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The Modified BEAD 4 String Bass Club

Has anyone used D'addario EXL160BT for B standard tuning? Gauges 120-90-67-50. Seems kind of light but on a 35" bass w/ hex cores it might work. Was going to use DR high beams 125-105-85-65 if those were too loose.

I use standard 105-45 strings tuned to D most of the time, so the ~50lb tension figures they give on the back of the 160BT box seem kind of crazy
 
I am using lighter gauges, but not those strings, because I need steel for my monkey acid sweat hands. I just got some La Bella RX-S5A to try out, and they're decent tension, but I might go up just a bit to a 120. I had some DR Hi Beams, 125 B, just before that that felt a bit too heavy for my tastes. Still experimenting, trying to find the sweet spot...
 
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Asked this question on regular TB..maybe someone on here will answer. What B string can I buy that wiould be compatible with the Fender 58 tapewound strings that I prefer? Don't want to buy a set of fivers and then not need them

Thanks..Bob
I just bought a 5 set. That left me with a full EADG set I used next time I needed strings.
 
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Thanks. Will be better DDT 65 (.065-0.085-.105-.125) or use 4 strings from DDT 5-55 (.075-0.95-.115-.135)?
All else being equal (using the same brand/model strings they should be), the thicker strings will have higher tension at the same pitch. The thinner strings may be a bit floppy. As much as I love Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats, the B seems a bit floppy to me on a 34" scale bass. They don't make one bigger than 130. (130 may be fine with another brand/model.)
 
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Thanks. Will be better DDT 65 (.065-0.085-.105-.125) or use 4 strings from DDT 5-55 (.075-0.95-.115-.135)?


I used to use the 125s, I'm a mega EB cobalt flats fanboy now though. Don't knock flats until you've tried those!! This is what they sound like for me:

 
Interesting thread! I haven’t read through the entire discussion yet, so apologies if this has already been addressed. I’m curious if anyone has tried a light-gauge 5-string set that doesn’t require modifying the nut slot. This would be more of an experiment for me, so I’d prefer not to alter the bass unless I’m confident it’s something I’ll stick with.
 
Interesting thread! I haven’t read through the entire discussion yet, so apologies if this has already been addressed. I’m curious if anyone has tried a light-gauge 5-string set that doesn’t require modifying the nut slot. This would be more of an experiment for me, so I’d prefer not to alter the bass unless I’m confident it’s something I’ll stick with.

SL, it's not necessary to read the entire thread unless you just want to. Many finer points points are distilled into the BEAD 4-String Bass wiki. Specifically, see the How To section.
 
Interesting thread! I haven’t read through the entire discussion yet, so apologies if this has already been addressed. I’m curious if anyone has tried a light-gauge 5-string set that doesn’t require modifying the nut slot. This would be more of an experiment for me, so I’d prefer not to alter the bass unless I’m confident it’s something I’ll stick with.

SL, it's not necessary to read the entire thread, unless you just want to. Many finer points are distilled into the BEAD 4-String Bass wiki. Specifically, see the How To section.

My first experiment with BEAD was using a spare set from my 5-string bass with zero bass alterations. Yeah, the B-string sat a bit high on the nut. But it was experimental! It worked out SO well I converted my #1 Jaguar bass, #2 P-Bass Special and (finally) my #3 Starcaster short-scale all to BEAD with slight alterations. My Starcaster, with bridge-cable sized strings, is now my #1!!!

PSX_20200930_064738.jpg
 
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Interesting thread! I haven’t read through the entire discussion yet, so apologies if this has already been addressed. I’m curious if anyone has tried a light-gauge 5-string set that doesn’t require modifying the nut slot. This would be more of an experiment for me, so I’d prefer not to alter the bass unless I’m confident it’s something I’ll stick with.
It's not complicated to swap over, and you can throw standard gauge strings back on with no ill effects... I scribble on the bottom of my nut slots with a pencil, and I wrap a piece of like 600-800 grit sandpaper around an E string, and saw at it. I use an E for the B slot, A for the E slot, etc., just using whatever strings were on it. I make sure to not deepen the slots though, that's what the pencil mark is for.

Honestly bass manufacturers could sell every single bass with fatty nut slots and call them all "BEAD compatible" or something
 
All else being equal (using the same brand/model strings they should be), the thicker strings will have higher tension at the same pitch. The thinner strings may be a bit floppy. As much as I love Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats, the B seems a bit floppy to me on a 34" scale bass. They don't make one bigger than 130. (130 may be fine with another brand/model.)
Interesting... I use cobalt flats in A# on two of my basses and they feel pretty good to me, that demo I linked is in a sharp. Hex cores are usually pretty stiff IMO
 
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It's not complicated to swap over, and you can throw standard gauge strings back on with no ill effects... I scribble on the bottom of my nut slots with a pencil, and I wrap a piece of like 600-800 grit sandpaper around an E string, and saw at it. I use an E for the B slot, A for the E slot, etc., just using whatever strings were on it. I make sure to not deepen the slots though, that's what the pencil mark is for.

Honestly bass manufacturers could sell every single bass with fatty nut slots and call them all "BEAD compatible" or something
Thanks, your explanation for how you sand the nut was helpful. I’ll give it a try.
 
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All else being equal (using the same brand/model strings they should be), the thicker strings will have higher tension at the same pitch. The thinner strings may be a bit floppy. As much as I love Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats, the B seems a bit floppy to me on a 34" scale bass. They don't make one bigger than 130. (130 may be fine with another brand/model.)
I'm asking about this because I know that DDR has thicker core than other strings. Ideal feel of B string for me is .130 Roto 77 flatwound. I'm wanting rounds with same stiffness.
 
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All else being equal (using the same brand/model strings they should be), the thicker strings will have higher tension at the same pitch. The thinner strings may be a bit floppy. As much as I love Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats, the B seems a bit floppy to me on a 34" scale bass. They don't make one bigger than 130. (130 may be fine with another brand/model.)
I take that back about floppiness. That was when I tuned to ADHC (since all my other basses are normally DGCF). I’ve retuned to BEAD and there’s no floppiness.
 
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