Does anyone have a source for the micro screws for the solder less connectors for the East pre? I have a couple missing from a build and I spun the amazon wheel and the ones I ordered are way too big.
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The John East preamp club
- Thread starter datsaxguy
- Start date
You can get a replacement terminal block for <$1 at Digi-key or Mouser electronics. Email John, tell him what you need to do and ask him the brand and model of the terminal so you know you are getting the correct screws. Let us know how that works out.
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I am now a fan of John East preamps, I just replaced my Sadowsky M5-24 with a John East Uni-Pre and its awesome. The old preamp sounded very 1 dimensional and scooped but the uni-pre just opens up a whole new world. The tonal flexabilty is massive. Its was worth the extra money and I would highly recommend it to anyone with a M5-24.
Hi Guys,
I've just bought a new John East Uni-Pre 4 knob preamp and a new set of Fender Ultra noiseless gen 4 pickups for my 2006 Victor Bailey Jazz V.
If I want to have a pro do that work for me it would cost me about 200$ in my area.
I have never done such a job and have no experience in soldering, shielding and grounding jobs... But I'm a fast learner.
I'm considering replacing the pickups and the preamp myself.
Is it realistic for me to think I could do that properly?
What tips could you give to me? Any advice on what I'd need to do that job properly would be greatly appreciated.
Also: my bass has a 18V battery compartment. The preamp only comes with one 9 V battery snap connected I think. How do I have to wire all that in order for the pre to operate on 18V?
Cheers!
I've just bought a new John East Uni-Pre 4 knob preamp and a new set of Fender Ultra noiseless gen 4 pickups for my 2006 Victor Bailey Jazz V.
If I want to have a pro do that work for me it would cost me about 200$ in my area.
I have never done such a job and have no experience in soldering, shielding and grounding jobs... But I'm a fast learner.
I'm considering replacing the pickups and the preamp myself.
Is it realistic for me to think I could do that properly?
What tips could you give to me? Any advice on what I'd need to do that job properly would be greatly appreciated.
Also: my bass has a 18V battery compartment. The preamp only comes with one 9 V battery snap connected I think. How do I have to wire all that in order for the pre to operate on 18V?
Cheers!
Very realistic. I have a unipre 4 knob, and I think I only had to solder the ground wire.
I shielded my bass with that adhesive-back copper foil. Super easy.
Forgot about the 18v... Over never done that, but I don't think it's hard... Lots of YouTube videos about that, I bet
Hey,
I've just finished installing my Uni-Pre 4 Knob. It sounds fantastic.... But I only get sound in passive mode!
No sound when the tone Knob is pushed (active mode).
When I installed the pre I wired it in order to use it with 2 x 9V batteries (my 2006 Fender Victor Bailey Jazz Bass V has a 18v stock pre-amp) and I guess I must have done something wrong.
I urgently need some help.
Thanks in advance.
Best regards.
I've just finished installing my Uni-Pre 4 Knob. It sounds fantastic.... But I only get sound in passive mode!
No sound when the tone Knob is pushed (active mode).
When I installed the pre I wired it in order to use it with 2 x 9V batteries (my 2006 Fender Victor Bailey Jazz Bass V has a 18v stock pre-amp) and I guess I must have done something wrong.
I urgently need some help.
Thanks in advance.
Best regards.
I am considering the 4 knob uni-pre for a custom bass build. Does anyone know how much current the system draws? I'm hoping to be able to power it with a fishman fluence universal rechargeable battery pack:
https://www.fishman.com/portfolio/universal-rechargeable-battery-pack/
Apparently it has short circuit protection at 10mA current draw. Is that sufficient?
https://www.fishman.com/portfolio/universal-rechargeable-battery-pack/
Apparently it has short circuit protection at 10mA current draw. Is that sufficient?
I'm still in a pickle with this John East MMSR preamp. Several folks have tried working on it to no avail, the last guy had it three weeks and couldn't get in touch with John, and he hasn't responded to any of my emails.
I contacted the place I bought it from, they are telling me only John is really capable of repairing his preamps. They are attempting to contact him on my behalf, but at this point I'm thinking of buying an Aguilar and scrapping the East pre.
Mini rant, it seems no one in my area is capable or wants to work on this thing. I thought these were plug and play, but it's been plug and PAY lol........
Anyone else make a pre with a sweepable mid control? That's what I really wanted, I have a Skjold with a hybrid East with sweepable mids and I love it!
Yeesh I'm not having much luck with my first foray into active preamps with both Michael Pope and John East missing in action. I've had no response from either of them. I just hope they are both OK.
Yep the flexibility of the uni-pre with sweepable mids and internal trim pots to set bass and treble frequencies is a big plus for me and I haven't found anything else out there quite like it. Open to suggestions.
What is wrong with the preamp. I've sent stuff to John for repair. Easy process.
I'm sure your experience is completely the norm. 2020 has completely changed international shipping (at least for me in all my little hobbies). I'm not sure why he isn't responding to email and hope he is okay!
My East pre (which was purchased new 4 years ago when this build started) has been on no less than 6 benches since January of this year. The first guy (who installed it) had it working, but the mids and mid sweep were inoperable. That was a non starter for me, the entire reason I wanted this pre was for that function.
I'll report back in here if the retailer gets any response from John. Keep thy fingers crossed, I really want to hear this pre!
Here's a pic, a great looking bass with many years at various luthiers getting it to this point. Yes, it started out as a 500 dollar bass, but I've had it for years and enjoyed playing it, so I wanted to "Ritterize" it lol.....
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Well the retailer got in touch with John and he sent me mailing instructions to send the preamp back to his shop for repair!
So appreciate of the efforts on my behalf, now I take it apart and install it on a template to ship it home to England!
So appreciate of the efforts on my behalf, now I take it apart and install it on a template to ship it home to England!
Try and talk me out of it!?!?!
I picked up a great sounding/playing/looking 74 Jazz bass earlier this year and have been smitten with it. The previous owner installed a John East pre, and I really have no complaints other than I've never really been sold on active pre's. I'm a passive Pbass guy at heart so all these knobs, switches and twiddling potential don't really do anything for me. I like to plug in, turn up and play! Also, it's aesthetically all wrong for this bass. It's shiny, new, with stacked chrome knobs. It looks out of place on this bass!
Thankfully, the previous owner kept the original pots, knobs and plate which he shipped along with the bass when I got it. Im seriously considering wiring this thing back up with a true to original set up and selling the John East to someone that may appreciate it more. Anyone care to talk me out of it????
I picked up a great sounding/playing/looking 74 Jazz bass earlier this year and have been smitten with it. The previous owner installed a John East pre, and I really have no complaints other than I've never really been sold on active pre's. I'm a passive Pbass guy at heart so all these knobs, switches and twiddling potential don't really do anything for me. I like to plug in, turn up and play! Also, it's aesthetically all wrong for this bass. It's shiny, new, with stacked chrome knobs. It looks out of place on this bass!
Thankfully, the previous owner kept the original pots, knobs and plate which he shipped along with the bass when I got it. Im seriously considering wiring this thing back up with a true to original set up and selling the John East to someone that may appreciate it more. Anyone care to talk me out of it????
Man do whatever you like. Brilliant thing about the J-retro is it's no mod preamp. So you can stick one in a 61 jazz and not worry about anything.
Nah, you sound like a reasonable guy that can make up your own mind.
I will say that should you restore the bass to original, you won't have any trouble selling that John East preamp. Heck, I'd consider buying it and I don't even have a bass to put it in!...
.I do have a J Retro preamp in a Mike Lull Jazz-style bass and along with the Nordstrand Vintage 70s Wind, it's magic!
Horses for courses. P guys who don't like active electronics are already well out of their comfort zone with an active J.
I have a J Retro with some 9J1 Barts in my 72 J and love it. It's been in there for about 18 years and has started to patina a bit like the original hardware. Mine has black knobs, so it's not so odd looking when compared to the traditional black plastic J knobs. I could probably take it out and rough up the plate and knobs a touch to really look 48 years old.
The cool thing is I can ape a pretty good P tone live via soloing the neck pickup, boosting a little mids and cutting a little highs with the J Retro.
John East
Commercial User
Hi Jeff, since you explained your situation here I thought I'd come on and respond, trust that's OK with the moderation, there are rules for those with commercial involvement, of course.
My original thought was to get up to speed with the whole thread and then respond accordingly, but going through everything just wasn't an option. I've failed that mission several times but would really like to respond and help clarify any tech issues, directly, if that's workable.
> I thought these were plug and play, but it's been plug and PAY lol........
Your system would have been plug and play out of the box Jeff, but it seems someone saw fit to make some mods in removing the volume control flexible connector but didn't add a bypass wire in place of the volume, so the signal chain was broken on the bass/treble circuit board. I'm assuming the target was to make the system active/passive?
The good news is that I checked the bass/treble circuit and the sweepable mid, stand-alone, and they both function. So if you confirm the final config, we can help piece it back to workable for you.
