting one.
Today I noticed it isnt available on the East website and the search links are broken.
So I looked on the AC Guitars page and they only sell the EQ-03 and exclusively in their own instruments.

Does anyone know what's going on? Or do these Pre-amps ever show up on the used market?
 
Anybody know if you could install the MMSR 3 KNOB 3 BAND preamp into a bass without a front chrome plate - where the holes for the pots are drilled through wood like a P-Bass or if I'd need to solder in longer pots?
 
John says:
> The threads are all 10mm long allowing plate mount, with nuts behind, or through wooden body, the wood is normally ~6mm thick.

Saves me trying to find a long thread C1M pot in the UK and building my own!
 
Hi

For some weird reason my EQ-001/5 seems to be really sucking the juice out of the battery.

Neither 18 or 9 volts configuration seems to matter.

I've tried a few different batteries.

9V rechargeable ( EBL 6F22 ) wont even activate the preamp even when fully charged to 8.4V.

Alkalines drain down to low voltage ( > 5Vdc )in a few days. ( I don't leave it plugged in ) and it starts to sound
absolutely horrible with distorted wolf-note like distortion following the normal notes

I'm going to get some new alkalines today and measure the voltage when I install one and after it drains to get an idea of how long it seems to take.

I've tried different brands of 9V, even the Ultimate Lithium ones.

Any troubleshooting ideas?

TIA

Just for grins, I'll post this in the ACG preamp thread too. It's sort of buried...
 
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Hi

For some weird reason my EQ-001/5 seems to be really sucking the juice out of the battery.

Neither 18 or 9 volts configuration seems to matter.

I've tried a few different batteries.

9V rechargeable ( EBL 6F22 ) wont even activate the preamp even when fully charged to 8.4V.

Alkalines drain down to low voltage ( > 5Vdc )in a few days. ( I don't leave it plugged in ) and it starts to sound
absolutely horrible with distorted wolf-note like distortion following the normal notes

I'm going to get some new alkalines today and measure the voltage when I install one and after it drains to get an idea of how long it seems to take.

I've tried different brands of 9V, even the Ultimate Lithium ones.

Any troubleshooting ideas?

TIA

Just for grins, I'll post this in the ACG preamp thread too. It's sort of buried...

First thing to check would be the battery ground connection to the jack, to make sure the battery is really being disconnected when the cable is removed.
 
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This is getting sort of funny.

What a clusterfudge!

Had a bad/intermittent ground to jack. Fixed that.

Half of the dual battery box I installed was defective.
Battery in one side wasn't consistently making proper contact.
Bypassed that side and switched to 9V operation which seems to have fixed that issue, for now.

All the batteries I'd been using, while either new or freshly charged showed low voltage when I measured them.
One was 4.5V... Best rechargeable was 8.4V fresh out of the charger.
I didn't use any bargain budget batteries in any of this...

Got a new coppertop, it measured 9.64V out of the package, so we'll see how long that lasts...

The cherry on the sundae is that it seems I have blown out my ancient BD770s which is probably the cause of the distortion.
I need to investigate further, but the wolftones/distorto trails aren't audible when I play thru speakers.
It's possible that I might be overdriving something in my interface's headphone circuit, though...

More investigation today...

Thanks for the help...
 
I did that once, no issues. I've made several online purchases recently from overseas companies, and shipping has always been quick and painless.
 
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Anyone order the pre from England and have any issues getting it delivered to the US?

Asking before I order from the website.
Thanks

Not at all. I just got mine last week from England.
There was an issue but it was irrelevant.
The us postal service (usps) does not have accurate international tracking. I had to be home to sign for it but the tracking number wasnt keeping up with its movement. I got my package but USPS tracking showed it hadn't even reached my regional sorting office yet. The tracking number showed out for delivery 2 days after I had already received it.

Make sure it's what you want too. It doesnt have much character if that's what you're used to. Some may call it sterile. Most pre amps have a touch of distortion. Some are pleasant, some aren't. The uni I bought is the cleanest I've ever heard.
The benifit of being so clean is you get to chose what kind of distortion you like. It works well with tubes. Just running it through different amps really takes on their character as well. It doesnt put out a very round bottomed sound. You'll have to do that with eq and other affects. Think of it as a blank slate to build your sound on.
You may already know this or be going with a different pre. Just figured I'd add my 2 cents while I was posting now that I have had some time with it.
 
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Not at all. I just got mine last week from England.
There was an issue but it was irrelevant.
The us postal service (usps) does not have accurate international tracking. I had to be home to sign for it but the tracking number wasnt keeping up with its movement. I got my package but USPS tracking showed it hadn't even reached my regional sorting office yet. The tracking number showed out for delivery 2 days after I had already received it.

Make sure it's what you want too. It doesnt have much character if that's what you're used to. Some may call it sterile. Most pre amps have a touch of distortion. Some are pleasant, some aren't. The uni I bought is the cleanest I've ever heard.
The benifit of being so clean is you get to chose what kind of distortion you like. It works well with tubes. Just running it through different amps really takes on their character as well. It doesnt put out a very round bottomed sound. You'll have to do that with eq and other affects. Think of it as a blank slate to build your sound on.
You may already know this or be going with a different pre. Just figured I'd add my 2 cents while I was posting now that I have had some time with it.

Thank you!!
 

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