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The Official MARUSZCZYK CLUB!

This was a great morning! I received the couch shot for my 30" Cazpar and I also received the couch shot for my 32" Jazzus that I was not expecting for at least another month or so. :hyper:

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Hola everyone,
I recently received a used Mensinger Cazpar 4. I picked it up from a London seller for about $950. It is a beautiful bass made in 2010 and I love its tone and pickup configuration. I am having one big problem with it. There is a nasty high pitched buzz on the G string (and sometimes the D string) from about frets 3-10, right in the sweet spot. I took it to a local luthier and had it set up. He was able to tame it somewhat but it's still there and I'm not sure he knows what to do about it. He told me the relief from the truss bar is bowing the neck inward in a different location that he is used to seeing in a bass neck: I think he said it is bowing further up. He set it up as low as possible to get rid of the buzz, but he can't seem to eliminate it altogether. So now what should I do? My only ideas are to 1. contact Mensinger and see if they can provide support, or 2. see if the problem relates to the zero fret. Since this is the only bass that I have with a zero fret. I am thinking maybe it's too low at the nut and perhaps I should see if there is a way to raise it (with a shim) or replace it with an actual nut. I am not a guitar tech, just a guy who has gained some knowledge along the way. I really want to make it work because as I said, it is a beautiful guitar at a great price (especially given that it is a very hard to find short scale lefty). I want to keep it. Anyone who can help I would be very very grateful.
If the problem is frets 3 - 10, it can't be the 0 fret.
 
Hola everyone,
I recently received a used Mensinger Cazpar 4... I am having one big problem with it. There is a nasty high pitched buzz on the G string (and sometimes the D string) from about frets 3-10, right in the sweet spot. I took it to a local luthier and had it set up. He was able to tame it somewhat but it's still there and I'm not sure he knows what to do about it....

Since this is the only bass that I have with a zero fret. I am thinking maybe it's too low at the nut and perhaps I should see if there is a way to raise it (with a shim) or replace it with an actual nut.
Can you determine if the buzz is between the fretted note(s) and the nut/zero fret? Sometimes the nut slot height is too high and a touch with a file will help.
If the problem is frets 3 - 10, it can't be the 0 fret.
A nut filed too high might cause playability issues, but not buzz (edit: except as noted below by @Ralph Manak). A nut that's filed too low? Well, no such thing really, unless the slots are filed so low that the integrity of the nut is compromised. That's the whole point of a zero fret -- since it's just one more fret on the neck, the arc of the frets is really easy to predict and adjust with precision, so the only job of the nut is to keep the strings in alignment. The elevation of the strings is already handled.

If I was in this position and that was my bass, I'd take it to an experienced guitar tech who has a PLEK machine. I have a bass with a bit of a ski ramp on the treble end of the fretboard that made it unplayable for the last few frets. A PLEK job was able to overcome the warp in the neck. It had to remove most of the fret material on the last couple of frets, but it became a fully playable instrument.
 
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A nut filed too high might cause playability issues, but not buzz. A nut that's filed too low? Well, no such thing really, unless the slots are filed so low that the integrity of the nut is compromised. That's the whole point of a zero fret -- since it's just one more fret on the neck, the arc of the frets is really easy to predict and adjust with precision, so the only job of the nut is to keep the strings in alignment. The elevation of the strings is already handled.

If I was in this position and that was my bass, I'd take it to an experienced guitar tech who has a PLEK machine. I have a bass with a bit of a ski ramp on the treble end of the fretboard that made it unplayable for the last few frets. A PLEK job was able to overcome the warp in the neck. It had to remove most of the fret material on the last couple of frets, but it became a fully playable instrument.

With a zero fret, a nut slot that's too high can cause a buzz at the zero fret (the string does not have adequate downward pressure on the zero fret), and that buzz sounds from behind the nut. I could be wrong—I'm interpreting three instances over the years. It seems a cousin of the usual reasons a string retainer is sometimes needed.
 
With a zero fret, a nut slot that's too high can cause a buzz at the zero fret (the string does not have adequate downward pressure on the zero fret), and that buzz sounds from behind the nut. I could be wrong—I'm interpreting three instances over the years. It seems a cousin of the usual reasons a string retainer is sometimes needed.
That's true.
 
This was a great morning! I received the couch shot for my 30" Cazpar and I also received the couch shot for my 32" Jazzus that I was not expecting for at least another month or so. :hyper:

Those look great!

What was your expected turn time if one showed up a month early? I was quoted 20 weeks for a guitar, which was great, but wasn't realistically hoping to see anything for at least 30.
 
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This was a great morning! I received the couch shot for my 30" Cazpar and I also received the couch shot for my 32" Jazzus that I was not expecting for at least another month or so. :hyper:

cpwz44g.jpg


PC3ayru.jpg

Please let me know how you like your Jazzus. I'm intrigued by the body shape and am considering a 32" fiver. Plus, the Jazzus has the best-looking headstock shape out of all of the Maru basses.
 
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Please let me know how you like your Jazzus. I'm intrigued by the body shape and am considering a 32" fiver. Plus, the Jazzus has the best-looking headstock shape out of all of the Maru basses.

If it matters, you can configure a given body shape with a different headstock shape. I and a few others here have done it. Here's a Frog body with a Cazpar headstock:

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Well, the wait begins. Something like this is coming at some point:
View attachment 5197485

24 frets, 9,5" radius, Alder / Maple (with graphite), Pau Ferro fretboard. Customizations are removal of the P-pickup and just one volume as electronics. So only a single passive J at the bridge. The reverse headstock was a last minute add, just to make it a bit different - I'll count it as a subconscious tribute to Dusty Hill and my old Hamer 5-string.

It's really hard to find a "basic" P-style bass with 24 frets and a standard radius. I did find a cheap Jackson used about a year ago that has 24 frets and "so so done" compound radius, which is ok but GAS got the best of me finally. :D

Getting close to half point of the wait soon. Interesting to see how it turns out. :)
 
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Please let me know how you like your Jazzus. I'm intrigued by the body shape and am considering a 32" fiver. Plus, the Jazzus has the best-looking headstock shape out of all of the Maru basses.

Mine has become my number one for everything. I'm not terribly a fan of how they look in pictures (on a stand, for instance) but they look great in person.

Great balance, mine is super light, lighter than some of my semi-hollows. Easy upper fret access, gets lots of compliments on the look and sound in a variety of genres.
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Those look great!

What was your expected turn time if one showed up a month early? I was quoted 20 weeks for a guitar, which was great, but wasn't realistically hoping to see anything for at least 30.

The Cazpar was a bit longer wait at 24 weeks and The Jazzus is at 16-17 weeks from ordering. I was quoted 16-20 weeks when ordering each of them :cool:
 
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Mine has become my number one for everything. I'm not terribly a fan of how they look in pictures (on a stand, for instance) but they look great in person.

Great balance, mine is super light, lighter than some of my semi-hollows. Easy upper fret access, gets lots of compliments on the look and sound in a variety of genres.
View attachment 5290721

That's a very good looking bass. What scale length is it? Can you explain the controls?
 
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It's 34", pretty narrow string spacing (16 or 17mm, can't remember).

I'm usually running sound, dealing with the client, and doing musical director functions, so the controls are set up to be stupid simple.

Volume, tone, 3 way switch, humbucker series/single/parallel. Helps me dial in tones fast without knob twisting. Both pickups are in their respective traditional sweet spots.

Need a Pbass? Flip
Need a MM? Flip
Doing the modern full range sound? Flip

Edit- forgot to mention the single coil setting on the MM is the back coil, so I can approximate a PJ.

Tone knob to taste between warm and bright.
 
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Can you guys weigh in whether I should go with a 12" on 14" radius? I can't imagine there's a huge difference and it's probably a personal preference thing.

Personally I wouldn't go below a 14" radius unless you can get pickups with a custom curvature to the pole pieces. The 20" radius is pretty flat and is a great radius if your using Nordstrand Zen Blades
 
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