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The John East preamp club

Interesting that a manufacturer would not be positive about one of their products. I'd be interested to hear what they said. The b-axis are definitely a step in a different sonic direction compared to all of their other pickups (In a good way, IMO).
Here's a copy paste of the reply.
"Sorry man. Not anytime soon. They look so cool but there really are some serious downsides to the exposed poles. The next b-axis pickup that will be released is an MM 5 string in the DL shell. They are proprietary to MTD for the time being"
"The exposed metal can lead to corrosion, and the biggest downside to us is the horrible sound you get if a string strikes one of them."
 
Here's a copy paste of the reply.
"Sorry man. Not anytime soon. They look so cool but there really are some serious downsides to the exposed poles. The next b-axis pickup that will be released is an MM 5 string in the DL shell. They are proprietary to MTD for the time being"
"The exposed metal can lead to corrosion, and the biggest downside to us is the horrible sound you get if a string strikes one of them."

All good points, and basically unforseeable, since exposed pole pickups are such a recent invention of theirs. :rollno:
 
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Here's a copy paste of the reply.
"The exposed metal can lead to corrosion, and the biggest downside to us is the horrible sound you get if a string strikes one of them."
Wow! Yeah, the whole exposed pole thing is a total drag...yikes! I'm off to put some electrical tape on all my other sub-standard pickups. ;)
This thread isn't the place for this discussion, but thanks for the info!!
 
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Here's a copy paste of the reply.
"Sorry man. Not anytime soon. They look so cool but there really are some serious downsides to the exposed poles. The next b-axis pickup that will be released is an MM 5 string in the DL shell. They are proprietary to MTD for the time being"
"The exposed metal can lead to corrosion, and the biggest downside to us is the horrible sound you get if a string strikes one of them."
I found this on their site. I think it has a lot more to do with the exposed poles than "corrosion" ;)

Bartolini Inc. & Nordstrand Pickups Inc. Reach an Agreement - Bartolini Pickups & Electronics
 
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Generally, there is more headroom on tap with 18v. I run my Uni Pre 4 with 9v only due to space limitations in the bass, so I don't know what I'm missing :D. I have plenty of headroom as it is, but if I were to do another build, I would leave room so I could have the option of doing either 9 or 18.
 
I keep hearing the biggest advantage to 18V is when having longer cable runs to the amp or from a heavily equipped pedal board to the amp.

I have one active with 18V and 4 with 9V. 20' is the longest cable I use and a programmable BDDI is my only effect so I don't see (hear) any difference. IME.

One of my 9V preamps is a John East Retro J in keeping relevant to this thread.
 
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I keep hearing the biggest advantage to 18V is when having longer cable runs to the amp or from a heavily equipped pedal board to the amp.

I have one active with 18V and 4 with 9V. 20' is the longest cable I use and a programmable BDDI is my only effect so I don't see (hear) any difference. IME.

One of my 9V preamps is a John East Retro J in keeping relevant to this thread.
You get a little more boost in the signal and it remains very clear sounding when you boost EQ with 18v.
 
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Well, you might think this is silly but I think these preamps are so good they deserve to have a club.

I think there should be a J Retro in every jazz bass and a U retro in everything else. (I'm kidding,.........well, maybe not)

If you love your John East pre chime in. No numbers. Just put a pic of your bass w/ the pre and tell us about your John East preamp pup set up.
MMSR 3 Knob 2 Band preamp with a Nordstrand MM5.2...

It's a 2005 bass, but I was chasing a sound closer to my 1978 Stingray. For the most part, this config does that.

IMG_0675 copy.jpg
 
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Here is a bass I'm considering some John East electronics for. Not sure how the logistics are going to work out... these original pickups were designed for use with a 36v preamp, and I definitely want to keep them in use. The bass is just wired up with a simple passive circuit now... two volumes, two treble roll-offs, and a pickup selector switch... sounds nice and clean, just anemic and weak unless run through an outboard preamp. (it then becomes quite nice) There's plenty of room in the contol cavity... the battery box was made for four 9v cells.

It came with two volumes, two low-pass filters, and two attenuator (Q) switches. I'd like to do something at least true to the spirit of the original design, but more serviceable.

1978 Hyak Scroll-body, long-scale fretless.

Hyak_780502 (angled).jpeg
Hyak_780502 (front).jpeg
Hyak_control cavity.jpeg


Suggestions and advice appreciated and welcomed.
 
Sign me up for the John East preamp club!

Installed a J Retro flat-response preamp into my bass today.

Man, to me, the combination of the J Retro and the Nord Vintage 70s wind is quite sweet. It's really taken this Mike Lull bass to a new level of tone. I didn't want to stop playing it tonight!
 
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I got a Bass with an East 3-Band Pre in it and it has these two white-ish trimpots on the module connected to the treble pot. Is there anyone who can tell me any information on these? They look different from the preamp modules i found online. Thanks a lot!
 

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I got a Bass with an East 3-Band Pre in it and it has these two white-ish trimpots on the module connected to the treble pot. Is there anyone who can tell me any information on these? They look different from the preamp modules i found online. Thanks a lot!
If you mean those white rollers, the ones on mine set the range of the bass eq that you want boosted, or the cutoff frequency of treble. Mine is the unipre, so may be different on yours
 
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