• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The John East preamp club

#305
Well, Ive talked to other owners of Stingrays from this era (2000) and many of them complain of the stock tone quality. Mine is more than that though, so I thought to just scrap it anyway and get an East unit. Probably not much more cost than getting this one repaired.
 
#307
Lockdown Project:
J Retro and new Lindys. Pretty hot signal. Now I've got days/weeks/months to dial it in while we're waiting out the Coronation.
IMG_2103.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: andronik, Ross-te-farian, 4StringTheorist and 4 others
#308
Any grounding "project" advice? Since I picked up the original bass from a junkie acquaintance in the '80's and it already had been modded with EMG active I'll be starting from scratch. Buzzing when not touching, stops on contact. Bridge underwire? Safe place to land it? Anything I need to know?
 
#309
Bridge grounds are a cheap and kludgy substitute for proper shielding. Easier for the manufacturer, but worse for the player in the event of dodgy mains wiring.

Shield it properly.
 
#310
I didn't know this club existed till today! I have a number of East "J" and 'U' preamps. I have been a huge fan till today.

My latest is a J-Tone bought for a project bass. The project started as a want for a GREAT 7.25" radius neck Jazz Bass. What I ended up with was a completed parts bass bought here on TB. The only shortcoming on the bass was the pups which were too polite for my tastes. So I chose Super 55s and a J-Tone as a start point to get it sounding where I wanted it. I have to say installation and setup of the J-Tone are not very intuitive with this one. I had ALOT of trouble getting the pre with Duracell Copper-top battery to install into a Squier body. It's a great ash body, but maybe the route is narrower / shorter than normal. Maybe not, but I had to route the forward ramp plus I had to route clearance a clearance notch for the Mickey Mouse ears treble & bass trim pots. Hookup and internal adjustment layout is not very good on this product - especially the mickey mouse ears. I know alot of people have installed these pres in minutes and I have done so with other East / other brand products. Not this time! If I had it to do again I would have routed a battery box and got it over with. Or bought another J-Retro. Rant over...

Now I have questions. There are several features mentioned on the website and mentioned in the included instructions about swap-able tone caps and boost only / boost cut jumpers. Nothing is explained on how to set up these features. I have a set of small plug in caps with cryptic markings on them. I'm wondering if anybody has played with these features that can offer me some insight on how they are adjusted? I don't want to keep taking it in & out of the bass. It fits so tight that eventually I'm going to break something. Any help would be appreciated.
 
#312
ctmullins said:
Well, it seems to all be documented on his site: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply. I have that document. It came with the preamp. It totally omits information on the boost only / boost cut feature. How do you set it up? It also does not explain what the cryptic writing on the caps mean or what function the cap actually serves. I'm trying to figure this all out so I don't have to keep pulling the pre in & out to figure it out by trial & error. I'm thinking somebody on the site might have already worked it out.
 
#313
BobKos said:
Thank you for your reply. I have that document. It came with the preamp. It totally omits information on the boost only / boost cut feature. How do you set it up? It also does not explain what the cryptic writing on the caps mean or what function the cap actually serves. I'm trying to figure this all out so I don't have to keep pulling the pre in & out to figure it out by trial & error. I'm thinking somebody on the site might have already worked it out.
Click to expand...

Well, you are correct in that there is no verbiage discussing the boost/cut bass setting, other than mentioning it in the list of features. But -

At the bottom of page 1 is a pair of photos of the unit, with the controls labelled.

The second photo shows the underside of the unit, with a black jumper labelled "BASS CONTROL Set Boost/Cut or Boost only". On page three there are three pins indicated at that spot on the diagram (although they're not labelled at all), so the jumper can only be fit in one of two different positions. They might even be labelled in small letters on the circuit board itself, under the jumper.

The location of the tone control cap is indicated at the extreme left of that same photo, called "PLUG-IN TONE CAP". It also appears (and is labelled) in the diagram on page three.

The markings on the different tone caps should follow a standard code, which I don't know by heart, but a quick Google search should be able to locate it. Or you could just email Mr. East.

I think it's a good idea to do a bit of trial and error, to figure out what thumbwheel settings, jumpers, and caps you like best. While you're evaluating, leave the bass on a towel on a table, and leave the J-tone connected but not affixed or fastened to the bass. This should allow free and easy access to the configuration options.

Good luck, and report back!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kubicki Fan, 4StringTheorist and Peter Lufrano
#314
I'm excited to be able to join this club. Have a bass with an alnico Delano MM pickup, and 3 knob East preamp (volume, treble, bass). New to the preamp world, and I immediately see why people love them. Seems like the Mid Sweep control would be a worthy addition.

I'm also curious if passive mode is an option with these. Assuming the preamp would need that switch built into it, but like I said, just curious.
 
#315
Sometimes pre-wired preamps come with a passive switch already, but if not, they're easy to add. It's just a bypass circuit, in which the output from the pickup is routed around the preamp....
 
#316
Also, I'd love to see pics of yours. Most of John's aftermarket preamps use stacked knobs, not single knobs. He does list the SPSM single-knob units, but they're rare.
 
#317
I've recently purchased this: Invalid Link Removed for a new build. If I'm not happy with the controls will a J Retro work with these EMGx pickups?

I already have a J Retro Deluxe with Nordstrand Hum Cancelling on my 5 String Jazz Bass and it's incredible!!

Thanks
 
#318
sheeny said:
I've recently purchased this: Invalid Link Removed for a new build. If I'm not happy with the controls will a J Retro work with these EMGx pickups?

I already have a J Retro Deluxe with Nordstrand Hum Cancelling on my 5 String Jazz Bass and it's incredible!!

Thanks
Click to expand...
I haven't done it personally, but have heard that EMG and the J-Retro do work together well. It may take a little tweaking of the input gain to get the system set to a good, working level.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sheeny
#319
It would be nice to get a chime in from John East. I've never had any luck getting an email response from him. At least perhaps provision of a specification table on the website indicating compatibility would save a lot of back and forth.

Alternatively, the Audere system might be compatible? I'll try them via email in the meantime.
 
#320
Okay, update time. Audere replied to my email and unfortunately it's a no go, however I've now also been exchanging emails with John (Lovely chap by the way), and it seems as though I have to replace 250K Dual Gang Potentiometers with 25K ones. Unfortunately locating a 9mm chassis, 6mm shaft dual gang PCB mount 25K potentiometer is very difficult. I've located some Bourn 20K pots, and am now waiting on advice from John as to their suitability - hopefully it will be ok.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bigtone23 and Peter Lufrano

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back